Getting through prop shafts

I was looking at a landy for sale and the chap who owns it says that because of the 2.5" lift kit it puts extra strain on the prop shaft and i would have to replace one more regular than i would have without the lift. Firstly i guess i can understand the extra tension caused but what do you guys do to combat this?

Buy some ROCOL MT-LM Assembly Paste.

Basically it is a MOLY GREASE, but uses a mighty 60% molybdenum disulphide in the brew.

Insert a goodly blob of this into each of the cups of the UJ as you assemble the joint.

It's miraculous stuff.

It is also quite expensive but I have heaps and heaps here in 4-ounce tubes.

CharlesY

So moly lithium stuff is actually better than straight LM then CharlseY?

Does that follow for wheel bearings too or is LM better to use there?

Cheers,

why not just buy a double de cardon, and do the job properly

or reduce to 2" would be better. you should be ok at 2". also. if you dont plan on doing much offroad i wouldnt worry. you only push the ability of the props/UJ's when your pushing the articulation of the axles. if your only going to be doing a day or 2 a month i wouldnt worry. esp. if its only crap flat rolling green lanes.

G

Ill probably get crucified for saying such a thing but i only really want one to have as a Project for saturday afternoons and a Fishing vehicle.. The Mrs throws a wobbler when i get the Mazda seats covered in Mud & Maggots Or worse still sunk to the axles in a muddy orchard especially as its new

i would deff not worry about it then props are what £80-100? you may go through one every few years with little light offroad use. you can always replace the UJ parts rather than the prop which is where most of the problems occur.

if your not bothered you could remove the lift kit all together and run it as standard. dont be fooled into thinking 90/110 are better offroad with a lift kit. they work remarkably well as standard. you will also see a vast improvement in the road handling ability.

then you can kindly sell the lift kit to me

G

Adz said:

So moly lithium stuff is actually better than straight LM then CharlseY?

Does that follow for wheel bearings too or is LM better to use there?

Cheers,

Click to expand...

Rocol MT-LM is an assembly paste.
It does what it says on the tube, and then some.
It "plates" the metal surfaces with molybdenum disulphide, and stops metal-to-metal contact when the normal lube film hasn't got there yet or breaks down.

Every time I assemble an engine, or other moving parts of cars, I use the stuff sparingly on every moving part, especially bearing shells, cam followers, and so on. I do NOT use it on pistons, as the grease-drag might make starting up harder.

Moly is the prime ingredient of Rzeppa joints - the CV joints of modern cars. NO other lube medium can hack the stresses.

It means the rubbing parts are protected for a good long time as you start her up, and then once it's up and running the molybdenum disulphide powder lube is carried through the whole engine with the oil for the rest of that oil's time in the motor.

Now, the rate of movement in UJ trunnions is slow, but the pressure on the parts is extremely high. This is when Moly-Grease really shines. I think you could expect to double the life of any UJ assembled with this stuff, especially if you don't find time to apply a grease gun ever again!

In wheel bearings, the situation is different, because the grease is intended to warm up (get quite hot) and then to melt to some extent, which causes it to flow around the bearing and do the lube job as well as carry heat away from the bearing to the hub.
Rocol MT-LM alone would not flow well enough to do that, so I use a little of it on assembly to get some moly in there, and then pack the bearing as normal with nice best quality yellow grease.

That's what I do.

CharlesY

Cheers CharlseY - that's a crackin' post.

wouldnt ms grease do the same job?

The Mad Hat Man said:

wouldnt ms grease do the same job?

Click to expand...

Basically, ANY grease is always better than NO grease.

After that it's a question of degree - and sometime good judgement.

For example, I know of a case where a guy was stuck in a petrol-engined vehicle, due to a holed sump - ALL the oil had run out. He fixed the hole with some sort of epoxy putty stuff, but had no engine oil. He filled the sump up to the mark with diesel fuel. Not great as an engine oil, but a thousand times better than NO oil. The vehicle was driven out, about fifty miles. Sump drained, new pan, filled with proper oil, and that was that - no harm done. And yes, it WAS a LandRover, an army one, low compression head, and was driven gently till it reached safety. The oil light stayed OUT all the way, so he told me.

In molygreases, the thing is to find out what percentage of MoS2 (molybdenum disulphide powder) is used in the grease. As far as I know, Castrol MS3 'Moly grease' is about 3% MoS2 added to a lithium based grease. This will make it a very good grease for all general uses, and maybe even some extreme appliications. Rocol MT-LM is not meant to be used as an ordinary grease, being 60% MoS2. It is intended as an assembly paste, to provide maximum protection of vulnerable moving parts in the first seconds of starting up an engine or machine after a build or rebuild. Then the residual moly mixes into the general lube oil and helps things along.

UJ's are different. There's so little space in them, and no way normal greases can "flow" as they will in wheel bearings. So, the best lube is the one that can deal with the worst excesses, and that's where Moly comes in, and the more the better.

Castrol MS3 will do just great in UJs , and better than any ordinary yellow general purpose grease. It's just that a blob of Rocol MT-LM might do a bit better when you assemble the UJ, after which you grease it as normal.

The great thing about Castrol MS3 is you can get it into a grease-gun. MT-LM doesn't like that idea. Like me, it's too thick.

CharlesY