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Redoin

New Member
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3
Anyone have experience in fitting Disc brakes to a 69 swb SII (petrol)?
I know there are kits for £500 but are they worth it!
I will be upgrading the 2.25 lump (carb,head,exhaust,etc).

Also the wheel studs fitted are two different sizes not just front/rear
but on the same axle I had to buy two sets of locking wheel nuts! can they be made all the same size?
 
Possibly one Rover flange and one Salisbury flange on end of halfshaft? Or maybe lengths different? Before removing studs, screw nut on before 'removing' (usually with hammer) from flange as you may want to re-use stud - screw nut face flush with end of threads (or very slightly proud) to prevent 'mushrooming' of stud. RR studs bigger? I seem to remember a similar problem many years ago on a vehicle (22/27mm(roughly!)) with odd nuts - ignored/accepted it as it was a 'scrapper' with holy axlecasings
Handy helpful 'Heath Robinson' tip - when fitting new studs to flange w/o access to air tools - light oil, clean surfaces and spacer between nut and flange on stud. also a friend operating a hammer on the stud face (rear) while you turn nut will ensure it's fully seated (rather than possibly going slack later) - 'air-gun' does basically the same job but most people don't have these (cue BIG grin from those of us who have the luxury of being smiled upon by Comp-Air, the god of compressors!;) )
Check specs(does parts manual include stud/nut specs?) - Think there are two RR stud specs but unsure about LRs.
 
Oops - almost forgot - check lwb for bigger drums (better performance) - Santana disc conversion kit was lauded as excellent. At £500, suggest looking for a RR with sound chassis & running gear (and sh*t body for cheap price), cutting it down to 88" to fit and enjoying the luxury of coil springs. Of course, chassis may need patched around vin stamp area, but usually the same area of your leafer is sound metal...
 
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