Series 3 Gearbox oil change top cover?

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neilc75

Active Member
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Location
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I'm doing a complete oil change on a series 3 gearbox so I know I need 1.5l , is it a good idea to put it directly in the top after removing the metal disc , I understand how topping up could be a problem and how the side fill would be beneficial in these circumstances because you don't know what's in there , however surely for a complete change you could use the top fill ?
 
neilc75 said:
I'm doing a complete oil change on a series 3 gearbox so I know I need 1.5l , is it a good idea to put it directly in the top after removing the metal disc , I understand how topping up could be a problem and how the side fill would be beneficial in these circumstances because you don't know what's in there , however surely for a complete change you could use the top fill ?
Click to expand...
you cant fill through the to square tin plate, and 3s dont have the top filler, the side filler is also the level plug it must be full enough so it runs out of there
 
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After my 400 mile land rover trip I have suddenly developed an issue with the gearbox , I understand that it is difficult to diagnose remotely , however if I describe the symptoms any help would be appreciated. I drove 200 miles with no issues however whilst I was away I could hear what I would describe as a flutter under the vehicle when driving up hills ,this would stop if I went into neutral or accelerated. I assumed this was something flapping under the vehicle . The noise was heard a few times , however was very faint , I drove home yesterday (over 200 miles) and there were no issues .

I had to make a short journey back out yesterday and the gearbox although still working now makes a noise in 1st , 2nd , 3rd which sounds like a playing card in bmx spokes , as I say it still performs as it should . im hoping that it just needs the gearbox oil changing ,Im assuming that this is the easiest and cheapest first step . If ive driven with zero oil in the gearbox will I have automatically killed it or could it be salvaged with a oil change (don’t worry I would sue , just asking your opinion).

Just really hoping that from past experience that someone would have had the same issues.

Thanks for your continued support.
 
Or the prop shaft UJ, mine did that as in i had the same kind of noise that at first felt like it was coming from the gearbox or tunnel, mine got worse on RH bends and it would stop if i put the clutch out. your initial description of something flapping about underneath sounds familiar.
I also first went through the gear box scenario.
Does it do it in neutral on a roll?
I think it would be worth crawling underneath and taking a good look ( hold and shake) of the rear prop shaft
 
I'll have a look tomorrow , if I put clutch down it stops , doesn't do it in neutral on a roll , have a good new year all , thanks
 


Ok , here's the link to a video I made this morning of the issue , most noticeable at about 1:00 , I'm also now having a further issues where after starting it splutters and shakes , uj joints seem ok , it still drives but there is an initial tinny sound when idling , so only the 3 issues now !
 
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Is that the noise still following changing the gearbox and transfer box oils , at low revs my diesel shakes a bit I raised the tick over to get round it
 
No , I haven't touched it yet , there were a few suggestions that it might be the UJ so I thought I'd send a link and see what people thought before I did anything
 
Last edited:
is the overdrive in or out?
that sounds like it's in the drive train... or a CV joint
it really does remind me of my problem, the clatter i can hear has a low tempo so it's in time with revolutions of the wheels.
I ultimately found my cause by jacking up the vehicle and turning the wheels by hand until i found that grinding spot where in neutral i rotated a back wheel so it revolved the prop shaft.
Think along the lines that the revolutions in the gearbox are high and any real damage in there will sound like the end of the world and have a high clickety clackety sound, propshaft or something transmission related like in the vicinity of the transmission brake brake will have lower thunk chunky sound.

So does the sound change when your in 4wd, high or low?
Could you disconnect the rear prop shaft and drive on just the front? and is the sound still there.
I'll dig up my photos of my prop shaft damage to help

oh and happy new year
from the Alps
 
here ya go ...
with the prop on the car it was not obvious ... until i got it off
 

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Ok , it doesn't have an overdrive , it did but it was removed before I had it , I haven't even tried it in low/high 4 wd so that's an idea , I'll have another look , nothing obvious on propshaft on first inspection , thanks for your help , I do hope that it's something similar , there's isn't a year goes by (said on 1/1/19!) Where I don't think , "that's it , it's finally dead , it's got to go ".
 
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Ok , so just to get this straight (its me not you!) if I jack the back up , put it on axle stands , and put something down to prevent it rolling and take the handbrake off I should be able to spin the propshaft by turning the rear wheels , if it makes the same noise then this is a good thing as I have isolated the issue , then I should take propshaft off and spin by hand to recreate noise and replace either the whole propshaft if im feeling lazy or replace UJ ?

Thanks for advice , I have already figured out the background "tinny" noise , it was of course the very old exhaust rattling so I am getting somewhere ,
slowly!


Simon Perks said:
is the overdrive in or out?
that sounds like it's in the drive train... or a CV joint
it really does remind me of my problem, the clatter i can hear has a low tempo so it's in time with revolutions of the wheels.
I ultimately found my cause by jacking up the vehicle and turning the wheels by hand until i found that grinding spot where in neutral i rotated a back wheel so it revolved the prop shaft.
Think along the lines that the revolutions in the gearbox are high and any real damage in there will sound like the end of the world and have a high clickety clackety sound, propshaft or something transmission related like in the vicinity of the transmission brake brake will have lower thunk chunky sound.

So does the sound change when your in 4wd, high or low?
Could you disconnect the rear prop shaft and drive on just the front? and is the sound still there.
I'll dig up my photos of my prop shaft damage to help

oh and happy new year
from the Alps
Click to expand...
 
neilc75 said:
Ok , so just to get this straight (its me not you!) if I jack the back up , put it on axle stands , and put something down to prevent it rolling and take the handbrake off I should be able to spin the propshaft by turning the rear wheels , if it makes the same noise then this is a good thing as I have isolated the issue , then I should take propshaft off and spin by hand to recreate noise and replace either the whole propshaft if im feeling lazy or replace UJ ?

Thanks for advice , I have already figured out the background "tinny" noise , it was of course the very old exhaust rattling so I am getting somewhere ,
slowly!
Click to expand...
jack up only one rear wheel
 
I spent a very unpleasant test drive thinking my newly rebuilt gearbox was failing then found the tunnel hitting the O/D gear lever. We've all been there, a recent engine noise tunred out to be a loose bonnet. Changing the UJs is a very quick job once the prop is off. A vice and some old sockets is all you need.
 
ill see what I can find out ,I might take the tunnel off whilst having a drive , ill definitely turn rear wheels and try and recreate the noise , ill also check loose bonnet , you never know.
 
Ok , so the new year starts with New frustrations , I've raised the front and wheels and rotated them and the noise doesn't happen , as discussed I'll remove the tunnel soon as get someone to look at the gearbox whilst I'm driving , also I'll probably change the gearbox oil and see if it helps.
 
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