Galvanised chassis / bulkhead treatments

cowasaki · Nov 13, 2013

I had a medium term plan to buy a new galvanised chassis plus either a new galvanised bulkhead or a decent bulkhead and strip it back, chemically clean it and have it galvanised.

Once this is done I plan the paint it so read with interest the T wash stuff here : Knowledge Base, Preparation and Painting of Galvanised Steel - HMG Paints Limited as pointed out by another thread when I did a search. I would then be painting the chassis semi gloss black and the bulkhead I would want to have body colour. Once the chassis is completely painted I want to internally wax it.

Then I have the external metal work: a winch bumper, tree sliders, light covers and a rear fitted light bar.

So,

If I pay to have the external metal work chemically dumped to remove all the paint what is then the best route...... Galvanising, treating and painting or powder coating?

Can you powder coat something that is first galvanised?

How good a finish do you get on the bulkhead if it has been galvanised first?

How much is it likely to cost to have the metal work chemically stripped and powder coated? and any recommendations in the north west?

Any suggestions re galvanised bulkheads and chassis?

Grit Valve · Nov 13, 2013

cowasaki said:
I had a medium term plan to buy a new galvanised chassis plus either a new galvanised bulkhead or a decent bulkhead and strip it back, chemically clean it and have it galvanised.

Once this is done I plan the paint it so read with interest the T wash stuff here : Knowledge Base, Preparation and Painting of Galvanised Steel - HMG Paints Limited as pointed out by another thread when I did a search. I would then be painting the chassis semi gloss black and the bulkhead I would want to have body colour. Once the chassis is completely painted I want to internally wax it.

Then I have the external metal work: a winch bumper, tree sliders, light covers and a rear fitted light bar.

So,

If I pay to have the external metal work chemically dumped to remove all the paint what is then the best route...... Galvanising, treating and painting or powder coating?

Can you powder coat something that is first galvanised?

How good a finish do you get on the bulkhead if it has been galvanised first?

How much is it likely to cost to have the metal work chemically stripped and powder coated? and any recommendations in the north west?

Any suggestions re galvanised bulkheads and chassis?

get it sandblasted galvanised re- blasted lightly to form a good key use etching primer then paint other wise paint doesn't stick very well to galvanising .

Expect the bulkhead to slightly warp if galvanising .

Thor1950 · Nov 13, 2013

Grit Valve said:
get it sandblasted galvanised re- blasted lightly to form a good key use etching primer then paint other wise paint doesn't stick very well to galvanising .

Expect the bulkhead to slightly warp if galvanising .

Thought a acid like t-wash, do you not remove some of the galvanize doing that?

Grit Valve · Nov 13, 2013

Thor1950 said:
Thought a acid like t-wash, do you not remove some of the galvanize doing that?

Depends how good you are!
What pressure you use and what media .
People like you are used to blast it to ....
And run.

divie · Nov 13, 2013

Please avoid powder coating. Once it gets slight damage the water gets in unseen and starts the rot process you are trying to avoid. Also fasteners sometimes do not tighten well due to the soft nature of powder coating.

Thor1950 · Nov 13, 2013

Grit Valve said:
Depends how good you are!
What pressure you use and what media .
People like you are used to blast it to ....
And run.

Grit never doubted your expertise at all. I just have never heard of that before.

New trick for a old dog comes to mind. Hope you did not take offense to me asking?

Grit Valve · Nov 13, 2013

Thor1950 said:
Grit never doubted your expertise at all. I just have never heard of that before.

New trick for a old dog comes to mind. Hope you did not take offense to me asking?

I've always got you in attack mode that's all :d

As above powder coating Is crap

Don't know what's wrong with good old primer and paint , paint these days can be a struggle to remove its far better than the old cortina days

Thor I forgot to say galvanise has a smooth finish not good for paint a light tickle creates a profile for paint to grip,we often profile galvanising for body shops .

Thor1950 · Nov 13, 2013

worked with galvanized in the Navy Doing sheet work, and ducting systems. A real bitch to tig the joints

Grit Valve · Nov 13, 2013

Thor1950 said:
worked with galvanized in the Navy Doing sheet work, and ducting systems. A real bitch to tig the joints

I think its good for new chassis and .....
Lamppost's look at a 10 year lamp post they are bare not painted

cowasaki · Nov 14, 2013

Grit,

Would I need to blast the chassis if it is new? Is it the fresh blast that provides the key? I really just want semi gloss black for everything.

The bumper, tree sliders, roll cage style light bar, rear light bar and light covers can all be powder coated which should provide a good few years protection.

This is all for rust proofing as I really don't like shiny chassis and bulkheads! I plan on replacing anything made of steel with an anti corrosion version as they go. I've just fitted a pair of 2011 doors which I'm led to believe are galvanised or anti rust treated (I got them a month ago or so and they still had the delivery blocks attached - thanks to the Mexican military's requirements for bullet proof ones

)..... I'm planning on replacing the safari door with a galvanised one as well and I've replaced several ancillary bits with galvanised as well.

Grit Valve · Nov 14, 2013

cowasaki said:
Grit,

Would I need to blast the chassis if it is new? Is it the fresh blast that provides the key? I really just want semi gloss black for everything.

The bumper, tree sliders, roll cage style light bar, rear light bar and light covers can all be powder coated which should provide a good few years protection.

This is all for rust proofing as I really don't like shiny chassis and bulkheads! I plan on replacing anything made of steel with an anti corrosion version as they go. I've just fitted a pair of 2011 doors which I'm led to believe are galvanised or anti rust treated (I got them a month ago or so and they still had the delivery blocks attached - thanks to the Mexican military's requirements for bullet proof ones )..... I'm planning on replacing the safari door with a galvanised one as well and I've replaced several ancillary bits with galvanised as well.

It really is the best way for paint to grip galvanising can be a bugger to paint and weld . Personaly I would leave it bare , but if you really want it all black then yes make sure the company use a product called garnet , not shot! And a very low pressure around 30 psi explain in no circumstances you want the galvanised removed , and that all you want is a profile .

trax · Nov 14, 2013

is it not safer and easier to use t wash?

Grit Valve · Nov 14, 2013

trax said:
is it not safer and easier to use t wash?

Nothing unsafe about it if you know what your doing

Its a bit like sugar soaping a door or sanding it down properly want to do it in half's go ahead .
Galvanising isn't for painting look at lamp posts farmers gates garage doors. Sheep cages I could go on and on....

trax · Nov 14, 2013

Grit Valve said:
Nothing unsafe about it if you know what your doing

Its a bit like sugar soaping a door or sanding it down properly want to do it in half's go ahead .
Galvanising isn't for painting look at lamp posts farmers gates garage doors. Sheep cages I could go on and on....

btw, i meant safe as in not blasting too much galv away.. not h&s bull

shame we have so many thieving scrotes, i like the look of galv.

Turboman · Nov 14, 2013

Grit Valve said:
Nothing unsafe about it if you know what your doing

Its a bit like sugar soaping a door or sanding it down properly want to do it in half's go ahead .
Galvanising isn't for painting look at lamp posts farmers gates garage doors. Sheep cages I could go on and on....

I agree entirely with your previous posts, and know that you know your stuff about this.

However, just to play devils advocate, I might just mention that in some
conditions, such as wet salty West Kernow, bare galv.is quite badly affected by salt, a bare galv gate doesn't have the lifespan here it would inland. Pylons here are painted on a schedule to protect the galv from the air!
When there is road salt in use I have noticed a browny crust forming on galv bits, which is why I paint my rock sliders etc.
Ive never been lucky enough to have a brand new galv. chassis to play with, but if I did I think I would paint it black, if only for the sake of original appearance.

Grit Valve · Nov 14, 2013

Turboman said:
I agree entirely with your previous posts, and know that you know your stuff about this.
However, just to play devils advocate, I might just mention that in some
conditions, such as wet salty West Kernow, bare galv.is quite badly affected by salt, a bare galv gate doesn't have the lifespan here it would inland. Pylons here are painted on a schedule to protect the galv from the air!
When there is road salt in use I have noticed a browny crust forming on galv bits, which is why I paint my rock sliders etc.
Ive never been lucky enough to have a brand new galv. chassis to play with, but if I did I think I would paint it black, if only for the sake of original appearance.

True salt is a killer but washed off diluted should not cause to much grief after the winter months .

Next time you see some one with one ask em how long it's been on .

Galvanised chassis / bulkhead treatments

cowasaki

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Grit Valve

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Thor1950

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divie

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Thor1950

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Thor1950

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cowasaki

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trax

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trax

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Grit Valve

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