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Freelander1 TD4 Fuel Economy

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Kenwood1957, Mar 6, 2011.

  1. Kenwood1957

    Kenwood1957 New Member

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    Hi all - I'm a newby so please be patient.

    I have had my TD4HSE for 5 months. Had previously put disappointing MPG down to mainly urban driving but, on recent trip to French Alps cruising at 70-75MPH on motorways, only got 32 MPG based on odometer. Fear that in reality slightly less. Car has done 50K. I have read about replacing the MAF with Pierburg, about the synergy 2 from Rover Ron and about his Mafam. Have also read about cleaning the EGR valve etc.

    My question is really about what sequence of things to try. For example, is it worth changing the MAF without getting a Mafam or synergy2? Should I clean the MAF sensor and EGR first and see how that goes? Just don't want to jump into high costs without making sure I try other avenues first.

    Thanks in anticipation.
     
  2. RichM

    RichM Well-Known Member

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    First problem is 70-75mph. Sure, the Freelander can do it easily thanks to the TD4 engine. However, poor aerodynamics will mean that it will come at a price. (I.e. increased fuel consumption) There's a reason why hatchback and saloon cars have completely different design characteristics when compared to 4x4s. The figures speak for themselves. The Freelander TD4 has a combined average of 37mpg while the BMW E46 320d saloon (same engine) can achieve a combined average of almost 50mpg. The BMW isn't that much lighter either.

    I rarely drive more than 60 mph and when I do, I find myself filling up more often. Imo, the best thing you can do is to drive it as though you were driving a bus. Same advice can apply to all 4x4s. That should prevent you rolling it while navigating corners, and it will also reduce your fuel bill too!
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2011
  3. jdunkers

    jdunkers New Member

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    you have to change how you drive to get a reasonable mpg mate.mines a td4 auto i only drove like a nutter once and i thought i had a fuel leak.like richm says 60-65 mph and you get a good return.i did a 140 miles yesterday with a car full of passengers and used 1/4 tank.not that bad
     
  4. Blippie

    Blippie New Member

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    What tyres do you have and what pressures were they running at? How many times was the pressure checked on the journey?

    Cheers

    Blippie
     
  5. Chaser

    Chaser New Member

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    No need to start replacing parts that aren't faulty. 50k miles so should just have had a major service, if not get it done. Clean and disable EGR, clean inlet manifold if you wish, it can only be an improvement. Keep tyres at 30psi cold.
    Auto should return mid 30s cruising, manual box should get high 30s.
    Synergy 2 will be a good move for performance and will eek out another mile or 2 when going steady. Don't bother with the Pierburg maf.
     
  6. Kenwood1957

    Kenwood1957 New Member

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    Thanks for your replies guys. I understand about the nature of the car and aerodynamics etc but, if chaser is right in that it should do 'late 30's' when cruising (and I have read other posts indicating higher MPG), then I did not achieve anything like that. Can confirm tyres were at 30 psi. and that I drive very gently.

    Obviously, if anyone has any other thoughts these would be welcome.

    Otherwise I will take a look at the EGR and inlet manifold first and see if that makes any difference and will let you know.

    Cheers.
     
  7. Kenwood1957

    Kenwood1957 New Member

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    Oh, and have failed to say that it's a manual.
     
  8. Bromsgrove Defender

    Bromsgrove Defender Well-Known Member

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    Editted to make the point that you may well think you drive gently but you already said you were driving at 70 + :rolleyes: :D
     
  9. vic.middleton

    vic.middleton Active Member

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    And remember the VCU dissipates energy, the faster you go the more it uses.
     
  10. Kenwood1957

    Kenwood1957 New Member

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    Hey Bromsgrove Defender - are you seriously suggesting that, in a Freelander TD4, doing 70-75 mph on motorways is less than gentle. This cruising speed is at 3,000 rpm - no where near the red line - and, in my experience, well within the comfort zone of a modern 2 litre diesel.

    Why you should connect this to me 'red lining' at gear change is beyond my understanding - I operate within the lower end of the revs range in general day-to-day driving.

    Bottom line is, should I reasonably expect anything more than about 34mpg combined and 32mpg on long run at these speeds? (Driving sensibly and never going anywhere near the red line).

    If my expectations for something better are unrealistic that's fine. If not, I would like to know what I might do to improve things.
     
  11. Bromsgrove Defender

    Bromsgrove Defender Well-Known Member

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    YES

    I was making a point, how the hell do I know how you drive.

    Have a look here Compare Land Rover Freelander 2 engines and performance | Land Rover UK

    Without wishing to come across as rude/r the certainty is it's either the car or you ;) :D
     
  12. TD John

    TD John New Member

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    When we first got our '06 TD4 Manual we drove down to the Alps @ between 70-80mph - certainly cleaned out the system but slashed the MPG.
    Now always drive under 70mph and get reasonable MPG - seems to get thirsty @ >3000rpm. ;););) combination of horsepower needed to accelerate the brick.
    Then did the EGR bypass and noticed the extra bottom end oomph.
    Started running with Millers in every fill - gradually more oomph.
    Then a Synergy2 - instantly more oomph and better MPG.
    Current set-up encourages a lighter right foot as it all gets going quickly and you can change up earlier and run lower revs for the speed - all helps eek out the MPG. :):)
     
  13. RichM

    RichM Well-Known Member

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    Ok so in summary, if you want better MPG:

    - Get a full service done
    - Reduce your cruising speed to 60-65mph tops. (It may seem like a pain to be doing 60 mph instead of 70 mph but do the maths and you will see that it typically won't pay to drive at 70 mph. More often than not, the time savings are negligible and the increase in fuel consumption is significant)
    - Change gear at low revs and keep revs to a minimum overall
    - Invest in Synergy2 for better improvement
    - Ask your mrs to lose weight

    And remember: It is not a Toyota Prius. - But that's something to be thankful of, right?
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2011
  14. Kenwood1957

    Kenwood1957 New Member

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    Hi all

    many thanks for your constructive and helpful replies.

    As a LR first timer I now recognise that it is in part about me needing to watch top speed and pursuing some of the car related things you describe.

    Cheers
     
  15. Spacemonkey...

    Spacemonkey... Well-Known Member

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    Wow. I thought the TD4 was supposed to be an improvement in mpg, but my L series gets 42mpg brim to brim on 205/80 16 AT tyres at 30psi. I do stay at 60-65 if I can though, and most of my driving is on long A roads around the Cotswolds stuck behind the 40-50mph brigade..
     
  16. nickcc

    nickcc Well-Known Member

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    Used to have a 200 TDI Discovery that did no more than 25 mpg, so a TD4 auto FL1 doing 34 mpg makes a nice change.
     
  17. Storeton Woods

    Storeton Woods New Member

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    My 2002 TD4 (manual box) does 37 mpg spot on at a steady 70 to 75mph on a 92 mile round trip each day Merseyside to Manchester. If I take it up to 80 it drinks a LOT more. Although I agree that dropping back your speed will help to reach those better MPG figures I still think you might expect better than you are getting at the moment. My guess would be that something is not quite right but I will leave that to the experts on here to speculate what that is. One thought - next time you finish a longish trip, just touch your hand on each of the tyres and wheel rims in turn and see how hot they are. They should be nicely warm to the touch. If any of the tyres are running hot then something is binding and your breaks may need adjusting. Cheers Paul