ran out of diesel, first time EVER! after that during two weeks it started as normal then one day after doing a bit of shopping, came out and it wouldn't start. turned over as normal but just wouldn't start. for some reason it did finally start. the following day when i went to start the car it turned over but wouldn't start. there was the sound of the pump but NOTHING! had it towed to the garage who did a thorough check and found everything, according to the computer and parts of the system they were able to check manually, like pressure from the pump, diesel arriving, etc,ok. they tried it with the starter pilot and it fired up immediately! turned the engine off and wouldn't re start. they then pushed the car to see if it would start and it fired after two meters!! they're good mechanics, honest, and said they were baffled! they called landrover who suggested perhaps it was an electrical conflict with the starter motor and the engine which they've seen before. they said they changed the starter motor and it worked! somebody else suggested, because i ran out of diesel, it could be the catalyst converter if indeed it has one. if it was the catalyst converter, would it start by pushing or using the starter pilot? any ideas before i BUY a starter just to see if it is that??
Other freelander diesel 2.0 won't start
- Thread starter gaznco
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,097
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
What year is your car?
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,910
The cam position sensor doesn't always through a fault code, and is a common failure. Also the crank position sensor. Another one was the coolant temp sensor, unplug it and see if it starts.
Sometimes it's just the spade connectors on the starter.
Mike
Sometimes it's just the spade connectors on the starter.
Mike
thanks mike. i'll have fun putting that in french but i'll get through it. the idea of pushing the car to start and using easy start to start, which both works perfectly, does that give you an indication that it could be the spade connectors? also, why would it start and run perfectly when NOT using the starter? if the crank and cam selector being defective, would that not allow the engine to start even though it runs perfectly when starting other than traditional method of a starter? can we undo all the sensors to see if the car starts?
gaznco
gaznco
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,910
Crank sensor is only used for starting, unplugging it will just stop your car starting!
Cam sensor usually stops a warm engine from starting, unplugging it will not work.
Easy start seems to negate these problems for a while until the sensor packs up completely.
My money's on the cam position sensor, but that's just my opinion and I'm not near the car, so take it with a pinch if salt
Mike
Cam sensor usually stops a warm engine from starting, unplugging it will not work.
Easy start seems to negate these problems for a while until the sensor packs up completely.
My money's on the cam position sensor, but that's just my opinion and I'm not near the car, so take it with a pinch if salt
Mike
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,097
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
The car's electronics work by the sensors telling the ECU at what angle/temp etc the engine is at - the ECU uses that information to then tell the injectors when to 'open' (ie start allowing fuel into the engine) and for how long - if the sensors arn't working - the ECU may not be telling the injectors to let wany fuel into the engine.... When you spray Easy Start - it gets mixed with the air being sucked into the engine... therefore it will always start if the engine turns over (with a diesel if there is fuel in the engine it will run - it is not like a petrol engine that also requires an electrical spark).
One (at least) of the Freelander engines uses different sensors for starting the engine and once it has started - eg it uses the cam sensor to start and the crank sensor when running. I can never remember which engine it is and which order they are used. But it would explain why the engine would not start - but will continue to run once started. Is it the TD4?
I'm not sure why a push/bump start would start the car when the starter motor will not - could be a failing starter as LR suggested - ie it is interfering with the ECU.
My money is currently on the Cam sensor - but I wouldn't bet to much!
One (at least) of the Freelander engines uses different sensors for starting the engine and once it has started - eg it uses the cam sensor to start and the crank sensor when running. I can never remember which engine it is and which order they are used. But it would explain why the engine would not start - but will continue to run once started. Is it the TD4?
I'm not sure why a push/bump start would start the car when the starter motor will not - could be a failing starter as LR suggested - ie it is interfering with the ECU.
My money is currently on the Cam sensor - but I wouldn't bet to much!
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,097
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
Odds on the cam sensor are dropping, anyone else wanting to bet on it should get in quick!
hey guys, i so appreciate the reply's!!!!
anything is a shot so, i'm thinking, change the cam sensor; expensive?
at the same time check and clean up all contacts to and from starter.
with that try starting with the coolant temp sensor connected and disconnected.
if the above doesn't work, get another starter and try.
sound reasonable......anything else?
gaznco
anything is a shot so, i'm thinking, change the cam sensor; expensive?
at the same time check and clean up all contacts to and from starter.
with that try starting with the coolant temp sensor connected and disconnected.
if the above doesn't work, get another starter and try.
sound reasonable......anything else?
gaznco
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,910
If you buy a cheap sensor you will end up where you started in a month or so time.
Look for an OEM part, around £100 give or take.
Mike
P.S it's a TD4 engine
Look for an OEM part, around £100 give or take.
Mike
P.S it's a TD4 engine
Lowbank
Active Member
- Posts
- 317
- Location
- Burnley, lancashire
What about the HPFP o ring, thats been the root cause of a few peoples troubles on here recently and at £8 it would be first replacement as its the cheapest.
the pump has been checked out on the computer and comes up perfecct. remember, it does start whrn pushed a very short distance and also whn using easy start. the consensus of opinion points to a magnetic field protection that is worn in the starter motor confusing the electronics which i'm going to check first.
thanks for your imput and that has been added to the list!!!
thanks for your imput and that has been added to the list!!!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
The pump O ring splitting would cause this issue and won't show up on a diagnostic check. If the O ring splits, there's no high pressure fuel, so it won't fire, unless lots of cranking has taken place, and still it might not start. My money is on that pesky little O ring.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,097
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
Does the fuel rail not have a pressure sensor in it? If the pump were not supplying enough pressure, could you not tell from this?
Lowbank
Active Member
- Posts
- 317
- Location
- Burnley, lancashire
Several people have reported similar issues with no codes and its been the pesky o ring. As I said at £8 I would just fit one to elminate it.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
Maybe, if it is running. If the engine isn't running, there's no fuel pressure.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,097
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
Fair enough, but if it is cranking there must be fuel pressure or else it would never start.
