Freelander Clutch options

Its getting to that stage where my hippo needs the clutch roller bearing changed so might as well fit a new clutch at the same time.

Quoting from the MAD HAT MANS thread 'frequently asked questions' 08/01/07

"There is a Land Rover TSB which mentions a heavy duty clutch for all 1.8P and 2.0D models, "available in limited numbers", "for vehicles used in arduous conditions", part number UQB100770L Clutch Plate - Heavy Duty. It is not listed in the standard parts catalogue so I don't know the price. You have to prove you really really want and need it before LR will fit it under warranty as its a 4.4 - 5.1 Hour fit depending o*n engine type. -- JE Engineering do heavy duty clutches for the Freelander -- Can't be certain, but I reckon the 2.0 TD clutch will fit the 1.8 Petrol without a problem, and it has an extra 13mm diameter o*n the friction plate. Cover plate is the same part number, as is the release bearing. Rover 220 Turbo uses the same size friction disc, but probably with heavier springs. If you wanted to go wilder, look at the Rover 825 V6 2.5i 24V from 96-99 (The Rover years!) uses the same cover plate and release bearing but had a different friction disc (no details)"


Would be interested if anyone has further info on heavy duty clutches,

Were they fitted to commercial vehicles as standard?

What are the alternatives (red print)?

Also got some pics thanks to G13SJC, Instead I am going to jack up the front of the hippo and drop the engine.

Cheers

did i say that? crikey!

Priced the Heavy duty clutch £72 + VAT dealer price

Still deciding if it would be worth it,

Does anyone know if a different clutch cover or stronger springs would need to be fitted for the heavy duty clutch?

Finally got around to fitting the new clutch, hope you find the pics of interest.

The hippo is jacked up high to drop the engine, German MG enthusiasts do the same for the MGF (DIETERS website). A strong cross member is needed to take the weight of the vehicle.

Its not a job for the faint hearted and I still have to offer up the block to the gearbox bell housing this evening.

Note the wooden cradle for supporting the engine, it has two scissor jacks underneath for moving the block into position.

Sorry pic of the uprated heavy duty clutch and original item. At 64k miles the old clutch was still in good shape but replaced it along with the release bearing which was really the only trouble.

Note the broader diameter of the new clutch and heavier springs

Finally got the engine block back into position, I had real problems getting the bell housing bolts to line up.

The problem was a flimsy flywheel shield at the rear of the bell housing. It had bent silly.

When I removed this shield the engine literally fell in to position,

some pics of the offending item plus another pic of the DIY jacking cradle that raised the engine back into position so easily

thats a good write-up LR - spesh with piccies. Pity we dont get more like that.

The Mad Hat Man said:

thats a good write-up LR - spesh with piccies. Pity we dont get more like that.

Click to expand...

Thanks MHM, apologies for the quality of the pics but it gives you an idea.

I agree with MHM, great to see some pics and job descriptions.
Great job!

aussielander said:

I agree with MHM, great to see some pics and job descriptions.
Great job!

Click to expand...

Cheers Aussie!

Saved around £400 - 600 labour costs in the process.

By fabricating a cradle I was able to slide the engine out and then back in again no problem.... handy if you dont have an engine hoist.

If you look at the pics in the top post from G13SJC.... I dont even think that my garage rafters would be tall enough for clearance of the hoist over the front valance.

excellent post and very informative...well done!!
im thinking of this heavy duty clutch upgrade after seeing your post
im so impressed.
which is the easiest method of clutch replacement, is it drop the engine or drop the box and associated off?
love your posts by the way...

crusher said:

excellent post and very informative...well done!!
im thinking of this heavy duty clutch upgrade after seeing your post
im so impressed.
which is the easiest method of clutch replacement, is it drop the engine or drop the box and associated off?
love your posts by the way...

Click to expand...

Thanks, but I cant claim any credit for the idea. G13SJC was the first to post pics of the engine removed without the gearbox. Mad Hat Man has also posted pics of the KV6 engine (no longer in possession of) which was dropped with gearbox attached. German MG enthusiats do the same for the MGF which has the k-series shoe horned into the engine bay.



I would say its 6 of one, half a dozen of another.

You only need simple tools and supports to drop the engine. Gearbox removal is more manual handling of the heavy stuff and you'll be on your back the whole time

For the engine out job:

Drain coolant into a basin
Undo inlet manifold bolts
disconnect electrics and diagnostic wiring plug
remove air filter housing
remove power steering pump & bracket
remove alternator (optional, just gives a bit more space)
Remove exhaust downpipe
Undo lower IRD to sump engine mount
Undo bell-housing bolts on gearbox to engine
Undo upper tie bar engine mount
Remove engine

For gearbox and IRD removal:

Drain IRD oil
Drain gearbox oil
Remove left and right driveshafts (seals need replacing on refit)
Remove IRD to Prop shaft flange bolts
Undo lower IRD to sump engine mounts
Remove IRD to gearbox bolts (Oil seal needs replacing on refit)
Remove IRD
Undo bell housing bolts from gearbox to engine
Remove air filter housing
Undo gearbox mounting (not pleasant task)
Remove gearbox

Nice posts there

how long does it take from start to finish?

richtd4es

Richtd4es said:

Nice posts there

how long does it take from start to finish?

richtd4es

Click to expand...

Cheers, For the engine out it was an estimated time of 8 hours, this was a couple of hours in the evenings, over several days. I also had the timing belt off and re-sealed cam carrier rack, plus some tweeking with the thermostat.
My neighbour who is a Ford mechanic, helped with the latter stages of refit. An extra set of hands and eyes is a bonus, but can be done single handed. It was him who realised that the shield was fouling on the bell housing and preventing the block from sliding home. This was because he is a typical mechanic and didnt mind rolling around on his back to have a look see, I didnt want to spoil my biege slacks (tractor boys joke about Freelander drivers) It was an early hours of the morning job that night....... but now I am aware of it, shouldnt be a problem next time.

I did spend a while fabricating an existing wooden trolley to make an engine cradle so as to lower the engine. A hydraulic pallet truck, or trolley jack with pieces of wood with also do the job. The two car jacks allow for precise movement on the horizontal plane, as well as vertical plane, plus the swivel wheels allow movement in any direction, front back, left right etc
With the versatility of the cradle it means that you can square off the block to gearbox at any angle with minimum effort, I removed the block single handed.

The k-series has a flat bottomed sump so will sit on a piece of wood. It is front heavy and will tip unless supported under the oil pump. Last thing you want is the radiator getting crushed by the engine.

LR dealers qoute around 6 hours labour time for standard gearbox/IRD out.

Clutchdust who is a trained LR technician has reported removal and refitting of gearbox/IRD method in 2hrs.

I assume you have the Td4. Not sure if anyone has removed the Td4 block whilst Jatco gearbox remains in the engine bay. This could be your opportunity to shine

this was a really good fred north irish earth person , and pics as well , this is wot is needed. . . . .

Just had a new clutch assembly installed in my Freelander. 2.0 XEDI

Contacted my local dealership and was quoted £820.00, When I picked my self off the floor I contacted my local village garage ( Fixes anything that has an Engine)

Removed the old unit and installed the new unit in under 3.5 hrs total cost £215.00 .

The labour was £100.00 and the Clutch kit £115.00 including the VAT. The car is working fantasticly, am I sticking with this new Mechanic? ........BlO**Y right I am.

Pat