freelander 1

hi i have just swopped my tyres front to rear ,they are general grabbber at and only 4 months old the difference in tread depth is minimal (less than 1mm ) you could get more than this with pressure difference , but i know how you guys think about this ,and would appreciate any comments . i just want to wear all 4 the same so next time i change (if i still got it ) i can go to more road bias .

You know the rulez - less worn on the back - or at your own risk!

yeah i know the rules but will 1/2 a mm make that much difference you could get more than that on a long run with a slow puncture

Don't I know it! Cost me my transmission!

I don't think you'll get anyone saying "Yeh, she'll be right" (queue all the posts!) even if they are thinking it.

What I'm thinking is that you might be alright, but having got that particular T Shirt, I wouldn't do it.

If the VCU is new then it's more forgiving of slight tyre differences. However as it ages, it slips less easily and so transfers more torque between axles. This is why the newer tyres must go on the rear. For the sake of a few mm of tread, is it really worth risking an expensive IRD or diff?

Thanks for the replies i have swopped them back again ,i didnt think that it was that critical to 1/2mm tread maybe not even that ,but as you say nodge68 not worth the risk and grumpygel got the t- shirt .Once again thanks .

Since 99.9% of owners get new tyres fitted to the front It probably isn't that critical but having said that my new purchase has only 115k but the VCU had a 1WU time of 3 minutes.
Funny old thing but the service history shows new front tyres at 60k miles. After sorting the VCU I'll check the tyres and put the biggest diameter ones on the back.

Got a similar issue just had 2 new tyres on the front and the back are very good. Since I had them fitted I gave a winning sound which sounds like coming from the back at around 30 mph which wasn't there before. I have changed them for the back I e. Back now on front and vica versa but the winning noise has gone from at 30 to constantly between 50 and 70 and a lot worse. I'm going yo change them back tomorrow but why would this be. Possible cheapest first and try VCU bearings. All this just after I finally got the issue with low revs fixed. Ron box did the trick!

yantojarc said:

Got a similar issue just had 2 new tyres on the front and the back are very good. Since I had them fitted I gave a winning sound which sounds like coming from the back at around 30 mph which wasn't there before.

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The Freelander MUST have the same tyres all round, so don't buy odd pairs. Also new tyres MUST go on the rear.

The Freelander is generally pretty robust, but it's critical that tyres are identical, same make, same type, with the newest on the rear.

yantojarc said:

Got a similar issue just had 2 new tyres on the front and the back are very good. Since I had them fitted I gave a winning sound which sounds like coming from the back at around 30 mph which wasn't there before. I have changed them for the back I e. Back now on front and vica versa but the winning noise has gone from at 30 to constantly between 50 and 70 and a lot worse. I'm going yo change them back tomorrow but why would this be. Possible cheapest first and try VCU bearings. All this just after I finally got the issue with low revs fixed. Ron box did the trick!

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If not already done then do the one wheel up test urgently. If you don't resolve this quickly the results could be fatal for your car.

I'm hoping it's not the VCU as got a receipt when I bought the car from Bell Engineering for Recon VCU and car only done 800 miles since replacement. Changed the Diff oil yesterday and also found that it looks like the rear near side wheel bearing has some play so will look to change. Also managed to get a good look at vcu bearings and def need replacing. This will probably explain the slight vibration under the front seats..... Does this all make sense and add up? Also a slight rapping sound from engine which may just be normal diesel sound but is there any additive to reduce the noise, I've already given it a filter and oil change with castrol magnatec 10/40 when it was on offer?

You can't assume the refurbed VCU is still on the car so for the sake of 5 minutes..........
Jack up one rear wheel and check it can turn relatively easily with a wheel brace on one of the nuts. If you can turn the wheel it's probably OK.

yantojarc said:

I'm hoping it's not the VCU as got a receipt when I bought the car from Bell Engineering for Recon VCU and car only done 800 miles since replacement. Changed the Diff oil yesterday and also found that it looks like the rear near side wheel bearing has some play so will look to change. Also managed to get a good look at vcu bearings and def need replacing. This will probably explain the slight vibration under the front seats..... Does this all make sense and add up

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Did you even read what I said about tyres? The FL1 MUST have identical tyres, or the AWD system will be overloaded and damaged. Your vibration under the seat is suggesting the VCU is transferring torque when it's not supposed to.

Hi Midge 68 I fud read and noted your advice as you seem to know what you talking about. I've check the tyres and the new ones are exactly the same height and size as the ones not changed if looks like they were brand new when I hit the car, I've even done the test with a plank of wood on top of the tyre. The VCU bearings are shot as the rubber is nearly out on one. I will also test the Vcu. Bell engineering are out of the quality bearings any other good and reasonable soyrc

Nodge68 I have ordered 2 more of the same make and size tyre as you suggested. Sorry for the misspelling of your name on my previous reply.. Predictive text! Hopefully that and the one wheel up test will put all right...

yantojarc said:

Nodge68 I have ordered 2 more of the same make and size tyre as you suggested. Sorry for the misspelling of your name on my previous reply.. Predictive text! Hopefully that and the one wheel up test will put all right...

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The one wheel up test is just to see if your VCU is OK or not. If not it must be removed asap or you could face a VERY big bill.

Testing the Vcu today, how much pressure should it take for the wheel to move?

yantojarc said:

Testing the Vcu today, how much pressure should it take for the wheel to move?

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You should be able to turn the wheel slowly with resistance but without having to force it.
The proper test is to put a 5kg weight on the end of a 1.2m pole pivoting on the centre hub nut and record the time it takes to go from 45 deg to horizontal. Any more than 2 mins and your VCU is over tight. Any more than 3 mins and you should remove it immediately.

Well good, and bad news. Tyres changed new tyres same make all the way around and noise gone! Tried the one wheel up for vcu and don't think hercules could turn the wheel so new VCU and bearings from Bell Engineering on the way. Thanks for all your help....

yantojarc said:

Well good, and bad news. Tyres changed new tyres same make all the way around and noise gone!

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I don't like to say I told you so, but I told you so.

yantojarc said:

Tried the one wheel up for vcu and don't think hercules could turn the wheel so new VCU and bearings from Bell Engineering on the way.

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Sounds like a plan.

Come back to say how you got on.