Freelander 1 td4 clutch and dmf

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Jimbob1

Jimbob1

Member
Posts
30
Location
Derbyshire
Hi all
Td4 120K miles. Clutch slipping every now and then. Only done 40K since clutch and dmf both done.
Was thinking of changing on the drive. Done several fwd clutches but not LR.

Whilst getting quotes i spoke to local garage, seemed good but ive not used them before as i do all the work myself.

They said i would need to match the clutch make to the dmf i.e. need to both be same brand. Has anyone come across this before? Is it true?

He also suggested i do a conversion kit if dmf knackered rather than replace dmf.

Whats everyone's thoughts?
Cheers
Jim
 
Test the DMF when it's in bits, before deciding if it needs replacing.
LUK clutchs are good and one of LRs suppliers.

I can't see it makes any difference who makes the DMF or clutch, as long as they are of OE quality.
 
Alibro's list of things to do is pretty comprehensive and it can be done on a level driveway with some decent weather. The main difference from doing a FWD clutch is that the IRD has to come out to get to the gearbox mounting bolts. To get the IRD out you have to get some subframe bits out of the way and then the IRD and the gearbox are both really heavy and you need some means of supporting them as they come out.

There are a couple of stages where a second person is really needed - spotting from above what has jammed when you are trying to get the gearbox out past the suspension and handing you the bolt when you are trying to bench-press the IRD back into its place for example. A constant supply of coffee and sympathy also helps when trying to get the top IRD bolts out or in - they are really inaccessible and I used every extension bar that I own plus some borrowed ones and snaked the thing past the suspension, through the right wheel arch, under the turbo and over the top of the IRD and then lined everything up by touch. You are working from under the car between the engine and the bulkhead and once you have a hand in there, you can't see what you are doing. A wobble joint or two in the snake of extensions helps a lot too.

Getting the front of the car as high as possible is essential as is lowering the gearbox end of the engine as far as you can - there is very little room to get the gearbox out and any extra elbow room that you can give yourself is valuable. Changing the clutch is the easy bit and I can't see any reason why you might have to match it to the DMF. My local garage quoted "£1,000 at least, it depends how many bits are stuck" which I think translated as "unless you do it yourself, the car isn't worth it".

So not a minor project, allow yourself lots of time and I wouldn't recommend doing it in January as I did but very satisfying when you start it up, let out the clutch and it lives again!
 
blodge said:
Alibro's list of things to do is pretty comprehensive and it can be done on a level driveway with some decent weather. The main difference from doing a FWD clutch is that the IRD has to come out to get to the gearbox mounting bolts. To get the IRD out you have to get some subframe bits out of the way and then the IRD and the gearbox are both really heavy and you need some means of supporting them as they come out.

There are a couple of stages where a second person is really needed - spotting from above what has jammed when you are trying to get the gearbox out past the suspension and handing you the bolt when you are trying to bench-press the IRD back into its place for example. A constant supply of coffee and sympathy also helps when trying to get the top IRD bolts out or in - they are really inaccessible and I used every extension bar that I own plus some borrowed ones and snaked the thing past the suspension, through the right wheel arch, under the turbo and over the top of the IRD and then lined everything up by touch. You are working from under the car between the engine and the bulkhead and once you have a hand in there, you can't see what you are doing. A wobble joint or two in the snake of extensions helps a lot too.

Getting the front of the car as high as possible is essential as is lowering the gearbox end of the engine as far as you can - there is very little room to get the gearbox out and any extra elbow room that you can give yourself is valuable. Changing the clutch is the easy bit and I can't see any reason why you might have to match it to the DMF. My local garage quoted "£1,000 at least, it depends how many bits are stuck" which I think translated as "unless you do it yourself, the car isn't worth it".

So not a minor project, allow yourself lots of time and I wouldn't recommend doing it in January as I did but very satisfying when you start it up, let out the clutch and it lives again!
Click to expand...
Wot he said. ;)
I did it over a weekend starting on Friday night and finishing late Sunday, I managed it by myself with an engine hoist and a trolley jack.
 
Well at last its all done.
Done over two weekends and several evenings.

Eventually managed without an engine hoist using a ratchet cargo strap hung over a 2 by 8 straddling the engine bay. Hooked onto the eyes either side of the gearbox which actually helped when i had to rotate the box to get it past the chassis leg.
Couldnt get the roll pin out of the gearbox selector arm even when the box was out. If i had this would have saved a lot of time. Ird was easy to lift into place from below.

Used Luk clutch set including the SCS. Clutch is now so light! Couldnt decouple the clutch master so had to stump up 50 squids for aftermarket one from Paddocks in Matlock.

Very proud of myself for doing it all on me todd. And especially for saving a small fortune on garage labour.

Now off for a very well earned g and t.

Thanks for all the tips they came in really useful.
 
Jimbob1 said:
Well at last its all done.
Done over two weekends and several evenings.

Eventually managed without an engine hoist using a ratchet cargo strap hung over a 2 by 8 straddling the engine bay. Hooked onto the eyes either side of the gearbox which actually helped when i had to rotate the box to get it past the chassis leg.
Couldnt get the roll pin out of the gearbox selector arm even when the box was out. If i had this would have saved a lot of time. Ird was easy to lift into place from below.

Used Luk clutch set including the SCS. Clutch is now so light! Couldnt decouple the clutch master so had to stump up 50 squids for aftermarket one from Paddocks in Matlock.

Very proud of myself for doing it all on me todd. And especially for saving a small fortune on garage labour.

Now off for a very well earned g and t.

Thanks for all the tips they came in really useful.
Click to expand...

Well done - it is a good feeling when it is done. And that G&T tastes as good as a drink well earned.

Cheers!
 
Jimbob1 said:
Well at last its all done.
Done over two weekends and several evenings.

Eventually managed without an engine hoist using a ratchet cargo strap hung over a 2 by 8 straddling the engine bay. Hooked onto the eyes either side of the gearbox which actually helped when i had to rotate the box to get it past the chassis leg.
Couldnt get the roll pin out of the gearbox selector arm even when the box was out. If i had this would have saved a lot of time. Ird was easy to lift into place from below.

Used Luk clutch set including the SCS. Clutch is now so light! Couldnt decouple the clutch master so had to stump up 50 squids for aftermarket one from Paddocks in Matlock.

Very proud of myself for doing it all on me todd. And especially for saving a small fortune on garage labour.

Now off for a very well earned g and t.

Thanks for all the tips they came in really useful.
Click to expand...
I had the same problem with the roll pin and it made life harder for me too.
You're probably better off with a new master anyway. Mine failed as soon as I tried to bleed the system.
Well done. :)
 
Bonsoir,
Es ce que vous pouvez- vous m'expliquer comment déposer la boite de vitesse,
pour pouvoir changer mon embrayage de freelander td4 moteur bmw.
J'ai besoin de votre expérience pour ne pas me tromper, j'ai commencé le démontage
mais je me suis dit que c'est sage de revenir vers vous,parce-que c'est la première fois
que je monte un embrayage sur freelander td4.
Merci infiniment de votre aide.
Cordialement.
 
NADOR75 said:
Bonsoir,
Es ce que vous pouvez- vous m'expliquer comment déposer la boite de vitesse,
pour pouvoir changer mon embrayage de freelander td4 moteur bmw.
J'ai besoin de votre expérience pour ne pas me tromper, j'ai commencé le démontage
mais je me suis dit que c'est sage de revenir vers vous,parce-que c'est la première fois
que je monte un embrayage sur freelander td4.
Merci infiniment de votre aide.
Cordialement.
Click to expand...
Pardon monsieur mon Fancais c'est mal!!!
Google to the rescue

"Good evening, Can you explain to me how to deposit the gearbox? to be able to change my freelander clutch td4 engine bmw. I need your experience not to be mistaken, I started dismantling but I thought it's wise to come back to you because it's the first time that I ride a clutch on freelander td4. Thank you very much for your help. Cordially."

Take a look here
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/clutch-change-in-a-td4-list-of-jobs-to-do.315242/
 
Bonsoir,
Merci les gars vous m'aviez rendu un grand service, j'ai suivis tous vos conseils.
J'ai enlevé les 7 boulons de la cloche, 4 boulons de l'IRD,le démarreur,batterie,les roues
le sous-châssis,l'arbre de transmission de l'IRD, au faite j'ai tous enlever.
Il me reste que les 2 boulons supérieurs qui sont difficiles à trouver, franchement
je n'arrive pas à les voir ni à les trouver, donc je suis bloqué pas moyen de les toucher
ni les voir.
Encore merci les Amis.
Cordialement.
Nautique75.
 
NADOR75 said:
Bonsoir,
Merci les gars vous m'aviez rendu un grand service, j'ai suivis tous vos conseils.
J'ai enlevé les 7 boulons de la cloche, 4 boulons de l'IRD,le démarreur,batterie,les roues
le sous-châssis,l'arbre de transmission de l'IRD, au faite j'ai tous enlever.
Il me reste que les 2 boulons supérieurs qui sont difficiles à trouver, franchement
je n'arrive pas à les voir ni à les trouver, donc je suis bloqué pas moyen de les toucher
ni les voir.
Encore merci les Amis.
Cordialement.
Nautique75.
Click to expand...

Good evening, Thank you guys you had done me a great service, I followed all your advice. I removed the 7 bolts from the bell, 4 bolts from the IRD, the starter, battery, the wheels the subframe, the drive shaft of the IRD, at the done I have all remove. I still have the top 2 bolts that are difficult to find, frankly I can not see them or find them, so I'm stuck with no way to touch them neither see them. Again thank you Friends.
Cordially. Nautique75.

Have you removed the IRD completely? If not it will be very difficult or impossible to do the job.
Have you removed the engine/gearbox mount from the gearbox? It is under the battery box.

Have you downloaded Rave?
 
Bonjour,
il ne fait pas beau à Paris, mais le temps change très vite.
Il se trouve ou exactement ce boulon, par ou c'est facile
de le trouvé, vous m'aviez dis sous la boite à pile,ou se
trouve la boite à piles?
Ou se ce que je peu télécharger Rave?
Merci à vous et excuser.
Cordialement.
Nautique75.
 
Bonjour,
merci de m'avoir répondu, oui j'ai sortis la batterie, le socle de la batterie,
le support moteur, le support boite vitesse et tous les boulons qui maintient
la BV au moteur.
Je bloque uniquement au boulon difficile derrière l'ird, je n'arrive pas à le trouver,
et comment l'enlever.
Je crois c'est l'age 70 ans je vieillis il faut que j’arrête, mais je ne peux pas j'ai ça dans
le sang, je fais du sport, je fais du bateau, je voyage seul en voiture à l'étranger, je mange
bien et la vie belle à 70 ans.
Merci à vous.
Cordialement
Nautique 75.
 
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