freelander 1 crank shaft bolt

hi all has anybody never been able to undo the bolt that holds the pully on, my son in law tried and tried with me holding the tool to stop the pully from turning round but to no avail in fact he put that much strength into it he nearly passed out, we used a 3/4 inch drive as it is a long bar on it but had to have a step down to half inch and he snapped 2 of the step downs one was a impact one which will be going back as it was only brought on the day. I think the only way it to get a 22mm 3/4 inch drive socket .

Don't be tempted to put impact wrench on it. Crank snaps!! Well it was the most likely cause of my crank failure as I had replaced pulley in the past with impact wrench. It is a joke, Haynes says to wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear!!!! More meat in socket should shift it.

Is this for the K series?

Td4 going by the profile.

You need to use the special or proper tool, with a good socket and a length of scaffold pole over the bar.

For most cars I normally put wheels back on lower car to ground put car in 5th gear have someone put there foot hard on the brakes, and use biggest bar I can find with 3/4 socket can not see that that would not work for Td4 engine but have never tried on mine as have not needed to so far

I have the right gear a 4ft 3/4ins ratcheting have to holder for the pulley I have ordered a 3/4 ins 22mm socket so no more braking the 1/2 ins step down because that is the week point and I have got a small scaffolding bar but I really think the pulley changing yet there is no fairy dust coming off it and now we have put better belts on it sounds a lot better , I did for get to say it is a td4 thanks guys

Never tried it on the Hippo but worked a treat on me van. This method may raise a few eyebrows on the forum.

1. 1/2" drive, 6 sided, 22mm socket on a breaker bar with another suitably strong bar slid over the top for extra length.
2. Fit this assembly to the bolt (making sure it's all the way onto the bolt) with the bar facing the front of the vehicle.
3. Turn the engine over a little by hand (clockwise) until the bar is extended enough to reach and touch the floor.
4. Make sure it's secure then jump in yer Hippo and make sure it's out of gear.
5. Give a very quick blip of the starter motor. Repeat: A very quick blip. DO NOT start the engine!
6. Bolt should now have cracked.

weemac said:

Bolt should now have cracked.

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Not always. Sometimes the pulley bolt is so tight, it snaps the crankshaft, if the crankshaft is taking the bolt removal torque. It's best to use the correct locking tool, which locates on the pulley, and turn the nut with a 3/4" or 1" drive socket and a very long lever.

weemac said:

6. Bolt should now have cracked.

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Nodge68 said:

Not always. Sometimes the pulley bolt is so tight, it snaps the crankshaft, if the crankshaft is taking the bolt removal torque. It's best to use the correct locking tool, which locates on the pulley, and turn the nut with a 3/4" or 1" drive socket and a very long lever.

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True words. Crankshaft is cast iron I believe so I can see how that could happen easily. Correct tools and method obviously the preferred option to avoid straining anything. I'm just saying it could work if you're desperate enough

weemac said:

Crankshaft is cast iron I believe so I can see how that could happen easily.

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Yes. Fitting a cast iron crankshaft was one of the things BMW did to reduce the build cost of the "R" derivative of the M47 engine.

A cast iron crankshaft isn't guaranteed failure as most engines before the mid 80s used them. However the M47R crankshaft isn't exactly robust, when compared to cast iron cranks of yesteryear.

Crankshaft broke on my old Rover 75 with the M47 engine while driving. Had 53k miles on it at the time. Snapped at one end, just behind the flange that the torque converter/flywheel bolts onto.

Makes sense to break at the power take off end. Mine broke between pully and piston 1 big end. I think it was impact wrench related!!!! Some months previous.

Steve in Antrim said:

Crankshaft broke on my old Rover 75 with the M47 engine while driving. Had 53k miles on it at the time. Snapped at one end, just behind the flange that the torque converter/flywheel bolts onto.

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That's a more likely place for a crank to fail, but actually quite unusual on the M47R.

andyfreelandy said:

Makes sense to break at the power take off end. Mine broke between pully and piston 1 big end. I think it was impact wrench related!!!! Some months previous.

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Oddly that's the normal breakage point for this engine.

Perhaps it is because the crank pulley bolt is so difficult to undo and the force applied does the fracturing??

andyfreelandy said:

Perhaps it is because the crank pulley bolt is so difficult to undo and the force applied does the fracturing??

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Possibly. The crankshaft is only designed to take 300 odd Nm of torque. So removing a really tight pulley bolt, while holding the output end of the crankshaft will mean all the bolt release torque goes through the crankshaft. It's very unusual for a crankshaft to break these days, unless it's a D3/4 TDV6 crank.