Series 3 fitting a 2.5 N/A into a series 3

I just got the chassis welded up and painted so I thought I'd drop the engine in to check it fits ok. It doesn't!
Has any body else come across this problem, the injection pump sits on the chassis mount, I had to cut off the battery tray as well.
Do I need to change the mount on that side the other side seems fine. I was under the impression that it should be a straight swap

Lots of threads on this from a few years ago. The best way is to grind off the chassis bracket and weld the engine mount from your old engine in its place. I drilled and bolted mine to check fit before welding. You need to read up on the different methods. Its the Sherpa engine which fits straight in as the pump sits higher.
Sorry I have forgotten the exact details as I did mine 7 years ago.
Billy

Yes I've got a 20J engine as well from when landrover made them for taxis but its the 19J I want to put in.
Have to modify the engine mount then.....

Its the 12j I am talking about. I don't know about the turbo. Think the Sherpa engine was 13j but memory may be false. The front timing case can be interchangeable but again not something I have done.
Happy to take a couple of photos if that would be any help.

A photo of the engine mount would be great, I can weld one together but I had hoped it would go straight in. The one going in is straight out of an old 90 that had a tdi conversion.

Also it seems to me that the mount that bolts onto the engine doesn't seem right . I don't have the one that came off the engine originally so I used one off another motor. The rubber won't sit properly as its on the injector pump...... not having a good day

I feel your pain Joe. I've always thought swapping from original to a 2.5 was a bit pointless as they don't give enough extra power to justify the effort and they are less fuel efficient. You might have been better putting a petrol motor in. The only engine upgrade I would consider is from original 2.25 petrol to a 3.5 v8 and only then if my original died.

Col

The original petrol was no good and I used to have a 90 with the N/A diesel which never let me down, (ok where I live we don't have many hills).
I could get about 28mpg out of it which is about the same as I get from the 300 Tdi Disco now. If I need to get up the hill to Norwich Castle I've always got the low range

I Found this little note. Apologies to the original poster as I don't remember where it came from. I think they used to post as Snagger.

A 12J or 19J can use the lhs engine and chassis mounts from a 2.25 with no alterations, but you must use the 12J/19J rhs bracket and mount to clear the injection pump. The 200Tdi can use the 109's orignial mountings and brackets on both sides.

All three options will require a custom exhaust, even the 12J, as they need a 2" bore for the nad and a 2.25" bore for the turbo charged engines.

You will not be able to use a Discovery 200Tdi engine in a 109 unless you fit it with Defender manifolds, turbo and oil dip-stick (as I did). The timing cases are different, but this will not matter. 88s will accept the Discovery manifolds and turbo.

A Discovery Tdi will need an electric fan, though the other options can use a fixed SIII diesel fan or, if you move the rad forwards, the viscous fan associated with that engine.

In all cases, the battery tray will need removal due to the injection pump, and you'll have to find another method of fitting the air filter. Oil bath filters are a bad idea with turbo engines.

Both turbo engine will need an oil cooler. The TD can just about get by with a mint SIII export model 4-row rad if it's in perfect condition, but a Tdi should have its own rad fitted.

The 12J and 19J will mate to a Series III gear box with one stud removes and using the SIII clutch parts. A Tdi needs minor alterations to the flywheel housing in order to mate to the bell housing, but the internals all match if you use the SIII clutch, again.

Plumbing the rad to a 12 or 19J is simple - use the top of the SIII thermostat housing and conect to the 4-row rad with standard SIII hoses (top and bottom). The Tdi will need a bit more creativity to mount and connect the rad.

The earlier sections in my blog show the fitting of the 12J, which would match the 19J, in my 109 with a standard 4cyl engine bay. The latest sections show my method of fitting a 200Tdi, including many of the problems along the way, with significant changes to the bay, making use of the Defender front end.
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My 12j cost me £60 and has run for 7 years used most days. I like them. Probably a bit gutless in the 109 but still better than the 2.25. I get between 23 and 25 mpg.
I will get some pictures when I can. I don't think mine is fitted as the above instructions.

Billy

gipsybilly said:

but you must use the 12J/19J rhs bracket and mount to clear the injection pump.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that its a great help but any idea what exactly the quoted bit means- does it mean the chassis mount or the bracket on the engine?
Thanks

Sorry It doesn't make complete sense to me. One point I do remember is to enlarge the gearbox holes slightly as the studs on the 2.5 are metric and slightly bigger making it a snug fit. I will take photos tomorrow and try to find some better notes. But you use an engine mount from the old engine welded to the chassis I can't remember which side it comes off of but hopefully the photos will help. I know some people have fitted it as is and the engine sits at a slope but I didn't fancy that.
Billy

Thats great.
Thanks

So here is mine, I think its the old petrol engine mount welded to the chassis but I can't remember which side of the engine you remove it from. Hope the photos help you anyway. Everything else is original.

Thanks thats a great help, I've got the bracket thats on the chassis just need the original one for the engine now.
Priced one up £180.
Do you know anybody thats got one on an old engine. Lol.
Going to have to ask around seems ridiculous price for a bracket- twice as much as the engine cost me.
Thanks for your help.

Funnily enough I have a spare engine that I have started to break so I can look and see if that bracket is on it, but I think it is. Don't know where these prices come from, usually can get them on ebay I think.

Also forgot to mention I put some spacers in to lift the engine a little as the flywheel housing is very close to the crossmember.

I looked at it and I thought I might have to lift it a bit but I won't know till I get the gearbox on as well to see how it sits but until the engine is in its hard to tell. If you have a bracket I would be eternally grateful let me know how you get on.
Thanks

Hello Joe, Sorry I could not find the bracket anywhere but tonight found it under the bench where i must have kicked it, thinking I wouldn't ever need it. Anyway PM me with your details if you want it still.
Billy

how do you send a PM?

Did you get the PM havn't done it before....