Experience of the frozen north?

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jzcktv

jzcktv

New Member
Posts
646
Location
Near Reading, Berkshire UK
Hi,
I'm planning an expedition with a couple of mates up the Norwegian Arctic Highway in December this year, which goes as far north as Europe's got. Expected temperatures are as low as -36 deg C although the average will be higher.

Has anyone got any advice on modifications, recommended prep and things to watch out for in general when using a Defender TD5 in very low temperatures / on ice.

Also interesting tales and jibes welcome :D
 
Yep I'm planning to get in touch with the local Landy club. I've cosidered getting electric thermals as the heater in the Defender seems mainly to be designed to add balast rather than heat.

I saw some secondary heaters on eBay which you plumb in but don't really want to start hacking the car about too much yet.

I've already found the doors wont shut in the cold unless you use two hands top and centre.
 
Also the engine takes around 8-15 miles to get up to 'operating' temperature. I asked the dealer to fit a new thermostat and he said "I've NEVER fitted a new thermostat on a Defender".

Are they always so slow to heat up?
 
Fit a eberspacher , with block heating facility , insulate, change all oils to synthetic , fit rad muff . Might be worth going on "plowsite", a good forum for vehicles that operate in sub zero conditions HTSH
 
destination Nordkapp ey? will be there in 2010 :) but in the summer!

I wouldnt go with the standard heating, as Trac man said, fit a webasto or eberspacher diesel heater. Block heater will also help with starting. you cannot afford to be cranking again and again in those conditions. Your batts will take a kicking. amount of preperation depends on how reliant you are on your vehicle (onroad/offroad?) and if you will be staying in hotels etc or out in the wilds.

Good luck

G
 
Thanks tacr2man, I have been looking at an eberspacher (God they are pricey!) and a Kenlowe engine pre-heater.

I had not thought about synthetic gearbox oil, that's one for the list. And thanks for the "plowsite" tip, I'll go hunt that one down.
 
word of warning, the kenlowe heater works off mains. so no good really. unless your home. fit a webasto or eber and get the block heater too. you can pick them up off ebay loads cheaper. do some research and get one from the bay, you wont regret it when your toasty in the cab. they go for around £2-300 unless you have time to source parts then you can get the lot for alot less.

G
 
Hi Griffdowg,
Take the anti-mozzi kit in the summer then!
The thing I'm really concerned about is if they shut the E6 down which they do on occasions if the weather gets bad as we could get stuck for days. Off roading will be pretty limited due to snow depth but I had hoped to have some fun further south with the Norwegian Landy club, was thinking of fetching some bits over for them to save on their extortionate taxes in exchange for some support and tips. I've driven a Volvo 2WD up to the arctic circle in Sweden with temp down to -32c with no problem so I'm not foreseeing so many problems.
Biggest issue is I don't think the Landy is designed to work cold climes, design is focused around heat and the military. I cant even close the doors on my Defender in the cold using normal techniques! The rubber seal is just too hard.
Also second battery in case of winching or starting problems.
Thanks
 
I am living in Oslo, and it is cold.
Even here where it is supposedly 'mild'
We have had snow/ice covered roads here now for 3 weeks.
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100_0591.jpg

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100_0605.jpg

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100_0607.jpg
.
.
There is snow piled up in the car park, 5 meters high, and not just 1 or 2 piles, but several.
It was nice when the snow first landed, but now it has become a LOT colder, and the snow has turned to ICE.
It looks soft, but it is as hard as concrete..
.
The coldest it has been here in Oslo this past few weeks is about minus 12 'ish
.
Tomorrow will be mild, only minus 5 !.
.
Use 50% antifreeze 50% water.
 
Yep, nearly bought one tonight until my eBay whizz son got me onto a worlwide search. These are MUCH cheaper second hand in Germany...

:-$

Descriptions are a bit of an issue though!
 
uk_vette,
Love the photos! With some small luck I'm about to start an assignment in Oslo, so there is some chance to meet up if you like. We can huddle for warmth over ONE beer and TWO straws! (Norwegian prices!) :)
 
I would of thought that in -30 conditions a radmuff would make a big difference but it doesn't seem to here in the UK. I've been running my 110 TD5 plugged into my diagnostic both with a radmuff fitted and without and have found that it makes just 2 degs difference.:confused: :confused: :confused:

My landy gets up to 83 degs without radmuff and 85 degs with it.
 
thats interesting ratty, i was going to buy one in the hope it will make my heater work more efficiently.

We camped on strata florida NY at -7degrees, the next day was a laugh trying to get off the lane, but i couldnt get any heat in the cab. engine was just about up to temp, but it was freezing inside. thought a radmuff may help. will have to think more on that one now.

G
 
Griffdowg said:
thats interesting ratty, i was going to buy one in the hope it will make my heater work more efficiently.

We camped on strata florida NY at -7degrees, the next day was a laugh trying to get off the lane, but i couldnt get any heat in the cab. engine was just about up to temp, but it was freezing inside. thought a radmuff may help. will have to think more on that one now.

G
Click to expand...

i've ziptyed an old carpet tile to the back of the A bar on the 110, it really helps

have also hung a heavy wool blanket from the roof down behind the seat backs - so the heater is only having to heat the cab rather than the back of the 110 as well

my heater has always been really good but doing the above gets it hot (yes hot) in the cab much much sooner
 
Its an old bush trick to drape a tarp or suchlike over the front of the vehicle esp if its a bit deeper than you are completely happy with.
If a vehicle is fitted with a properly functioning thermostat it should maintain operating temp once that is reached, as the heater is on the engine side of the thermo it should be able to draw heat unless it draws so much that the engine heat output cant keep up with it. With high efficiency modern diesels this can be a bit of a problem eg auxillary diesel fired heater fitted in some landrover products. The rad muff used to work well on series landrovers, even the old fertilizer bag version :p
You dont get this prob with theRV8 but the cost of adding to global warming thru burning fossil fuels is a bit of a pain :D
 
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