Error Codes P0170 P0300 P0135

Just when you thought it could not get any worse ......after fitting my beloved freelander 1.8 k series '04 with another EDU kit I thought that would be it for a while but noooo. I have got 3 errors
P0300 which left on the code list for a few days it threw up P0301 & P0304 being joined by the same coil pack I thought it must be that so I replaced it. But since replacing it within 10minutes of clearing the error and driving it it popped back up.

I was also getting P0135 bank 1 so I decided to stick my old 02 sensor from the manifold I had just changed, back in it as the manifold installed on the car I have just purchased on eBay what are the chances of having two bad sensors , the car has been joltey but I have only just forked out 700 on HG and put all problems down to that

After all of these I am now getting error code P0170 fuel trim .......is this all down to a faulty 02 or could it be other things I would like to first eliminate it being air lines but am unsure how

Cheers for reading guys

Check for air leaks into induction system and exhaust pre O2 sensor especially breather pipes

Hi there whats the best way of achieving this

If the O2 sensor has had lots of coolant on it from a failed HG. There's a good chance it's not going to be working the way it should.

Foobeedoo said:

Hi there whats the best way of achieving this

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There's not many places for to get an air leak into the intake of the post 2000 K series. The S shaped breather pipe is one. The large pipe on the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) is another
Also make sure the manifold bolts are correctly tightened. A spray of WD40 on the inlet manifold pipes and connections while the engine is running, will show up any leaks, as the engine note will change.

An exhaust leak will be obvious, while the engine is running.

I'd be checking the fuel pressure too. A clogged fuel filter can the cause of all the codes you are getting.

Hi there I have checked for leaks and nothing changes on engine idle. I have just enquired about a fuel filter and I'm being told there's many different types and in different locations I've been advised to check under bonnet for it but it's not obvious to me it's there, I can't see it under car can some one point me in the right direction with location or part numbers

Just tried wd40 on manifold no change in engine as it was running

I think I've found fuel filter is it under drivers rear wheel arch with 3 inputs

Foobeedoo said:

Hi there I have checked for leaks and nothing changes on engine idle. I have just enquired about a fuel filter and I'm being told there's many different types and in different locations I've been advised to check under bonnet for it but it's not obvious to me it's there, I can't see it under car can some one point me in the right direction with location or part numbers

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The fuel filter is incorporated into the fuel pump assembly.
There are a couple of different types, which makes getting the correct filter a challenge. I just replace the complete pump assembly, rather than mess about.
A fuel pressure test is the easiest way to prove the fuel supply.

How do I go about testing that thank you for your help this is sending me insane I've only owned my randy since October and already spent over 1k and still loads of jobs to go but I guess a project is a project just wish I'd done more research on the engines before buying her

Also taking the air pipes off to check clean and examine I got an error code of P0130 but it's gone again now is this a norm when playing with pipes when engine running

Foobeedoo said:

How do I go about testing that thank you for your help this is sending me insane I've only owned my randy since October and already spent over 1k and still loads of jobs to go but I guess a project is a project just wish I'd done more research on the engines before buying her

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You splice a fuel pressure gauge into the fuel rail fuel feed.

Foobeedoo said:

Also taking the air pipes off to check clean and examine I got an error code of P0130 but it's gone again now is this a norm when playing with pipes when engine running

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That's a TPS code. Did you unplug the throttle body while the engine is running? If so, that would flag your code.

Nodge68 said:

You splice a fuel pressure gauge into the fuel rail fuel feed.



That's a TPS code. Did you unplug the throttle body while the engine is running? If so, that would flag your code.

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No fuel gauge to test with and yes I was messing around with the tubes near the idle air valve/throttle body

Should I try a brand new 02 sensor

Foobeedoo said:

No fuel gauge to test with and yes I was messing around with the tubes near the idle air valve/throttle body

Should I try a brand new 02 sensor

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Replacing the O2 sensor won't fix a low fuel pressure problem. There's no point in replacing random components, until proper testing is carried out.

Nodge68 said:

Replacing the O2 sensor won't fix a low fuel pressure problem. There's no point in replacing random components, until proper testing is carried out.

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Agreed on fixing random parts but as far as I have read the fuel trim can be lean fuel or over fuelling and 02 sensor is listed as one of the culprits I'm sorry I'm just T wits end with this

Foobeedoo said:

Agreed on fixing random parts but as far as I have read the fuel trim can be lean fuel or over fuelling and 02 sensor is listed as one of the culprits I'm sorry I'm just T wits end with this

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My experience with the FL1 has shown that the fuel filter can cause lot's of running issues. It's never changed because it's a pain to do. So if the vehicle has done more than 60K miles, it's worth replacing anyway. Just replace the whole pump assembly to save messing about.
The O2 is cheaper to replace. But if it doesn't cure the problem, it's wasted money. Low fuel pressure will cause misfiring, lack of power at higher Rpm and poor fuel mixture control.

Is it easier to buy testing equipment or get a garage to do so sorry for all questions

Foobeedoo said:

Is it easier to buy testing equipment or get a garage to do so sorry for all questions

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I have a pressure test kit. They are available for about £40. This is often less than an hour's labour at a garage.
Have you done a compression test.

Not yet as I don't have a kit I had done a leak test many many years ago with one that a friend had lent me but was unsure on price of them