Engine Management Light

Hi Everyone

I'm trying to sort my engine warning light. Normally they are a pain in the backside when they come on an they wont go out! In my case the warning light is not coming on.

Before I bought the TD5 I know that there were some issues with the immobiliser, which I finally sorted and traced back to a faulty 10AS unit, which I have left connected but on the advice of a Land Rover tech bypassed (all I had to do was snip one wire on the 10AS and she now starts first time every time). Anyway, the previous owner had sent the ECU away and the immobiliser was removed from it by a specialist in Leeds.

I can read codes on the ECU and when I have sorted the problem (eg MAF sensor) the codes can be erased and they stay off, so I think the ECU is ok. The LED looks fine and undamaged.

Obviously I dont want the light on all the time but I do want it to come on when I first turn the key and then if there is a fault. Any ideas ??

Cheers

Stumpy

You need to sort it before MOT as it could fail the test.

Absolutely!

Just an idle thought - could you rewire the MIL into the battery charge indicator light, which goes out when the engine starts? That should get it thru the MOT but obviously won't do all you want

That sounds like a good idea. I's like to get to the bottom of it tho.

sound like a good idea don't sort the problem become a codger the next owner will then be left with the problem

Hi Mystery
I totally agree with you regarding sorting this out and not leaving it for the next owner (if I ever sell it!). I've pretty much done a full restoration on her but the wiring has been a struggle to be honest, I replaced the engine loom and the injector wiring but they were just straight replacements, so I could do that no bother. The diagram probably makes sense to an intelligent person, but Im more of a hammer swinger!

There's definitely more to this than meets the eye tho. The diagnostic plug was pretty much butchered when I got her. The wires were all soldered etc. I got a wiring diagram and bought a new plug and then repaired/soldered the wires from the ECU to it. Interestingly the wire that is supposed to supply the power to the plug didnt have any power when I checked it with the multi meter. So when I connect the diagnostic plug to my Pscan diagnostic thingy, I have had to solder a long wire with crocodile clip from the power wire and then connect it to the battery direct. Once I do this, the diagnostic thing works fine. I did post something a few months ago on this forum but couldnt get to the bottom of it.

Pity I'm not still in the Navy - I could have poppd round and offered beer rewards for some advice - HMS Raleigh and Drake isnt too far away!