Engine cut off

Hi all, my '78 S3 88" is in for mot on monday and one thing is worrying me. There is a switch you have to flick before starting the engine with the key, but the engine won't turn off with the key, only with the switch, i.e, if you turn the key (or even pull it out) the engine won't stop till you kill it with the switch. What I need to know is, will the tester fail it on this or let it pass if I explain how it works?

Rat67 said:

Hi all, my '78 S3 88" is in for mot on monday and one thing is worrying me. There is a switch you have to flick before starting the engine with the key, but the engine won't turn off with the key, only with the switch, i.e, if you turn the key (or even pull it out) the engine won't stop till you kill it with the switch. What I need to know is, will the tester fail it on this or let it pass if I explain how it works?

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Petrol or diesel?

I dont know the exact detail of the regs, but I dont think it should be a problem, so long as you can stop the engine from the drivers seat.

Older diesels you usually need to pull a handle to stop the injun.

is this something that has been added in year? if not and it has an mot then it should pass.

my s3 diesel has a stop cable

Thanks for the replies fellas, it's a diesel and has failed on:

Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.C.1b)
nearside front Headlamp aim too high (1.8)
offside front Headlamp aim too high (1.8)
nearside front Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings (6.1.B.2)
offside front Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings (6.1.B.2)
offside front Front wheel bearing has excessive play (2.5.A.3c)
nearside front Front wheel bearing has excessive play (2.5.A.3c)
nearside front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.2.B.1f)
Steering system has excessive free play detected at the steering wheel (steering box fitted) (2.2.A.1a)

Seems to have developed a lot of "faults" in one bloody year, despite the fact it passed last year with no advisories

That's not too bad a list if you ask me, depending on how bad the corrosion is.
Adjust headlights, adjust steering box (hopefully!). New front bearings and a track rod end, easy!

could have had a mates mot last year, or those bits may have been just inside the limits.

welding might be the only problem if you can't weld yourself, but you might be able to do a lot of the prep and get a mobile welder to pop by and weld the holes up when you are ready

How did they test the handbrake? Other stuff should be a doddle. If the hand brake really is out it probably just needs a new oil seal and will be full of gearbox oil...

Welding is always the must subjective and depends on the tester. Have an ask round a good welder should be able to advise after a quick look and you do most of the prep yourself to save time and money, the cleaning up and finding unrotted to weld to can be like opening a can of worms...

Okay end of the day it cost me £350. If anything its taught me to keep on top of everything and learn as much as I can about Landy's. I still need to do both front wheel bearings and now replace the tail lights as the Britpart crap I put in last week have basically melted around the bayonet fitting. I'm thinking of putting in an led kit, tail lights, indicators and side lights as I've heard that the standard lights just keep on melting/popping bulbs out. Paddock do a set of Wipac for £114 or there's a set of RDX on ebay for around £120. Just wondering if anyone has any experience of these light sets, good or bad

Never had a problem with bulbs/holder on mine other than rust and that can be prevented with a good dose of copper ease

Standard lights on mine have worked fine since 2008, not done anything except changed a couple of indicator bulbs.

The standard side & indicator lights are really really cheap and easy to replace. The main problem I have found is that modern bulbs have very small side 'spikes' (or whatever they are called) compared with the old ones, and can pop out of the fitting.
Second thoughts - it is easy to fit the wrong bulb. The normal side light bulb is a stubby little 5 watt job, but the bigger 21 watt bulbs will fit. If they are used for the side light they do overheat, as they are meant for stop/indicator lights, where they are on only temporarily.