I have seen a kit on ebay for very little money and fancied getting rid of the EGR valve on my facelift Disco 2, i'm sure i have been told that you need to delete the EGR from the ECU however when i looked earlier there is no electronic plug on the EGR so how would the ECU know if it was missing?
EGR removal on facelift TD5
- Thread starter 5tox
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bankz5152
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You dont. Juat blank it
ozzyboydeano
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if you want to remove the full system there is a bank of solenoids located right hand side below the coolant bottle these can be removed ....the blanking kit should come with every you need to do a full delete
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ozzyboydeano
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5Tox
EGR lay out number 23 and 24 is the solenoids these can be fully removed along with all small vac lines to the solenoids connected .... it is a persanal choice whether you leave them in or remove them ....I opted to remove all of mine engine bay looks more tidy the electronic plugs I cut them off and I seeled the ends of wires with heat shrink ... number 18 is replaced with a straight through .. .... I also plugged up the T piece ..number 8 in the picture ..also plugged up the small vac line at the air filter box # 22 with the plugs provided in the kit
I also blanked off both sides of the EGR cooler but opted to leave the cooler in place with coolant running through ..reason being this cooler is in the ideal place for surface area ..specally here in Australia where out side temps can reach over 40 + degrees every little bit of coolant area helps
EGR lay out number 23 and 24 is the solenoids these can be fully removed along with all small vac lines to the solenoids connected .... it is a persanal choice whether you leave them in or remove them ....I opted to remove all of mine engine bay looks more tidy the electronic plugs I cut them off and I seeled the ends of wires with heat shrink ... number 18 is replaced with a straight through .. .... I also plugged up the T piece ..number 8 in the picture ..also plugged up the small vac line at the air filter box # 22 with the plugs provided in the kit
I also blanked off both sides of the EGR cooler but opted to leave the cooler in place with coolant running through ..reason being this cooler is in the ideal place for surface area ..specally here in Australia where out side temps can reach over 40 + degrees every little bit of coolant area helps
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QRHcooper
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Did mine earlier this year, was really mucky, and all I had to do was to remove the existing pipework and blank off with the two supplied plates and the vacuum hose. Hadn't heard that you had to remove from the ECU and haven't encountered problems as of yet but, if I go into my fault register the ECU does display that the EGR is fully closed I believe?
ozzyboydeano
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just a blanking plate on its own does work as the idea is to stop exhaust gasses entering the air intake totally agree
the butterfly flap and egr valve still work as normal ..and this butterfly flap can still stick or jam up creating a restriction in the boost flow later down the track
electronically you can switch off the egr by disconnection of the solenoids via unplugging them ..this is where the blanking plate comes into play this guarantees compared to a EGR valve seat that maybe be by passing or has some leakage
the td5 wont throw any errors for a missing EGR unit as there is no oxygen sensors or EGR temp sensors
brian47
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I used a complete kit to remove the EGR on mine. The kit came with one blanking plate, six stainless steel bolts, two little rubber blanking plugs and the cone to replace the EGR valve completely. Mine was the type without the heat exchanger.
On the attached .pdf it shows how to remove both types with just one blanking plate. It all depends on exactly how much of the metalwork you want to remove.
The only trouble I had was in fitting the little rubber bungs; I dropped them on more than one occassion.
On the attached .pdf it shows how to remove both types with just one blanking plate. It all depends on exactly how much of the metalwork you want to remove.
The only trouble I had was in fitting the little rubber bungs; I dropped them on more than one occassion.
sierrafery
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It's a good move to unplug the solenoids cos the ECU keeps energising them as the IAT doesnt grow as expected without exhaust gas involvment, this will make the solenoids get hot putting unnecessary load on that circuit which is shared with the MAF and can affect it's readings due to the voltage drop.... so unplug the solenoids and tie the connectors as to not touch earth cos it's permannent ignition feed in them
bankz5152
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So you can unplug both with no issues? Without doing much else? If not I need to get back in there and remove more crap
sierrafery
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Unplug or cut and insulate the wires as you wish just dont let the solenoids connected to that circuit cos it's not good
bankz5152
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Cheers. Ive always hated those! Removed now, everything appears to be fine...
triumphman
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Just unplugged mine and it has been fine
ozzyboydeano
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unplug both plugs
one operates the butterfly valve this changes the pressure drop so when the other solenoid opens the egr the engine can then suck in from another source
some do get confused though they think the butterfly plate is a throttle control this can be removed ... iam unsure if you can un screw the plate and remove I throw mine out along time ago and replaced with a straight though pipe from the kit provided
the idea of the blanking plate assure a 100% blank... because most old active egr valve seats leak when closed and they do not guarantee a full seating seal
you can also remove both solenoids and those silly small air multi colour lines connected as long as you plug up the T piece so you still have vacuum to brake booster chamber there is also an exhaust /vent going to the air filter box this needs to plugged up to
I have to admit the td5 is the most easiest engine to delete an egr system compared to other engines I have deleted in the past also newer cars are nearly impossible without throwing engine lights but there is ways also
brian47
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As I said in post #8, I removed mine completely and replaced it with the stainless "cone". The gasket was supplied in the kit I purchased.
The vacuum lines were also removed right back too the modulator and the open ends were plugged with the little rubber bungs.
The actual blanking plate was fitted on the opening in the exhaust manifold. All the required bolts were replaced, 4 on the cone and 2 on the blanking plate.
Just to be on the safe side, I did apply some exhaust assembly paste, although a thin smear of "Gun Gum" will also work, to the blanking plate to form a good seal. Be careful not to apply too much paste because once it's hardened, any excess could break free and end up somewhere in the turbo.
The vacuum lines were also removed right back too the modulator and the open ends were plugged with the little rubber bungs.
The actual blanking plate was fitted on the opening in the exhaust manifold. All the required bolts were replaced, 4 on the cone and 2 on the blanking plate.
Just to be on the safe side, I did apply some exhaust assembly paste, although a thin smear of "Gun Gum" will also work, to the blanking plate to form a good seal. Be careful not to apply too much paste because once it's hardened, any excess could break free and end up somewhere in the turbo.
