Dse ?

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Teddy

New Member
Posts
181
Location
Bradford, West Yorkshire
hiya guys:eek: I've just regged on here so I can get in the know. I have a question tho. I am thinking of buying my first range, Ive been offered a nice 1 at almost 5 grand N reg DSE. There are no problems with it all, its got new air suspension too. the interior is very nice and for its millage very untouched looking. milage is 103k. I have also seen an R reg as well which hasnt had any air suspension problems and there are not any problems with the electrics . but it has got 127k on the clock. As its my first range I dont want to be unlucky and end up with a bad one, Another thing i would like some feedback on is if the N reg has just had all its air suspension replaced would the new Replacement be of the improved new type that should have been fitted to all the problem range's ? and if so it could be an advantage to me ?
I am going to test drive and look at both today and tomorrow.
and am i right in thinking that a p38 is a 2.5 DSE ?
Also as a first time buyer whats the most important thing i need to be looking at as regards to warning signs of a trouble range ?
 
hiya guys:eek: I've just regged on here so I can get in the know. I have a question tho. I am thinking of buying my first range, Ive been offered a nice 1 at almost 5 grand N reg DSE. There are no problems with it all, its got new air suspension too. the interior is very nice and for its millage very untouched looking. milage is 103k. I have also seen an R reg as well which hasnt had any air suspension problems and there are not any problems with the electrics . but it has got 127k on the clock. As its my first range I dont want to be unlucky and end up with a bad one, Another thing i would like some feedback on is if the N reg has just had all its air suspension replaced would the new Replacement be of the improved new type that should have been fitted to all the problem range's ? and if so it could be an advantage to me ?
I am going to test drive and look at both today and tomorrow.
and am i right in thinking that a p38 is a 2.5 DSE ?
Also as a first time buyer whats the most important thing i need to be looking at as regards to warning signs of a trouble range ?

Hi Teddy,
If I was you I would try and find someone who is familiar with the P38 typre Range Rover and take them along with you. If thats not possible these are the things I would have a close look at (in no real order).

Check the air suspension (i know you said its all been replaced but read on!). First of all height changes should be smooth and quick taking no longer than around 7-10 secs between heights, probably even less if 'everything' has just been replaced. Get in the vehicle, start the engine, make sure the door is closed, make sure its in P (or neutral if its a manual), handbrake on and foot off brake and press the height switch to go upto high mode, you should rise smoothly and stutter free (the back end WILL raise first and then the front). Once there, press the inhibit switch and drop back down to normal height, wait until its settled out then go down to motorway mode and then down to access mode, all changes should be smooth. Once at access mode go back up the heights, I would recommend going straight back to standard height (the level with just a flat line by the side of it). It should raise and be there within a few secs (less than 7-10) if its taking any longer and the light is blinking for a long time then expect to replace the air compressor or at the very least refurbish it with a new seal. One thing I should say is that after messing with the air suspension and changing up a few times you will drain the air tank and it will take at least 8-9 mins for it to refill.

Once you have done the height change test get underneath the vehicle with it at normal height and physically LOOK at the air suspension bags/springs. They are where springs would usually be on a vehicle. If they are new they will look jet black and fold over at the bottom with a nice smooth surface. If they are not so new and getting old they will appear light grey from road muck etc and where they fold over at the bottom there may be surface cracking of the rubber, this indicates you will need to replace them at some point in the future as the rubber is beginning to perish (your looking at around £65 a bag).

Once you have checked all the air suspension stuff check the service history and check it has been serviced reguarly!! Ask the previous owner for any and ALL receipts relating to work done (such as the EAS overhaul). As long as its been serviced properly by either LR or a specialist then you should be good as far as the engine goes.

Get in the car and start it again. Check the central locking, push the button down on the sill and all doors should lock (check by looking at the other door sill buttons). Lift the button back up and they should all unlock, again, check they do.

Check the low range gearbox works.

Check the heating and cooling controls. Put the temp down to LO and check you have icey cold air coming out from the a/c, once it does take it up to HI and make sure you have hot air coming out, once it does go back down to something like 19-20 and you should feel the definite temp difference. Once you have done that select each different setting for where you want the air to come out of and make sure it comes out where you direct it - if you get a handbook symbol during any of this then something somewhere in the heating system isnt right and will require repair. Check the heated seats, they probably wont work as all the P38's I ever looked at never had them working. You can get them working again by replacing the heating element inside the seat base.

If its got electric seats make sure they work all ok and adjust every angle on them to make sure the motors are ok.

Go on a LONG test drive if possible, try and insist that you can and listen out for any strange sounds or anything. Pay attention to everything you normally would on any car, common problems can include shuddering while braking or vibration when driving at speed along a straight road, these can be worn bushes and/or ball joints. Also if its an auto - from a standing start drive it pretty harshly upto around 70 mph and watch out for signs of a slipping gearbox - this would show itself as the engine revs jumping about as it went into, for example 4th gear, you would be able to rev away and the revs will just climb but no speed is gained.

Lastly, I wont lie and say that these vehicles are completely trouble free and brilliant in every way, you WILL experience problems along the line and you will have times when you hate the thing and want to kick it but they are great vehicles and as long as you are ok with learning to do some of your own work on them you will love it!!

Good luck with getting one and let us know hwo you get on...

-Wills :)
 
Buying a Range Rover P38A

This article should cover any questions.

Other tips:

Never buy a car in the dark.
Don't buy a car when it rains
Make sure the car is fully accessible and not back up against a wall.
Check the bonnet to see if its hot, if so it may have cold starting issues
Press every button, check to see if everything works.
Check the boot area for rust and accident damage (resprays and welding etc)
Always take the car for a drive to make sure it's safe and doesn't make strange noises.
Always check the door and panel gaps are equal.
Make sure the car doesn't overheat. Start the car up and let it tick over while you do your inspection.
 
Thankyou for your help guys. I have just been to see an R reg DSE manual. The bodywork was fantastic and so was the interior. The owner started the engine and i watched to see how long it was before the height level indicator set it self. it took almost 5 minutes for the 2nd from top and bottom lights to go out. is this normal ?
also when he revved the car up it took ages for the car to gain speed but the rev counter was over halfway round the clock, my lass says it was very shuddery and noisy. when i asked him to raise the height and lower it again 3 corners responded except the drivers side. When I mentioned to him about the hot start issues he didnt offer to show me wether it would start again or not. I made my excuses and left.
 
I made my excuses and left.

Very wise man! I think its worth probably by what you describe around £3000-4000 tops.

He's trying it on.....

Still, plenty more in the sea....

As I mentioned on another thread, always get your faults fixed, they wont sell your car and if found you will be potentially knocked down quite a bit.
 
hiya bud, He was asking for almost 5K.
he seemed really shifty and dodgy, TBH i couldnt wait to get out of there. There doesnt seem to be too many around so I'm running out of viewings.
I would love to have something other than a 2.5 but it would be too costly for me in petrol so 2.5 dse it has to be. could you tell me what the difference is between the p38 and the p38a ?

Thanks very much;)
 
hiya bud, He was asking for almost 5K.
he seemed really shifty and dodgy, TBH i couldnt wait to get out of there. There doesnt seem to be too many around so I'm running out of viewings.
I would love to have something other than a 2.5 but it would be too costly for me in petrol so 2.5 dse it has to be. could you tell me what the difference is between the p38 and the p38a ?

Thanks very much;)

Yup, the 2.5 DSE is a very sensible choice to keep running costs down as a 4.0 petrol loves to drink petrol at 15 mpg around town.

There's no difference between P38 and P38a, technically its P38a but most people leave the "a" bit off.

Keep checking Autotrader Online as you may get lucky. Stick to your budget as £5K should get you a nice DSE for that price.
 
Thanks for the post Adam, Ive just been on the blower to a guy who has one for sale and he has had every single problem with it that you can imagine yup.. including air problem, he has got a new compressor fitted and he even got the fix for the hot start issue new head gasket, exhaust system, new ecu put in basically everything. What he did tell me was that he recons theres a pin that has to do with the clutch that apparantley snaps, quite a common fault he told me but everythings all fixed now, I thought great nowt more can go wrong....lol sounds a good motor, Untill he told me that the air - con doesn't work, *sighs* ahh well. Correct me if I am wrong but if a range rover is standing and the wheels are NOT inside the wheel arches and there seems to be a nice space, would that indicate that the air system would be in good working order ?
Thanks very much
Teddy :)
 
lol sounds a good motor, Untill he told me that the air - con doesn't work, *sighs* ahh well. Correct me if I am wrong but if a range rover is standing and the wheels are NOT inside the wheel arches and there seems to be a nice space, would that indicate that the air system would be in good working order ?

Teddy,

Air con is one of the most expensive things to go wrong as its difficult to get at as its cost is mainly down to labour costs. Make sure to drop him £4-500 for that.

To test the air suspension, get in start it up and make sure all doors are shut. In the middle console is the suspension button. Have a play drop it down to access level (bottom marker) and then to the top and back down again. you will see it level off and up and down. Then get out and check each gap on each wheel which obviously should be the same height.
 
Thanks Adam yup the height suspension is foremost in my mind, if i post you a link would you have a look at the advert and tell me what you think ? from the photo the body is quite high from the wheels which I am hoping is a good thing in that the airbags are good ? or that the system is holding well ? but yup this advert is the one we are going to look at tomorrow, I've seen about 4 so far. the one we were going to see that has the air con problem or no air con at all...lol he was saying that the garage filled it with gas and it still didnt work, he was saying it was to do with the switch and something to do with the ecu throwing a fault up.

This is the advert of the one we are going to see tomorrow

Car Dealership

Thankyou for your help :)
 
Errrr why isnt the aircon fixed when he clearly mentions the aircon in the advert and also he states a free 6 month warranty?

If the aircon is at fault, the HEVAC unit will display a TESTBOOK icon on the display. This is saying the air con system has a fault ie more likely like mine the hoses have perished and are leaking an oil like fluid. This should be visible on the floor if you start the vehicle and move it forward or back away from its original position.

If he states that he has already done that then the icon wont show if its ECU (BECM) related. Now if its the BECM that could be very expensive to fix. Official LR price is £900 plus labour to fit.

If its a switch, again why hasnt it been fixed? Surely thats the cheapest fix for any garage?

If your very intersted in the RR, ask for an idependent inspection and put it on a testbook. All faults will show up and give you a full idea of what potential problems the RR has. Even if you have to pay LR for a testbook it maybe a good idea to pay that than buy a lemon.

Ask about the so called free 6 month warranty. Check out what EXACTLY it covers. Some of these can be totally useless and worthless as a chocolate fireguard.
 
ahhh the advert i showed you wasnt the one with the dodgy aircon. thankfully the advert i showed you is the one that has the air system replaced.
oooo nooooo the one with the dodgy aircon will defo not be viewed by me :)

I am keeping my eyes open also for a HSE model with LPG.
Is the HSE a better model ?

Thanks very much :)
 
I am keeping my eyes open also for a HSE model with LPG.

Is the HSE a better model ?

HSE is better spec'd inside, all mod cons for the time it was sold.

So it has electric everything and leather and walnut throughout....some have better sound systems and also came with an auto gearbox and electric sunroof option.

I have an 4.0 SE petrol Auto.
 
We do about 200 miles per week, around town, how much a week do you reckon that would cost in a 4.0 or a 4.6, at an average speed of 30-40 mph, (thats all we can do in west yorkshire lol)
Thanks again :)
 
P.S.......I'm sure this would be easier by phone or msn lol
I'd take somebody with me that new something about ranges, but being up here and being a southerner, i'm on foreign ground!!
 
Thanks Adam yup the height suspension is foremost in my mind, if i post you a link would you have a look at the advert and tell me what you think ? from the photo the body is quite high from the wheels which I am hoping is a good thing in that the airbags are good ? or that the system is holding well ? but yup this advert is the one we are going to look at tomorrow, I've seen about 4 so far. the one we were going to see that has the air con problem or no air con at all...lol he was saying that the garage filled it with gas and it still didnt work, he was saying it was to do with the switch and something to do with the ecu throwing a fault up.

This is the advert of the one we are going to see tomorrow

Car Dealership

Thankyou for your help :)

Teddy,

My own advice would be to only buy one that has had either one or two owners and has FSH, even if you have to wait for one like that. Most P38's with 100K or more will have had faults at some time or another - or they will be due to have them. They are lovely vehicles but because they are so complex, you have to be prepared for a steep learning curve or have lots of money to pay someone to look after it because they do go wrong ocasionally. Richard
 
hiya richard, yup I am finding out that they are a troubled vehicle and not sure now really wether to risk buying one. I am thinking that i may just keep the ownership of one a dream... might be cheaper..

thanks alot :)
 
hiya richard, yup I am finding out that they are a troubled vehicle and not sure now really wether to risk buying one. I am thinking that i may just keep the ownership of one a dream... might be cheaper..

thanks alot :)

Teddy,

It all depends on your own technical abilities! If you can get your head around the complexities and control systems they are cheap to run as the parts are not that expensive and only generally need replacing once every 100K miles or so. If you have to go to the main dealer then they can be very expensive. There are lots of people out there who will help you if you do need technical help. See Main Page - RangieWiki or Range Rover P38/4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes or rangie.com - The Range Rover Knowledge Base - by Matthew Reeve - Sponsored by bigyellowdesign I have had two classics for a total of 20 years and both were rot-boxes. The P38 2.5 DSE with the BMW engine that I now have is a different quality altogether but much more complex if things do go wrong. I try and stay ahead of the game by changing bits before they go, based on general information concerning most failure rates. The only criticism I had was lack of pwer and acceleration but fitting a power upgrade box http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/pdf/LEMarch04.pdf cured that. I love the P38 but am lucky enough to be able to do my own maintenance. Richard
 
thanks for your last post richard, unfortunatley I am not very mechanical friendly and yup of the dse i tested today i had a lot of trouble getting it to go, I had to put my foot right to the floor so yup a power box would be an ideal resolve. I will have a look at the link you just gave and see what i make of it. Ok I have just read that article and I am totaly impressed and I may get the DSE model afterall and purchase the powerbox, Only thing is I wouldnt have a clue how to install it but I may know a man who might.
How long have you had your DSE for richard ? and have you had any major problems with it ?

Teddy
 
If you’re not technically minded, and to be honest I'm in the same boat, you shouldn’t be put off by the Range Rover.

Most important thing for you is to find a local LR specialist that can carry out any work on your RR. Reason being is that an official Land Rover garage charge a fortune in labour costs and charge full price for parts.

If you can find a specialist ask them what their labour costs are as they are more likely to be far more competitive i.e. £50 per hour as opposed to £85 for LR.

The most important three words with Range Rovers.....Service, Service, Service! Firstly, ensure you buy a RR with a full service history that you can check the mileage and all the work that’s been carried out on the RR and when. Some parts may have been changed but if they were changed 10 years ago, they maybe coming up for renewal!

The 2.5 DSE or DHSE is probably what you want. But if you want more power and smoother driving, it’s going to have to be a petrol model.

Not sure? Go and drive both a petrol and diesel. You will see and feel the difference. But of course if money and budget running costs are an issue the diesel option maybe your only choice.

If you service your RR properly when it needs it, you will enjoy trouble free driving and ownership. When you buy it, make sure you change the battery, upgrade the alternator from 80amp to 120amp and ensure you change the RF receiver if it hasn’t been done to part number YWY500170 as the original part number Part # AFR1953 doesn’t work and it will drain your battery and get you stranded at car parks where CCTV systems are installed.

If you’re buying from a garage insist they carry out the above upgrades before you buy or knock them down in price. The RF receiver upgrade is essential.

Also make sure your RR comes with two handsets, and check both actually open the car. If there aren’t two handsets, they need to order a new one at the cost of £115 each.
 
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