Drum brakes binding

Hello,

I took my rebuilt landy for it's MOT yesterday and it failed on the drum brakes binding. I replaced the shoes a week or so ago, and one wheel does consistently bind. The adjuster is already at it's minimum.

I think it's the edge facing the wheel that's binding, as it gets worse as you tighten the wheel nuts.

I've read around and the solution tends to be take it for a long drive and it'll be fine. That's not an option for me really as it doesn't have an MOT or tax, and I can't get MOT until brakes aren't binding.... (bit of chicken or the egg).

I've read a couple of people suggest filing down the brakes shoes (I'd try the edge facing the wheel). Does this sound a good idea?

I'm quite keen to get it on the road again, I did enjoy the drive to and from the test centre, even came across another landy to wave at!

Are you absolutely sure they went back together correct?

I had this and it turned out I had out the shoes in wrong

Yea.....I also searched online to make sure:
I found this :

Does that look right (mine has the lock on the bottom with bolts in as well) ? (It's an image online, not mine, but mine is set up the same way)
The adjuster works - just at the moment as the shoes are new so they are at the lowest on the adjuster.

In what way were your shoes on wrong?

@gsworks might be able to advise...

Forgive me for vagueness as my more recent scenario was sorting a handbrake drum but: Certainly on a handbrake drum you can incorrectly fit the pads wrong so you end up with the angled leading edge of the pad material at the wrong end. This can cause binding and odd brake bite. Check that you have the leading and trailing correct

With the rear drum brakes, there's a peg on the leading shoe which is where it meets the adjuster. As there's only one adjuster per wheel (I think 110's have two), there's only one place out of four (two shoes per wheel) that the leading shoe can go (if you get it on the wrong wheel, then the peg would be on the opposite side of the shoe to where the adjuster is).

It's possible I got the trailing shoe the wrong way around (i think). I'll check that a little later once this rain has stopped.

I just managed to get out for a few minutes in between showers. The trailing shoe seems symmetrical, so i don't think that's it. I tried removing it and put the wheel back on, and it still binds so it seems it is at least the leading shoe that's binding, or both.

I can't remember exactly what I did but a mate spotted it, it was to do with the spring arrangement

I've found the rebuild manual and noticed two differences....I can't see how they will change things, but will try

1st the top spring is upside down on mine (still has long end in right place....but will turn it the other way tomorrow)

Second is the plate at the bottom is screwed to the trailing shoe.....again I cant see how that will change things but will see

Edit: also could be bottom spring :

http://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/92904-im-at-my-whitts-end-with-my-drum-brakes/#comment-804726
Will check that out tomorrow also

Have you had the drums checked (on a lathe if you can get access to one) to make sure the inside surface is perfectly round?

I had a similar problem after changing mine before i went to discs - tuned out to be the crappy Britpart shoes - changed to mintex and it was fine.

So today I have had it apart again, and it's improved but not perfect.

I've checked springs are the right way around, and also that the tennis racket shaped thing is screwed to the trailing shoe.

I also gave the hub face and the corresponding bit inside brake drum a rub down, just to make sure that's not causing any issues.

I currently have one ok wheel, and one not so ok wheel (i can move it by hand now, but it's noticeably more difficult than the "good side"

Swapping drums between the two doesn't fix the issue, so I think that rules out the drums themselves.

Both sides have had new bearmach shoes and new brake cyllinders, as well as nearly new springs (i replace them a couple of years ago).

Don't know if it will make any difference to you, or even if I should do it but I always put a dab of copper-slip on the back plate where the shoes sit, saves wear if nowt else.

In your picture I can't see the (bottom) pivot to shoe retaining piece, which is bolted to the rear (trailing) shoe.
Without that the shoe would be likely to be pushed up to the top of the drum and bind.
Fit one and you will probably find that your troubles are over.
(I had a similar problem with my Series I many years ago!!

Oldseadog said:

In your picture I can't see the (bottom) pivot to shoe retaining piece, which is bolted to the rear (trailing) shoe.
Without that the shoe would be likely to be pushed up to the top of the drum and bind.
Fit one and you will probably find that your troubles are over.
(I had a similar problem with my Series I many years ago!!

Click to expand...

Thanks - the pictures aren't mine, but they match how mine is currently setup, with the addition of the retainer thing.

Daft question, but is the retaining ring on the correct (trailing) shoe?

And another - the top spring is attached to the shoe, not the adjuster?

Yep, ring is on the trailing shoe, the bottom spring is coming from from the inside to the outside, and the top spring (new) is between the peg on the leading shoe and the peg on the backplate, running behind the adjuster. the leading shoe has resistance when you pull it, if it was on the adjuster it would not have any resistance

I'd swap the shoes from the other side to prove that they aren't badly made. It does happen.

I took it back in and mot guy was happy now given they are new shoes and need bedding in.

Very happy for it to be back on the road, I will keep an eye on things though to to check they bed in properly