DRIVE TRAIN Fault need help (TD4 hippo)

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Nova Sport

Nova Sport

New Member
Posts
4
Location
kent
Hello all.
We own a 02 TD4 Automatic in 4x4 mode still.
However about a month ago it started to make a series of heavy clunks making the car lurch forward around the chatam hill and fort Amherst.

We stopped in Halfords and when we went to pull off again it wouldn't not move in any gear under any power.

There's no burning smell no screeches or whirring it just wont go.

When being recovered the wheels just wouldn't turn .

Any idea what it could be?

Its done 162k kept it in as gold nick as i can.

What can people give me advice wise I need all I can get...im a sodding 17 year old Part race mechanic

Cheers
Nova
 
hi mate , welcome to the forum from another kent owner

also got a td4 2002 auto, 190,000 miles

get the vcu and prop off the car I feel would be the first port of call

has the gearbox been maintained that u know of and the rest of the service history

brakes ok , handbrake etc

I'm in swanley and happy to help all I can if ur quite local to me and got a hawkeye which I'm happy to read any fault codes for u

know what it's like when u first buy a car

hopefully the vcu hasn't seized up , are all the tyres the same make model size etc
 
VCUs don't actually seize as such, but they do stiffen until they have virtually no slip at all, which is basically the same thing.

If the wheels won't turn even when not in gear, sounds like the IRD - or maybe the diff?
Once the prop is off you'll have a better idea as either the front or the rear won't turn.
 
Not quite clear on your symptoms.

Are you saying that you put it in gear, lift the clutch, the engine does not stall, but the car doesn't move? If this is the case, you have stripped the splines on the gearbox/IRD connection. You'll need to strip it down to find out if its the gearbox or IRD splines that are knackered to determine what needs replacing - probably the IRD. You're car is basically immobile till you get the replacement parts.

If you saying that you put it in gear, lift the clutch, the engine will stall because the car won't move. Then there are some gears in there that are jammed not mated - or pieces of gears that are jamming up the mechanism. If you try and dislodge it with the engine - you will likely fracture your IRD case and it can then not be used as an exchange unit for a reconditioned one. If you are lucky you can remove the props and rear pinion off the IRD and fit a blanking plate to it and run 2WD till you sort a replacement. It depends what's been knackered inside. It could really do with taking off and splitting to make sure all the 2WD stuff is still safe and servicable.

Its possible it could be the rear diff or brakes, but from your previous description of heavy clunks, it does sound slam dunk IRD failure - caused by mismatch of tyres, mismatch of tyre pressures of an overly tight VCU.
 
As an update to the above - if its the first scenario, it is definitely (99%) the splines - however, I do recall a thread a while back where someone removed their props and the car wouldn't drive after that. It turned out that the IRD had been frigged somehow, or the front driveshafts (I forget which) that meant that the car had been running RWD. I think that's the only time I've heard of a RWD Freelander. But if your's was similarly RWD (that OP didn't realise his was) then it could be the crown/pinion gears have now gone rather than the splines.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Not quite clear on your symptoms.

Are you saying that you put it in gear, lift the clutch, the engine does not stall, but the car doesn't move? If this is the case, you have stripped the splines on the gearbox/IRD connection. You'll need to strip it down to find out if its the gearbox or IRD splines that are knackered to determine what needs replacing - probably the IRD. You're car is basically immobile till you get the replacement parts.

If you saying that you put it in gear, lift the clutch, the engine will stall because the car won't move. Then there are some gears in there that are jammed not mated - or pieces of gears that are jamming up the mechanism. If you try and dislodge it with the engine - you will likely fracture your IRD case and it can then not be used as an exchange unit for a reconditioned one. If you are lucky you can remove the props and rear pinion off the IRD and fit a blanking plate to it and run 2WD till you sort a replacement. It depends what's been knackered inside. It could really do with taking off and splitting to make sure all the 2WD stuff is still safe and servicable.

Its possible it could be the rear diff or brakes, but from your previous description of heavy clunks, it does sound slam dunk IRD failure - caused by mismatch of tyres, mismatch of tyre pressures of an overly tight VCU.
Click to expand...
Op says it's an auto.
 
When you put an auto into any gear you should feel power being transferred to the drive train or a slight lurch. If this is not happening, then it is possible your gear selector is out of alignment or stuck or the cable has dropped off.
Take the under tray off and you will see a cable with a spring on it, iirc. There is also an inhibitor on the top of the auto box, but if this was out of line the car shouldn't start.
Also check under the selector in the car to see if all the wiring is still in place.
Look at the easy stuff first.
Mike
 
="Nova Sport, post: 3792830, member: 131541"
Its not my car btw it is my dads I am just the emchanic
Click to expand...
I get lost by the modern terms ? is this a sort of pokemon type Counterstrike / battlefield etc thing ? :rolleyes:

A sort of 'fixer' taking 'E' ??? ;)

LOL :D

Hope you get it sorted - it is rather a huge pit to dive into on the first 'issue'

Joe
 
Cheers Joe spelling errors

Got the car today, it drives but clunks a hell of a lot and stops dead at 20 if you let off the throttle .

IRD?
 
Nova Sport said:
Cheers Joe spelling errors

Got the car today, it drives but clunks a hell of a lot and stops dead at 20 if you let off the throttle .

IRD?
Click to expand...
Or rear diff or both.
It sounds like the IRD's output pinion has stripped it's teath so now they jamb instead of meshing correctly. This is caused by a host of different causes, but odd or incorrectly placed tyres is the common one. This poor tyre maintenance causes the VCU to stiffen, overloading the IRD and diff.
 
Jack up one of the rear wheels and spin it forwards and backwards. If there's a loud clunk/a lot of free play where the shaft enters the gearbox at the front of the car, your IRD is probably toast.

Options are to pull the shaft and replace the output pinion with a blanking plate, or do it properly, pull the IRD out of the gearbox and have it rebuilt, not a huge amount of money. Freelanders happily run in front wheel drive mode once the shaft and pinion have been pulled out - but a lot of people will treat the car with extreme suspicion if you do that - with good reason :)
 
Hi guys.
Sorry for not updating college is a pig
Basicly I took the IRD Off and it was still kinda ok, teeth was a bit...Well used but ok.
Pulled the box and Lord and behold spin one of the CV joints it's solid, spin the other and it's free as hell.

The fluid was Brown and covered in metal so new box and awating to install it .
 
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