Door shims

I fitted new doors and bottom seals. Now the doors don't shut without a realy hard slam. The car is a 93 200Tdi. The new (brand new) doors are Puma type.

Moving the catch isn't enough to sort it, so I'm going to fit shims to the hinges on the bulkhead.

Is this something that is done on the TD5 & Puma models with the bigger bottom seal?


Val.

my doors have never fitted since replacing them. I resorted to filing the striker bolt holes to move it around a bit more so the door locked.

Didn't know they had bigger bottom seals. Is the bottom seal easily detachable? If so you could take it off and put originals on. If not, shims should help.

Al2O3 said:

Didn't know they had bigger bottom seals. Is the bottom seal easily detachable? If so you could take it off and put originals on. If not, shims should help.

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The older Defender 200/300s bottom door seal is not much good. The TD5/Puma seal is significantly better. I could take them off and run without, but the draught you get is the whole reason I fitted them in the first place.

Val. h said:

The older Defender 200/300s bottom door seal is not much good. The TD5/Puma seal is significantly better. I could take them off and run without, but the draught you get is the whole reason I fitted them in the first place.

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I replaced my doors 3 or 4 years ago and put new bottom seals on. (1996 300Tdi) Nothing wrong with my seals

I recently replaced all the seals on my 200Tdi 90 doors, took the chance and used britpart even though some say they are no good.
Passenger door shuts nice right from the off, drivers side really needed a good shove to get it closed, even after multiple adjustments. I have found in the 2 months since fitting the door is getting easier to close, Lets face it, the seal is compressed nearly all the time and getting into shape as it were.

Funnily enough I have replaced my door seals today, and while at is tried to get the catch to hold with less of a gap. Since the 90 was off the road for about 3 months having work done, the offside front door doesn't close properly. Like others here, I fit a new striker, but the door catches but then pulls back about half and inch (it doesn't open), negating the new seals. I tried moving the striker but it wont go back/in enough. It all seemed okay before I had it on axle stands for a while. I can't imagine there would have been a twist in the body, but it is really annoying. Any other thoughts, except filing the striker holes?

I still can't fathom this. It must be straight forward. I don't really want to elongate the holes if it fit okay previously.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

As far as I’m aware it’s same cab/door opening ? Take seals off u may need to replace with same year door seals I’m interested because I’m about to rebuild our 300 and have the later doors to replace the tin worm effected old ones so let me know how u get on bud

gren said:

As far as I’m aware it’s same cab/door opening ? Take seals off u may need to replace with same year door seals I’m interested because I’m about to rebuild our 300 and have the later doors to replace the tin worm effected old ones so let me know how u get on bud

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Yep, I fitted the Puma doors to my 93 200Tdi. No problem fitting them. It was when I added the TD5/Puma bottom seals. This proved too much.

Now a month later the doors shut ok.

I've had a really good look to see just what was going on when the door was shut. I discovered that part of the problem was the trim I'd fitted to prevent the door edge being damaged on walls etc when opened. Trimming this made some difference.

I also looked that the main door seal. At the bottom front of the frame/opening. Along with the new seal, which goes up the front and back of the door about three inches. Here I found that there was a lot of rubber being compressed. So with a stanly knife I trimmed the main door seal, by making a single cut about three inches up the front edge of the tubeular part.
This relieved the pressure sufficiently enough to allow the door to close more easily.

Time has also made things easier. As was mentioned above. The seals do settle, I no longer need to give the door a big slam so the glass/winding mech strikes the inside of the door, but do still need to give a posetive pull. I'm sure thouch that this will become easier over time.




Val.