Door locking problems

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Gaz5535

Gaz5535

Active Member
Posts
111
Location
United Kingdom
Hello, I have been having problems with the central locking system# on my 'S' plate 38 when I press the key fob it doesn't lock the drivers door. So I have been locking it with the ignition key for the last year. Of late it has been very difficult to lock, so I have been squirting some ptfe WD 40 type stuff in the lock with the tube on the can. But it is not really helping now, has anybody got any ideas how to sort either the central locking system,# or the lock?#
Gaz
 
Gaz5535 said:
Hello, I have been having problems with the central locking system# on my 'S' plate 38 when I press the key fob it doesn't lock the drivers door. So I have been locking it with the ignition key for the last year. Of late it has been very difficult to lock, so I have been squirting some ptfe WD 40 type stuff in the lock with the tube on the can. But it is not really helping now, has anybody got any ideas how to sort either the central locking system,# or the lock?#
Gaz
Click to expand...
I take it the FOB unlocks the car? Check the ignition switch, if the little flap doesn't close when the key is removed, it inhibits locking, usually accompanied by a "Key in ignition" message on the dash which is easily missed.
 
Right, here is ths the update as promised. The fob will only lock the two n/side & rear o/side doors. Leaving the tailgate & the drivers door unlocked, but the key locks every lock. There is no warning on the dashboard, when you take the key from the ignition switch & the orifice to the lock is closed.
Gaz
 
Gaz5535 said:
Right, here is ths the update as promised. The fob will only lock the two n/side & rear o/side doors. Leaving the tailgate & the drivers door unlocked, but the key locks every lock. There is no warning on the dashboard, when you take the key from the ignition switch & the orifice to the lock is closed.
Gaz
Click to expand...
So the drivers door lock motor is fecked. The tailgate will lock when the drivers door works.
 
Datatek said:
I take it the FOB unlocks the car? Check the ignition switch, if the little flap doesn't close when the key is removed, it inhibits locking, usually accompanied by a "Key in ignition" message on the dash which is easily missed.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information about the little flap, i used a little WD40 in the ignition lack and it cured both the "key in Ignition" message and meant I didn't have to jiggle the key in the lock before starting.

1 issue down several to go.
 
Datatek said:
So the drivers door lock motor is fecked. The tailgate will lock when the drivers door works.
Click to expand...
Ah, I see, so ate they avaliable nice and cheap, to keep the theme going of not spending a lot on the old girl! Is it much of a job? Oh, it wouldn't be a micro switch would it? I did read somewhere that they play up!
 
Last edited:
Gaz5535 said:
Ah, I see, so ate they avaliable nice and cheap, to keep the theme going of not spending a lot on the old girl! Is it much of a job? Oh, it wouldn't be a micro switch would it? I did read somewhere that they play up!
Click to expand...

No they are not very cheap, £150 ish. No it's not much of a job and the micro switches are not available on their own before you ask.:)
 
look for MGF door locks, and compare the pictures to P38 locks (much cheaper). Make sure you get the right type with three microswitches. The motors & microswitches will fit inside the P38 lock mechanism if you want to refurb yours.

If you feel really creative you can also disable the super lock so you never get that problem.

Edit: see this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/3180154-post12.html
 
Last edited:
tomcat59alan said:
No they are not very cheap, £150 ish. No it's not much of a job and the micro switches are not available on their own before you ask.:)
Click to expand...
Ah, ok I will have to have a look round for one then. Evidently there is an RS component micro switch which is identical# for under £2.00.
Gaz
 
Ah, ok I will have to have a look round for one then. Evidently there is an RS component micro switch which is identical# for under £2.00.Gaz
 
pwood999 said:
look for MGF door locks, and compare the pictures to P38 locks (much cheaper). Make sure you get the right type with three microswitches. The motors & microswitches will fit inside the P38 lock mechanism if you want to refurb yours.

If you feel really creative you can also disable the super lock so you never get that problem.

Edit: see this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/3180154-post12.html
Click to expand...
Ah, right, now you have given me food for thought! So is it the 'motor' that is burnt out or the micro swithces that need replacing?
 
Ok, I have just bought an O/S MGF (drivers door) lock off ebay for £17.00 including postage! So let's hope it fits when it turns up, I will report back when fitted.
Gaz
 
Take P38 lock out first.
Then compare both on bench side by side.
If wire colours don't match write down the differences to make re-wiring easier.
Open the locks up & check for broken plastic bits, etc.
Connect continuity tester to microswitches & check manual operation.
Check motors using 9V battery . . if you're careful you can operate the locks on the bench without all the bits popping out.

Then . . . rebuild yourself a good working lock using the bits . . easy.
 
pwood999 said:
Take P38 lock out first.
Then compare both on bench side by side.
If wire colours don't match write down the differences to make re-wiring easier.
Open the locks up & check for broken plastic bits, etc.
Connect continuity tester to microswitches & check manual operation.
Check motors using 9V battery . . if you're careful you can operate the locks on the bench without all the bits popping out.

Then . . . rebuild yourself a good working lock using the bits . . easy.
Click to expand...
Thanks P, I am well armed with information, lets see what turns up in the post.
 
Well just reporting back to all of you that gelled with nailing the door lock problem. I fitted the lock this afternoon, & guess what it works like a dream! I might even tear the old one apart and see if it can be fixed.
Gaz
 
Sorry if this was already mentioned but check your RF receiver is the right unit. Should have 2 boards at right-angles inside. Mozz put a picture up somewhere with the part-code. Wrong one can lead to burnt out lock motors.
 
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