Doing the impossble? Cummins 6BT into a 90!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

NRS91

Active Member
Posts
189
Location
Macclesfield, UK
Well after a very busy three week christmas break from uni im nearing the end of this project and the guys at uni suggested i do a thread on the conversion for Landyzone so here it goes:

15miles into the Harper 4x4 trip to Bala my recon injection pump failed, leaving me and my cousin at the side of the road as the rest of the convoy continued on. This coupled with the turbos and heads i demolished in the search for power from a Disco 200TDi engine lead me to search for something abit more durable and bigger.

I saw a 110 6bt hicap on youtube and researched the conversion. I found a common belief in people that had done the conversion that the ZF S5-42 gearbox that come with the Cummins (from a Daf 45) couldnt be close coupled with a lt230 transfer box and that even it could it would leave a stupidly small rear prop.

A few days later i found myself flying up the motorway in the van with engine and box firmly strapped to the back determined to make it fit into a 90.

When we got it into the workshop we measured up the situation. theres roughly 59" from the front x-member to the transfer box input seal, and the engine and box were 63" from the front pulley to the end of the geabox casing so something had to give.

We first weighed up moving the rad and the front x-member forward, and on hindsight im glad that strength worrys prevented us doing so. This meant we would end up moving the transfer box back 5" and down 1" to mate with the truck engine and box.

Other issues with this conversion are:
Mounting the engine
Connecting the two boxes together
Selecting gears
Converting to 12v
Supplying Vacuum for the Brakes
Air assist clutch
PAS pump puts out twice the flow and pressure of a LR one
Bottom water pipe is pointing downwards so plumbing is impossible

I mounted the engine using 200tdi Defender mounts believe it or not! I redrilled the long drivers side mount top hole, fitted a new rubber and bolted it on. for the drivers side the mount needed to be custom made but its very close to the land rover one. The hole needed to be 10mm further away from the block and 1" back from the block holes. For this i used a lifelong friend of my mothers who is a fabricator as i wanted it to be right and he does beautiful metalwork. Where the transfer box is now mounted has given me prop lengths of 800mm on the front and 545mm on the rear.

To connect the two gearboxes i got a FTC5090 input shaft from Ashcrofts and took it, along with the prop flange off the ZF S5-42 to my mate who runs Metcalfe Engineering. He machined them both and pressed them together with 10ton of force and welded them up into an impressive and well made adaptor shaft. This fitted like a glove and alowed us to make the brackets to brace the gearboxes together and to hold the transfer box to the chassis on the original front output mount.

Making a gear linkage set up to allow me to select gears caused much of a headache. Using parts from the DAF 45 shifter would of meant having a custom tunnel and a gearlever next to the handbrake so we had to think of another way as i wasnt paying silly money for a shifter from a dodge stateside. The solution was to extend the ball of the LT77 downwards and have it bolted to an adapter plate. This has worked well though the narrow gate might not be to everyones taste it will be a godsend for the middle passenger! Just need an R380 tunnel now.

The conversion to 12V was relatively easy. I part-exchanged the 24v starter for a new 12v one off a non-turbo DAF 45, however this needs to be spaced from the bellhousing by 1cm to prevent it being in constant mesh. I did this with washers for the time being but i will get a plate made up eventually. The other part of the conversion is the alternator. For this i used a LRB 381 Transit alternator with the vacuum pump on the rear to work my brakes. The cheapest i found was at Manchester Auto Electrics.

The air assist clutch requires on-board air, so i piped up the compressor on the engine to a D2 limiter valve (makes the compressor blow off at the desired pressure) and i piped the air clutch to the air tank and its nice n light (though currently suffering leak back so you have to be quick). It also needed a series 2/3 109 brake master cylinder (non servo) as its a 1" bore similar to the Daf 45 clutch master.

For the PAS i fitted a hydraulic flow limiter with 3/4BSP connectors (the 1/2BSP would work fine and be cheaper) this splits the pressure and flow so the PAS box doesnt blow a seal (though i need to turn it up as its abit heavy at the mo).

The bottom water pipe i had made up by my local custom exhaust manufacturer JP Exhausts (who also built the stack) and as per usual they did a cracking job.

So besides the pipes, throttle cable, tunnel and clutch reserviour thats all you need to put a silly engine in your own landy ;)

Heres the accompanying pics: www.photobucket.com/LR90Cummins6BT

Id like to thank my cousin Sam as he was a great help in getting this done (does help his hands and arms are half the size of mine) and Richard Metcalfe for making the connector shaft when everyone else said they couldnt!

EDIT: Heres the vid of it: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViLyYl7Ak6M"]The Big Purple One Land Rover 90 Cummins 6BT conversion walk around - YouTube[/ame]
 
Last edited:
not been down the road just yet lucifus just sideways round the field...
lol need a new high flow elecy lift pump and the items i listed at the end then i can get the engineers report done and hit the road :D

n tar pete!
 
it would be easier propshaft wise in a disco... dno about the mounts or where to put half the stuff you need in the conversion lol
i hope to get it somewhere near road worthy tomorrow!
 
Have a look on my website there is a pic of my old one, I believe I did the first ever conversion in 2000 and yes you can connect the lt230 to the zf5-42
 
Last edited:
When converting to 12v you keep the 24v starter and use a bosch parallel start relay(as found on old merc diesel cars) Gives real good starting
 
i asked a fair few people who done the conversion and they said you couldnt direct connect them like that... i spose were both proof the the contary

was yours a 110 or is it the 6x6 in the other pics?

i like how you did the water pipe on the bottom... must of cost a fortune though?

ah thanks for the info i never knew that! ill bare that in mind for the future... wish id known about that when i started but at least its a spanking new starter now lol
 
The cummins in the picture was the 6x6 I made, so it started as a 110 then 6x6 then the cummins.
I have a machine shop so made all parts in house including the one off silicon hoses which I also made in house.
As for coupling I made a gearbox endcap from solid aluminum , so if you didnt want to strip the box and had access to a machine shop etc I suppose it is impossible
 
im lucky as i know alot of useful people... of course being useful comes at a price... but for what i wanted and in the time frame i think it was reasonable pricing.
all n all it could of been done by now if christmas and new year hadnt got in the way lol... can never get the parts lol

i would like a neater solution to the water pipes in purple silicone but ive spent enough for now and the make do system is holding pressure so cant complain

i like the 110 6x6 did it have a perentie cab?
 
I made the cab...didnt want to say that after my other posts!
What ratio is your transfer box you need 1 to 1 , with the 1.2 disco ratio you can pull away cleanly in 5th fully loaded !
You can get a spring for the injector pump to give you more rpms, cheapest place is a bosch / diesel specialist about £10
 
its on 1.2 disco at the mo... will probs whack my 35s on until i can afford the 1:1.03 gear (£250 odd from ashcrofts)

that the 3200rpm spring? how easy is it to fit?

lol i dont know why u wouldnt want to say it... looks well... i like the truck its like a british version of the perentie!

what axles did you run?
 
Salisbury all round inc front, lost 6x6 when it went cummins cos there wasnt enough room.
Big wheels + cummins=broken axles and ujs!
 
good point about the 6x6 and the cummins length
maybe a reverse of the foley system could work?
prop in at the top then the two axles joined nose to nose with a prop?

and true about the torque with big wheels. but i havent got the money for the higher ratios yet... and i worked out with a 1.2 box and 265/75s the top end would be 75mph which isnt too bad
what did you get out of yours with the 1.2 box?

what rpm spring is the one youd recommend? and how do you fit them?

what throttle cable did you use?
 
pictures nicholas!

and pressbrake, you said you made your own hose? would you be albe to do a couple for some beer tokens? ive never been happy with my top and bottom water hoses in my series TDI. i want one piece.
 
Back
Top