Dixon-Bate 'type' tow hitch problem...pics for advice

As some will know I got a new crossmember fitted on Monday. The tow hitch was taken off the old one but it seems the 'back plate bit' and I guess the tow hitch itself was not off a Land Rover and was secured to the xmember by drilling non standard holes to bolt on to the old xmember.
You can see on the pics the threaded holes that accept bolts to secure it to the xmember and my tow hitch is not right. I only have 2 bolts securing my tow hitch so I cant really use it as it is.
I only use the tow hitch (at the moment) for pulling a trailer or popping a rope over to recover cars stuck in snow.

Can I get a replacement 'back plate' only to secure to the Landy using the 4 bolt holes and put the height adjustable tow ball bit onto that? Or is it likely the adjustable height frame wont fit?

My other option is to ditch the 'Dixon-Bate'.... remove the existing tow ball and secure that to lower bolt holes (the one the hitch is secured to it now with the struts to the chassis)

I value your comments and advice :blabla: plus any suggestions on sites etc I can get a new back plate.... the option of height adjustment would be handy but not assential.

I see the problem....your using a wooden spoon to try and attach it

Sirus said:

I see the problem....your using a wooden spoon to try and attach it

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I left myself wide open for that I was tryin to be a pro but as its Thursday and curry night you caught me in between The spoon is circa 1995 off a Wok 1 I believe

You appear to have a dixon bate adjustable jobbie bolted on to a standard towbar. Why not just ditch the dixon bate bit for now and bolt the ball onto the plate underneath it?

hughesy said:

You appear to have a dixon bate adjustable jobbie bolted on to a standard towbar. Why not just ditch the dixon bate bit for now and bolt the ball onto the plate underneath it?

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Or ditch the standard bit and bolt the dicky bates back on.

int there a plate missing from the back of the adjuster frame ? - that plate will then bolt onto the chassis using those 4 pre-made holes

will go take some piccies of mine shortly

Sean said:

int there a plate missing from the back of the adjuster frame ? - that plate will then bolt onto the chassis using those 4 pre-made holes

will go take some piccies of mine shortly

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Looks upside down to me??

Possible its upside down as red says.
Otherwise get some extra tabs welded and drilled to fit the x-member holes. That way you dont have to ditch nothing.
Any decent welder could do it in ten minutes and would only charge beer tokens.
You could drill the holes yourself.

redhand said:

Looks upside down to me??

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hmmm think your right .... this is what mine looks like, as fitted in the factory 20+ years ago

yur tin hats a bit battered

Sirus said:

yur tin hats a bit battered

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that's me reversing sensor !

Sean said:

that's me reversing sensor !

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I thought it was the new GTX condom ( for the heavy worker ) lol


.

Thanks for the replies.... I took the slider off this morning and took a pic of the tow hitch frame and how it is secured.
As you can see 4 bolts secure it to the tow bracket below the xmember. I dont really want to start drilling into my new xmember.
I have 4 threaded holes on the xmember and 4 on the tow hitch frame.
My worry is any 'lever effect' if the slider was moved up to the top pin. However..... if I have the slider on the 2nd pin hole from the bottom the strain would be seem to be taken equally by the 4 existing bolts and I would not get any 'lever' effect that could twist it?

Would that be safe on that setting or should I have it secured to the xmember as well? As Hughsey says... it seems I have a Dixon-Bate bolted onto a standard tow bar?

Just looking for a safe solution..... getting a plate welded on to secure to the xmember is an option, or just take it off and put the tow ball straight onto the standard tow bar. Thanks for taking the time to post pics of your tow hitch Sean, much appreciated and all other comments.

Looking at the spacing and size of the top holes, I think you might have a Dixon Bate bracket for a Series Land Rover rather than a 90.

Just had a look at mine and your is upside down.
The four bolts you have at the bottom screw into the crossmember. The two you have at the top bolt to the stays that run underneath.
No drilling or modification required. Just turn it round and bolt it on properly. Sorted

Shifty1962 said:

Just had a look at mine and your is upside down.
The four bolts you have at the bottom screw into the crossmember. The two you have at the top bolt to the stays that run underneath.
No drilling or modification required. Just turn it round and bolt it on properly. Sorted

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Not quiet as simple as that. Yes it is mounted upside down but to mount properly he will need to remove the fixed towhitch and get the missing bits for the DB hitch. There are at least 2 lengths of angle iron missing, one bolts to the cross member and the other bolts to the bottom of the hitch and to the 2 diagonal braces that lead to the chassis. Assuming that the existing diagonal braces are the correct length and the ends are angled correctly to fit the bottom angle iron support.

This is what he should have. http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/SHO...p_Plate_Kit_-_Defender_110_from_XA159807.html

Just took a look and measured up the holes/bolts etc.... if I turn it upside down the only holes it will fit in the xmember means I couldn't open the rear door and holes on the plate dont line up to the tow bar. The problem seems it is not a full Dixon-Bate hitch/tow set or a factory fitted job. It seems to be a cock up job bolted onto an existing non standard tow bar. Looking at the pic on Paddocks I doubt mine is off a Defender (that seems to have 2 different size holes to fit into the xmember) and as mentioned, maybe its off a Series Land Rover.
At least I know.... I take a ride out to see a tow bar fitter and get some advice and can always just bolt a tow ball onto the existing tow bar which seems to be a cost effective option for now. Many thanks again

MrJC said:

Just took a look and measured up the holes/bolts etc.... if I turn it upside down the only holes it will fit in the xmember means I couldn't open the rear door and holes on the plate dont line up to the tow bar. The problem seems it is not a full Dixon-Bate hitch/tow set or a factory fitted job. It seems to be a cock up job bolted onto an existing non standard tow bar. Looking at the pic on Paddocks I doubt mine is off a Defender (that seems to have 2 different size holes to fit into the xmember) and as mentioned, maybe its off a Series Land Rover.
At least I know.... I take a ride out to see a tow bar fitter and get some advice and can always just bolt a tow ball onto the existing tow bar which seems to be a cost effective option for now. Many thanks again

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it only fits into 2 holes on the crossmember, the lower 2 (of the 4 hole plate) bolts to the missing angle iron that bolts underneath the crossmember.

Go and have another look at the pics sean posted the angle iron is clearly visible.

redhand said:

Not quiet as simple as that. Yes it is mounted upside down but to mount properly he will need to remove the fixed towhitch and get the missing bits for the DB hitch. There are at least 2 lengths of angle iron missing, one bolts to the cross member and the other bolts to the bottom of the hitch and to the 2 diagonal braces that lead to the chassis. Assuming that the existing diagonal braces are the correct length and the ends are angled correctly to fit the bottom angle iron support.

This is what he should have. Adjustable Drop Plate Kit - Defender 110 from XA159807

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Yeah now you mention it I have the angle bolted to the underside of the crossmember.