Discovery 1 V8 Cummins 6BT Conversion

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Alex458

Member
Posts
44
Location
Hereford
Hi all!

I’ve recently joined but owned my disco for about 4 years now.

It’s been mainly standard bar some special track copies and customised exhaust (ok the rear silencer fell off )

So now I’ve decided to make it how I want it finally!

Plans are...
Bigger tyres/steel modulars
2” or maybe 4” lift
Flexi arches
Front winch and tubular bumper
Rear tubular bumper
Make a custom exhaust
Higher lift camshaft
Weld up rusty bits
Replace bonnet
Led or hid spotlights
And maybe just maybe turbocharge or supercharge it!

So how does it look atm..
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First day I bought her for £500 spares or repair. Why was it spares or repair?? Flaking paint on the back door and a questionable front inner wing repair! Everything else was spotless corrosion wise and had 10 months mot, Needless to say I diddnt even haggle.


Some more current pics will follow tomorrow :)
 
Awesome I considered upgrading to a D2 but couldn’t really find a nice genuine one that hasn’t been bodged up so decided to stick with my D1

And Not £700 but £500! Shes an ES too with all the toys, Heated front screen, seats etc.

When I went to look at it the advert diddnt even have a picture and I couldn’t believe this was the one for sale.

Its aquired some scars since that picture however but will be udating tomorrow with pics and explanations haha.
 
£500 ? Even better LOL

I was lucky with my TD5 a guy had advertised it on the bay and mentioned he might swap for a more economical family car. I spoke with him on the phone and offered to drive down to see the D2 and to let him see my Merc. We both were quite happy and I travelled back home in the D2 and he kept the Merc. I was dreading the MOT. Was ready to be getting the welder out etc but the chassis is solid. It flew through it's MOT.
 
If I were doing another V8 build I would be pulling the engine out for a complete rebuild and squirting it, the cam will be 100% knackered by 75,000 miles, just the way they were I'm afraid. Forget turbo's and super chargers on rover V8s, sounds like a nice idea but a lot of money to spend on an engine that, once rebuilt and megasquirted will knock spots off pretty much everything, nice thing about megasquirt is that it waterproofs that vulnerable ignition system, that big a$$ dizzy is it's achilles heel, MS replaces that with EDIS units that don't suffer from water.

Depending on how far you want to go depends on a multitude of factors, I posted this for another lad with an itch that needs scratched, read it and understand what you are planning to do

200Tdi 90 on standard suspension and standard 235/70 16 all terrains should do all the lanes in the UK.

What you're talking about is creating a bespoke off road vehicle, one that would have potential far beyond a muddy dirt track.

Everything beyond standard is a compromise, from suspension to tyres, even the wheel rims need a bit of thought once you start to modify.

Modifications come with costs and effects which in turn lead to bigger costs and before you know it, MasterCard has you by the short and curlies for £20,000.(maybe more but i know I could easily blow £20,000 on my D1 without it changing greatly from it's current look)

Sure, things like ATB diff's or even electric/air locking diff's are nice, but far from essential.

Big knobbly tyres look fab and have the desired effect of throwing mud all over your truck to show folks you use it off road, but they tear up the lanes you drive much more than modest A/T tyres.

Roll cages can certainly save your life in the event of a roll over and will give your truck a mean an purposeful look whilst giving you somewhere to hang other non essential accessories, but you'll pay the price in fuel and vehicle weight when venturing off road.

Everything has a cost to benefit ratio, I'm not just talking about £££££ but the big picture.

Few examples.

Big suspension lift, effect is raising chassis above the axles, cost is to the detriment of your prop shaft UJs and output bearings in your transfer case, your center of gravity is raised and handling characteristics altered by the rotation of the axle, brake lines all need extended too, all of which now cost more money and time to put right, all doable of course but at extra expense.

What about those big knobbly tyres? Well they will lift the diff higher up off the ground and new aggressive tread will claw through sloppy mud, but they come at a cost too, the bigger the radius of the tyre, the further away from the swivel housing it will need to be in order to keep turning circles less than an 8X4 tipper truck as they will now be fouling the chassis & suspension on steering locks, you'll then have to radically alter all 4 wheel arches as being so far out means on articulation the tyre can no longer tuck up inside the arch and sticking outside the body means you'll need spats/arch extensions to keep them covered, but how are you getting them away from your swivel housings? Spacers? Or offset wheel rims? Costs? Then you have to think next about the longevity of your wheel bearings being put under so much more strain than designed to cope with, what about the altered gearing from the increased rolling radius, potentially want you to alter the ring and pinion ratios in both diff's to bring it back to usable gear ranges, if you do that then you'll want to upgrade your diff centers to either lockers or at the very least stronger 4 pin units.

Just a couple of things to think about, but ask yourself how far you're prepared to go before jumping in feet first.
 
Well today didn’t go as planned, I wanted to get some new pics and weld in a panel however ended up working with the electrician all day. Partly to save some cash and so the jobs got finished today we needed done.

I see what your saying dieseldog about compromises and such. I live on a farm so mainly all the things I want to do to it are based on experiences I’ve had in the truck.

For example we have a gateway on a hill that has to approached at a strange angle and the other week my other half managed to get stuck and then she managed to get wedged on the gatepost, here a winch would have had the truck out in seconds instead it turned out to be a huge task and ended in body damage too.

Im aware of the cam eating Buick derived V8 Rover used as this is my 4th Rover v8 engined vehicle lol. 2 of which I have changed cam and lifters in and I’ve seen the state they end up in.

The forced induction idea was only a thought, I would like more power out of it but like you have suggested megasquirt and a decent cam may get me where I want to be, have you personally megasquirted one dieseldog?

I have an impreza I fitted and mapped a stand-alone ecu in so I’m quite keen on the idea now you suggest it!
 
Not personally but I helped fit it out on a couple of V8s, one was just petrol the other running dual maps for petrol and LPG.

Loads of stuff out there on the WWW. to get you going though.

The Discovery I drove a few times on the old cam and again after a new standard cam, then again after it was given the megasquirt treatment, it was bloody amazing how good it was to drive, smooth, responsive and a lot more fun too.

I would add that I am not opposed to modding and fitting winches and such, I have a winch on my own truck, but I always ask peeps to think about what they are doing before throwing a wad of cash at a vehicle hen having to spend as much again to fix problems that they created with the first bout of mods.

I am watching with interest to see where you go with it.
 
So today I finished and painted the tank cradle I’ve made, I probably could have repaired the old one but in my mind it was too far gone to be worthwhile repairing.

So new one I made out of 3mm steel, I diddnt put the radiuses in the new one as it takes some some setting up on the press brake but I can’t see it being an issue.


Drawn up in cad
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Then cnc plasma cut and folded sat next to the knackered one
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And a coat of paint to finish
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Next up the rear seat belt mount/inner arch
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Tried to undo the bolt and the whole strengthening plate came out!
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So cut, cleaned up and ready to weld tomorrow :) I’ve also ordered a 2.5bore exhaust kit which basically comes with a load of bends, over axle bend, glasspack center silencer and rear silencer.

It’s a universal kit but short of the really expensive stainless exhausts there doesn’t seem to be much in the sport exhaust department for the V8 D1 and a straight pipe was not an option as I’ve been there and got the tshirt with a previous D1 V8 and it was just too loud!
 

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Arch is now all welded in and undersealed and today I managed to finish the exhaust off!

The original plan changed somewhat as I started off thinking I would fit a full universal exhaust kit with center and rear silencer and a 3” tip.

What I ended up doing was a side exit with only a center silencer and a small silencer at that! Pipe is 2.5” bore all the way.

It’s not quiet by any means but it sounds awesome, not raspy but Deep and growly
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New center silencer

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Pipe from center over axle (took some fiddling to get right!)


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And then a 90deg bend to poke it out the side!

I plan on plasma cutting a stainless circle to go round it at work as a trim and I may put a shiny tip on not sure yet.

Next up is exhaust manifold gaskets as the ticking from them is driving me nuts, last time I replaced them with the individual composite ones which I feel was a mistake.

This time I’ve got some p38 style multi layer steel twinned ones, will certainly be less fiddly to fit I’m sure just hope they last better.
 
Wow!!!! Impressive job on the metalwork matey!! It puts mine to shame! And I make a living out of metal work!!
I have just found a patch in the n/s foot well of mine... would you fancy doing it for me lol
Anyway!! Well impressed :)
 
Thanks Weldy!

I work for an agricultural engineer so I owe a lot to what I’ve learnt there!

Progress has been slow this last week it seems I’m now being plagued with an ignition issue and an LPG issue.

It all started when I thought I’d check the ignition timing, put the timing light on it to find it at 17 degrees btdc at idle so brought it back to 12 degrees (its and old cam and chain so stretched a little no doubt)

Had a tinker with the LPG too I’m running single point still but I’m using a Blos mixer which is a little like an old carb but not restrictive like regular single point mixers.

So after a tinker it was ticking over like silk revved eagerly and all sounded well so I locked the workshop and called it a night. Next morning I went down to use the truck to nip across to feed the sheep and it started up but was rough and missing on petrol, when it switched to gas it smoothed out but then I had a large backfire through the intake!

The backfire I think was down to my tweaking the lpg and going a little lean but since then I can’t get it to run right on petrol so now wondering if the tdc mark on the crank pulley is accurate?

I’ve ordered a new coil as I could hear it arcing internally and a set of plugs, contemplating doing the leads and dizzy cap too as they aren’t genuine, been fine for 3 years though

Anybody experienced similar issues?
 
Yep, I had similar on the old 3.9 Disco, Petrol fine, LPG rough, adlust to find happy medium between the two.

Better idea is to fit megajolt but easier to do full on MS installation and fit LPG injectors on manifolds as optimum mix and spark at all times can be achieved.
 
Aye I’ve always set it up in favour of the lpg to be honest, mainly because that’s what it runs on the majority of the time,

Thing is it’s never been this bad on petrol before, think I’ll try putting the timing back to where it was even though it was an indicated 17deg btdc.

Have read a few things saying the marks on the bottom pulley can be out a fair amount and I’ve never heard and detonation with the previous setup, either that or a probe down no1 cylinder to check tdc vs the mark?
 
And have looked into ms but seemed a little expensive at the moment! Forgot about megajolt so might have a look into that as running timing curves appropriate to lpg would be nice
 
Aye I’ve always set it up in favour of the lpg to be honest, mainly because that’s what it runs on the majority of the time,

Thing is it’s never been this bad on petrol before, think I’ll try putting the timing back to where it was even though it was an indicated 17deg btdc.

Have read a few things saying the marks on the bottom pulley can be out a fair amount and I’ve never heard and detonation with the previous setup, either that or a probe down no1 cylinder to check tdc vs the mark?

TBF on any engine that I was adjusting the timing on for the first time I either locked the crank or inserted a timing pin, if ever I doubted I would check via No.1 piston.

MJ is great, MS is better as you could use it to run multi point LPG.
 
Well it looks like I have well and truly upset the v8.....

Well more specifically the bloody ecu, today I rebuilt the gas vaporiser with new diaphragms etc, fitted a new coil and a set of plugs and reset the timing to where it was before I messed with it.

The result? It’s running worse than ever on petrol And it looks like a still have a problem with the gas which I suspect is now a shutoff solenoid not opening properly on the tank line.

So I gave up on the gas and started looking for answers on the petrol side, it’s running so rich I’m getting black smoke out the exhaust on revving it and the idle is very rough up down and all over the place.

Can’t afford to stretch to the megasquirt at the moment although I was so naffed off earlier the credit card nearly got a bashing haha

So Instead I’ve ordered a cable to be able to talk to the antique ecu and see what the sensors are reading in the hope I can solve this!
 
We’re finally runnng properly again!

After changing plugs, leads, coil, cap and rotor arm and seeing no difference I plugged in the ecu to see that not much seemed out of place bar both lambdas pegged rich and the iacv only showing 12% on a 750rpm idle(should be 30ish)

From this I decided I had an inlet leak so I checked all the breather system and finally getting a little mift I unbolted the top hat of the intake. It was at this point I noticed the fuel pressure regulator pipe had popped off!

Refitted it and bolted the top hat back on and after a few seconds to relearn it’s ticking over and running like a champ!

Annoying that it’s something I should have checked first really but it’s a tad hidden at the back of the intake.
But at least now I can get back to modifying instead of repair. Well for the moment anyway
 
So a bit of a serious delay in updating this but things changed a little.... not sure if I should start a new post about the new direction I’m going in!

So after I thought I sorted the V8 it all of a sudden started overheating and blowing its water out the second it warmed up and you drove it.

After a strip down and finding nothing a miss with the headgaskets I made up a pressure tester to test the block in situ and sure enough it was leaking up the side of a liner!

After some research and weighing up the costs of a top hat block/risk of a second hand engine which are coming harder and more expensive to come by I made a decision......

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Some of you may already know what it is but it’s a Cummins 6BT 6cyl Turbo Diesel.

I know a few have them in defenders but never seen a disco 1 with one in, and before anyone says it won’t fit I’ve been tinkering with a few bits and can confirm it will with a few modifications!

So my question is i guess is anyone interested in seeing it and my progress and secondly should I start a new post?
 
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