Disco2 td5 pressurising cooling system

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Well certainly the first thing I would do is check for air locks.

Carefully open the bleed screw in the top hose and bleed for there initially and see how you go.


Can you see any bubbles in the header tank?


Dave
 
it's not a very big investment so my advice is to put a new OEM tank cap... and make sure it's well tightened... it has a pressure valve which must keep the pressure at 1.4 bar...if it's blocked the valve doesnt release the extra pressure and the pressure rises in the system... if it will not cure it then probably the problem becomes more complicated... but it's something which you must rule out IMO

RAVE - COOLING SYSTEM - TD5 - 26-1-6 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION said:
The expansion tank is fitted with a sealed pressure cap. The cap contains a pressure relief valve which opens to allow
excessive pressure and coolant to vent through the overflow pipe. The relief valve is open at a pressure of 1.4 bar (20
lbf.in 2 ) and above.
 
When you say pressurising, do you mean you are actually loosing coolant too?
By the way the top hose does go quite hard on these.
Could also be a dodgy thermostat.
 
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When you say pressurising, do you mean you are actually loosing coolant too?
By the way the top hose does go quite hard on these.
Could also be a dodgy thermostat.

good point , BUT...you can test how hard they must go, if you want to be 100% certain what's normal you must take a top hose, clog one side, addapt a fitting to the other side and fill it with water which you can controll to be at 1.4 bar... then squeeze it... that should be the NORMAL stiffness of it if the system works properly..., mine works perfect and i can't say that mine is very hard... i wish a better errection than that...not on the D2's top hose though :hysterically_laughi
 
The expansion tank does pressurise that's what it's designed to do. I would just check your water level in the morning when it's cooled down. Trust me the top hose does go quite hard on these. Like one of the lads said above, give it a bleeding from the top hose to be on the safe side. (be careful with the thread, their bastards & don't over tighten it). Also while bleeding, make sure your heating temp & cab fan are both on full blast while your bleeding it, to get rid of any trapped air in the system. Let us know how you get on.
 
good point , BUT...you can test how hard they must go, if you want to be 100% certain what's normal you must take a top hose, clog one side, addapt a fitting to the other side and fill it with water which you can controll to be at 1.4 bar... then squeeze it... that should be the NORMAL stiffness of it if the system works properly..., mine works perfect and i can't say that mine is very hard... i wish a better errection than that...not on the D2's top hose though :hysterically_laughi

Giggle giggle :laugh:
 
1. The expansion tank does pressurise that's what it's designed to do. I would just check your water level in the morning when it's cooled down. Trust me the top hose does go quite hard on these. Like one of the lads said above, give it a bleeding from the top hose to be on the safe side. (be careful with the thread, their bastards & don't over tighten it). Also while bleeding,
2.make sure your heating temp & cab fan are both on full blast while your bleeding it, to get rid of any trapped air in the system. Let us know how you get on
.

I hate to contradict anybody here but i dont want to let things unclear...
1. Yes...to 1.4 Bar, not more, not less
2. I doubt that the fan/flaps setting would have any effect...cos the D2's heater matrix is permanently in the coolant circuit from cold to warm...all the other things are managed by the heater assembly servo flaps system:
RAVE said:
Heater matrix
The heater matrix is fitted in the heater assembly inside the passenger compartment. Two pipes pass through the
bulkhead into the engine compartment and provide coolant flow to and from the matrix. The pipes from the bulkhead
are connected to the matrix, sealed with 'O' rings and clamped with circular rings.
The matrix is constructed from aluminium with two end tanks interconnected with tubes. Aluminium fins are located
between the tubes and conduct heat from the hot coolant flowing through the tubes. Air from the heater assembly is
warmed as it passes through the matrix fins. The warm air is then distributed in to the passenger compartment as
required.
+HEATING AND VENTILATION, DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION, Description.
When the engine is running, coolant from the engine is constantly circulated through the heater matrix.

so IMO dont bother with the heater controlls

i hope it's no offence:5bcheers2:
 
if the tank is leaking it will not keep the 1.4 bar pressure neither and you'll have problems...the pressure is necessary to keep the water's boiling point above 120*C, ...for a Td5 is not uncommon to run a bit hot under load(around 100*C) and if there's no pressure the water will be close to the boiling point at that temperature which will create overpressure/air in the system
 
Hello again quick update I changed the header tank today as it was leaking but was still pressurising after I did this, I ran it up to temp so heaters were hot but noticed the radiator was cold apart from top right hand corner was warm where top hose goes into the rad. Rest of it was stone cold. Bottom hose off the rad before the thermostat was cold, the thermostat itself and hoses after were red hot. The radiator looks quite new and is not a genuine part. Do you think it could be blocked or the thermostat is faulty? Any help is much appreciated

think id try thermostat ,but new rads can fail so check after
 
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