Defender 110 fuel gauge issue.

I’m looking for advice re a fuel gauge that’s faulty. It’s in a Defender 110 Td5, now in its 20th year. It has been recently attended to for a number of issues, one of which was the replacement of a fuel pump. I’ve been checking here and find that one possible cause would be the new fuel pump being after market. So, while I would’ve been considering a dodgy float/sensor in the tank and the necessary removal of the tank, now I’m not so sure. If it’s any help for those reading, the gauge will set off to the ‘full’ point on the dash after ignition is switched to #2 setting once the fuel pump noise is sounding. However, once the noise has passed and always when the engine is started it will rest at the *empty* point on the gauge. All advice welcome.

Could be an earth issue, usually is with Defenderers.

Yes, that’s another option. And as you’ll expect I’m probably hoping it won’t need for me to take out the fuel tank as that’s a job and a bit, and cold weather wouldn’t help my bones doing that job. The reason I’d kind of ruled out an earthing issue, rightly or wrongly, was because the gauge needle drifts to the full side when the ignition but not the engine is switched on, and then drops again as soon as I move to the ignition switching.

Cashpat said:

Yes, that’s another option. And as you’ll expect I’m probably hoping it won’t need for me to take out the fuel tank as that’s a job and a bit, and cold weather wouldn’t help my bones doing that job. The reason I’d kind of ruled out an earthing issue, rightly or wrongly, was because the gauge needle drifts to the full side when the ignition but not the engine is switched on, and then drops again as soon as I move to the ignition switching.

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That could be a sign of something shorting to earth during stage 2 of the key turn, then turning off when stage 3 is selected.

On a side note, there are plenty of threads of people who cut an access hole in the rear floor. It stops the tank needing to be removed.

Thanks for these replies. I had thoughts of a hatch to access the tank top and it’s connections last time the tank was removed, a long while back now. But, of course, I didn’t. As to the electrical connections you mention, it’s clear that this would be above my pay grade and I’m hesitating to start faffing when low on knowledge. Course, garage access or auto-spark/mechanic to work on these at present, due to lockdowns, is impossible. In the meantime, I’m willing to plod on using the tips I’m receiving here from people obviously more expert than me. Thanks again for reading and taking time to reply.