D2 tapping, crankshaft pulley?

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Ush

Active Member
Posts
101
Location
Bristol, UK
Hi all, it's been some years since my last post here. . Primarily because my disco has been treating me well, but that all ended a few days ago in spectacular fashion .
Idle pulley (one where ace pump would be of you had it) siezed and destroyed drive belt. Manage to change pulley and get new belt fitted, but now there is a metallic tapping at idle and a clatter when you switch off.
I've checked all pulleys etc and they seen to be running true, pretty sure the tapping is coming from the crankshaft pulley.
I took the belt back of and started her for a few seconds, tapping still there so rules out any ancillary components?! And at switch off the clattering seems to line up with the pulley rattling to and fro momentarily as it stops .
I've taken the damper /harmonic balancer off.. And now I can see the pulley, it's clear that the legs / struts of the pulley are knocking into the lugs which the damper bolts into?
You can freely turn the pulley by hand up to the point it contacts these lugs? Is that normal, or am I right in thinking the pulley is probably my problem and wants changing?
Thanks for any advice.. Cheers!
 
Yup, thought as much gonna order one today.. Anyone done the job? I know I'm going to need to lay hands on a serious torque wrench, but I've seen a few people suggesting it can be done without removing the radiator as the manual suggests?
Just out of curiosity should the pulley spin between the lugs as I described? or is that definitely the tapping / clattering in hearing and the new pulley will be vastly different?
Thanks
 
Hi all, it's been some years since my last post here. . Primarily because my disco has been treating me well, but that all ended a few days ago in spectacular fashion .
Idle pulley (one where ace pump would be of you had it) siezed and destroyed drive belt. Manage to change pulley and get new belt fitted, but now there is a metallic tapping at idle and a clatter when you switch off.
I've checked all pulleys etc and they seen to be running true, pretty sure the tapping is coming from the crankshaft pulley.
I took the belt back of and started her for a few seconds, tapping still there so rules out any ancillary components?! And at switch off the clattering seems to line up with the pulley rattling to and fro momentarily as it stops .
I've taken the damper /harmonic balancer off.. And now I can see the pulley, it's clear that the legs / struts of the pulley are knocking into the lugs which the damper bolts into?
You can freely turn the pulley by hand up to the point it contacts these lugs? Is that normal, or am I right in thinking the pulley is probably my problem and wants changing?
Thanks for any advice.. Cheers!
what he said ^^....
did mine recently, had a little surprise when i took the damper off...
20180324_142749.jpg
 
Yup, thought as much gonna order one today.. Anyone done the job? I know I'm going to need to lay hands on a serious torque wrench, but I've seen a few people suggesting it can be done without removing the radiator as the manual suggests?
Just out of curiosity should the pulley spin between the lugs as I described? or is that definitely the tapping / clattering in hearing and the new pulley will be vastly different?
Thanks
no, the pulley shoudnt spin. your suspicions are correct.
eventually got mine off with a breaker bar propped on the chassis and turning the engine over. could have done it with the rad in place but i took the front end off the car before i had to resort to that method anyway. :rolleyes:
if you do it that way- be careful!!
 
That's really helpful, yeah bolt lugs still in place so will try the steel bar and a couple of holes to hold pulley .. Otherwise like the idea of using the engine to undo assuming I can properly brace the braker bar! Assume you stopped the engine firing somehow? Disconnect fuel pump or something? Cheers
 
That's really helpful, yeah bolt lugs still in place so will try the steel bar and a couple of holes to hold pulley .. Otherwise like the idea of using the engine to undo assuming I can properly brace the braker bar! Assume you stopped the engine firing somehow? Disconnect fuel pump or something? Cheers
well... i pulled the fuel pump fuse, gave it a couple of cranks which seemed to loosen it. one more for luck and the engine started! :eek: turned it off immediately and actually, it had just fully unscrewed the bolt! i suppose in reality, it can only unscrew to the length of the bolt thread which is only a couple of inches. to raise the handle of the breaker bar above the pipework that is (inevitably) in the way, i rested it on the head of a club hammer laid on the chassis.
 
Brilliant advice thanks, will give it a go next week.. Spent the last few days on t'Internet trying to confirm my suspicions.. 5 minutes on this forum and have all the answers.. Top notch cheers
 
Update.. Fingers crossed, with some great advice from this forum and some perseverance I think I'm there.. Not without a few bumps in the road though, so for anyone who faces similar breakdown, here's how it went for me. .
Drive belt and idle pulley went and took the crankshaft pulley with them, replacing belt and idler easy, plenty of how to's around.. The crankshaft pulley a bit more tricky, I went with a big spanner against the frame rail and cranking the engine method to get it off..worked a treat. First wobble came when trying to prise out old oil seal and poked a hole in radiator.. In pretty much every discussion about how to do this job, people make it clear to either remove rad or protect our somehow..and they're right! Good news / bad news an aftermarket rad was only £40, but when I fitted, a pipe which is capped on original, was open on the new one, it apparently changed in 2002 from eu2 to eu3, I managed to cap the additional pipe with rad hose, a wheel bolt covered in sealant and jubilee clips.. Which looks to have worked.
Highlights of my experience; make sure you can get big 460nm torque wrench (norbar etc), they're rarer than hens teeth I couldn't even hire one! ..protect your rad, if you end up needing to replace, watch out for 2 variations. I bought after market viscous fan spanner and locking tools (c.£20)..and I modified the locking tool with a single drilled hole so it also doubled as a locking tool for the camshaft pulley for when I tightened that bad boy to 460nm!.. Last thing I need to sort is the aircon fan running permanently, I understand because it overheated the ecu locked it on to help and now can only be reset by clearing the code etc.. Don't have a hawkeye, so am going to see if a local indie can help.. Otherwise, thanks largely to this forum, think it's sorted and for new belt, idler, camshaft pulley, damper, oil seal, radiator, 10l of coolant and fan spanners.. For around £180 and a few painful hours, she's back on the road ..I hate to think what a garage would have charged me !
 
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