Cranking but not starting

I parked Disco 2 up the other day, going fine.

Came out next day and cranked away, but isn't starting, new battery fitted and still the same.

My first though was crank sensor, as inj loom, inj seals, are recent, red plug is dry, fuel filter is recent too.

Is there any test protocol for the crank sensor? or just get a new one?

As a second though, are D2's prone to dropping immobilser settings etc?

regards

Gordy

If it was an immobiliser issue I would expect the red led to still be lit on the dash when cranking.

Can you hear the fuel pump when you switch on the ignition?

Try the priming routine to see if it's a fuel related problem

No LEDS on dash,

tried priming but no avail, fuel pump whirring away, although when cranking, the green m and s lights are lit, ive never noticed that before, as shes usually an instant starter

cheers

Green M+S = Low Battery

THanks Andy,

They may be just coming on as i crank it,

I'll order a CS sensor tomorrow and see how it goes

ta

to keep things accurate: immobiliser = NO CRANK, so not that, rule out the main relay just to be sure, swap R9(main) with R8(heated screen) for test, crank sensor complete failure should have triggered the MIL warning(but used to fail on that from time to time) find somebody with tester near you to read fault code(s)...if no faults logged it might be a fuel supply issue cos it's not covered by diagnostics... put voltmeter on the battery while cranking if voltage fails under 10V it will not start

Thanks Sierafery, Again!

New crank sensor didnt help, so i have a good one here as a spare for anyone who needs it.

No codes on Hawkeye, so i assume its a fuelling issue, im going to drop off the filter and crank her, i assume i should see a 'gush' of fuel, as opposed to a 'flow'?

Gordon

Im really starting to hate this car!

New fuel pump fitted, still not starting, cranking away, and cranking quickly, still no codes on hawkeye, m and s lights flashing when cranking too

Could it be a fault with the ignition key switch?

Any ideas?

but did you check the voltage while cranking as i adviced two posts above?...the fact that it's cranking fast doesnt mean there's enough "juice" left for the ECU to open the injectors

Yes, did indeed

getting in the 11 volt range, dropping to about 10.18 after 6-8 cranks

swap relays R9(main relay) with R8(heated screen) just to rule it out... also push on the inertia switch once to rule this out too or even better unplug it and bridge the pins in the plug cos this circuit is the feed for the mai relay

at the filter you'll not have big pressure cos the high pressure goes directly to the FPR not through the filter... you must measure the pressure there with a gauge where the fuel temp sensor is fitted in the FPR

If the M+S are flashing read the fault codes from the transmission if no codes in the engine ECU

2 codes in transmission,

P1849 - CAN time out, intermittant

P1842 - CAN time out continous

No ems dtc's

did you try those tricks i told you?...if yes and no joy, unplug and inspect well the ECU red plug to mak sure all the pins are well seated and make good contact cos it can happen to be pushed back, give a contact spray too if it was oil there cos the oil will still drain out of the loom if it was full of it... that fault code means there's some bad contract in the red plug...also there's an earth rail with 3 points near the jack compartment check those earths too

do you hear the injectors clicking if you make circuit test with hawkeye?...you can check the crank signal while cranking on circuit tests see if you get 2-3V then

Have tried all of above, still no joy.

Injectors clicking on the circuit test, glow plug is forced 'off' as well, if that makes a difference.

Red plug was fine, dry and clean, as were the other multiplugs in that general area

Earths looked ok, but were cleaned anyway.

Oil did get into the ecu a couple of years ago, just after i bought her, so it was opened, and sprayed with contact cleaner, left to dry and well sealed again

====you can check the crank signal while cranking on circuit tests see if you get 2-3V then===

Didnt see this on my circuit tests, did have 'CM' signal, which self tested and declared passed

you need to addapt a gauge to FPR then and make sure it gets fuel...though that CAN failure fault code might mean a failed ECU... unfortunately now i'm out of ideas too

sure your battery isn't flat now since you've been cranking it a lot? are you charging it up overnight?

Get someone to crank it over and spray a little wd40 or even deodorant into the air intake on manifold,if it fires your not getting fuel,go easy on the spray though or it can lock up a little while cranking ,best way is to just give a few little bursts while cranking over

THanks Guys,

I tried a wee squirt of brake cleaner through the intake plenum, she gave a kick or two

I'll try and source some sort of pressure gauge tomorrow, failing that, Sierafery, i see on your profile you have an ecu test bed, are you available to test mine, for the appropriate fee of course

thanks

i would do it for you for free but IMO it's too expensive to ship the ECU to Romania and back cos being electronic unit it must be insured etc... also i can only diagnose it not repair it so it would be wasted money, dont you have a good friend with a D2 to put your ECU on it and see if it starts or not, you dont have to code the injectors, justy put it to learn the immobiliser code with hawkeye (EMS - Programming - learn security code) and set the throttle(driver demand) to 2 or 3 track and if the ECU is good it will fire up just might run bad due to the uncoded injectors that's all

make sure first if you get fuel at the rail though, for pressure test see this Australian Land Rover Owners

just remembered check fuse F24 interior fusebox to rule this out too