Corrosion prevention

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dave abbott

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1
I have just bought myself a Disco 2 V8 that is just beautiful, with hardly any corrosion , just a surface tad
What is the best way of treating this , and ensuring that it is protected going forward.
I believe there are alternatives to the standard waxoil type treatment

Any suggestions please
 
Most steel used in British vehicles have corrosion built in at the smelting stage so what ever you do it will rust. You could wax oil every year or apply used engine oil but you need to accept the inevitable. My philosophy is that why spend lots of money and/or hours of hard work just delaying it. Let it rust and buy a new one when it gets too bad to pass the mot. Otherwise you will just fret throughout your ownership. Congratulations on your purchase by the way, I hope you will have many happy miles together.

Col
 
Col's way of looking at it is a little too 'fatalist' for my liking.
You will hear some people say "Soak it in old engine oil", but that's not particularly environmentally friendly.
Those who seem to have looked a bit closer at corrosion prevention seem to have come to the conclusion that Dinitrol is one way to go, the other is Bilt Hamber.
Dinitrol, which I have used can be bought as a "kit" which will include underbody wax, cavity wax and the harder under wing treatment. Also available are cans of cleaner solvent and rust converter. It can be purchased in either aerosol spray cans or 1 litre "Schutz" type cans. Dinitrol is available on ebay.
Bilt Hamber, is not a product which I've had any experience with, but others who have claim it to be every bit as good as Dinitrol, possibly even better.
Whichever method you decide to employ, bear in mind that the cleanest way to work with the stuff is to get someone else to do it, but if you decide to do it yourself then put a plastic sheet such as damp proof membrane from a builder's merchant down first and drive the vehicle onto it. Wear protective equipment including eyeshields or a full face shield and preferably a one piece overall with a hood. The stuff will get everywhere. The vapour from the stuff can get to you so take a breather every ten minutes or so.
Dinitrol will have to be checked over and "topped up" say annually and re-applied every three to five years.
 
"Let it rust then buy a new car"
It must be nice to have that option available financially.Sadly for most,that is not the case.
 
I have just bought myself a Disco 2 V8 that is just beautiful, with hardly any corrosion , just a surface tad
What is the best way of treating this , and ensuring that it is protected going forward.
I believe there are alternatives to the standard waxoil type treatment

Any suggestions please

This topic has been done to death on here.

In summary - the rust you can't see, inside the box sections is the issue ; waxoyl is crap ; Dinitrol is brilliant ; Bilt Hamber is Brilliant ; its a messy job ; it'll need redoing periodically.

Cos I'm nice:rolleyes: , I found two threads for you :-

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/waxoyl-or-dinitrol.314390/

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/d1-rust-advice.314588/
 
This topic has been done to death on here.

In summary - the rust you can't see, inside the box sections is the issue ; waxoyl is crap ; Dinitrol is brilliant ; Bilt Hamber is Brilliant ; its a messy job ; it'll need redoing periodically.

Cos I'm nice:rolleyes: , I found two threads for you :-

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/waxoyl-or-dinitrol.314390/

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/d1-rust-advice.314588/

As @Disco1BFG has said, the subject has been done to death.
The first link he's given contains a lot of information about such treatments including some good reasons for using the proper stuff instead of trying to mix up your own concoction from oil and diesel, etc.
You'll also find a comprehensive Materials Safety Data Sheet for old engine oil which gives details of everything you need to know about old oil, including how to dispose of the stuff. Spraying it all over the chassis is not a recommended method of disposal. Local authorities are a bit sniffy about what to do with it these days.
 
Spray oil underneath and inside the chassis... After you have done that buy a few spray tins of spray grease and cover it.. It won't rust for years if you keep on top of it
 
Old oil is fine UNTIL you have to work underneath, the soft chassis waxes arent much better either.
 
Yes, I am a bit fatalistic I suppose. It comes from 40 odd years of watching my cars rust no matter what I do or have done. Also I am getting close to the age where my untreated series 3 landy may out live me. My everyday car is a 13 year old Kia Sorento, a brilliant car. The previous owner spent a fortune on protecting the chassis and body work, I think he used dinitrol. The treatment cost him hundreds of pounds but every mot I get an advisory for corrosion on the chassis, last year I had to have a sill replaced. It's a bit like watching your wife get fat, it's a fact of life, deal with it.

Col
 
Yes, I am a bit fatalistic I suppose. It comes from 40 odd years of watching my cars rust no matter what I do or have done. Also I am getting close to the age where my untreated series 3 landy may out live me. My everyday car is a 13 year old Kia Sorento, a brilliant car. The previous owner spent a fortune on protecting the chassis and body work, I think he used dinitrol. The treatment cost him hundreds of pounds but every mot I get an advisory for corrosion on the chassis, last year I had to have a sill replaced. It's a bit like watching your wife get fat, it's a fact of life, deal with it.

Col


Thats what killed my faith in waxoyl dead after my FIL waxed his Nisan every year and after 15 yrs it needed welding and at 19 yrs he sold it as the welding was getting silly.
But I still wax the land rovers, the 90 is 24 yrs old original chassis apart from rear x member and the s2 is 59 yrs old and original chassis, rear x member is starting to show signs but as its mot exempt theres no real rush!

I would be a bit ****ed if a 13yr old car needed a new sill.
 
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