Cooling problems kv6 engine

Hi everyone HELP I Have a freelancer mk 1 V6 2.5 . It’s a cooling system fault I have recently replaced the thermostat water pump expansion tank a cap. I have run diagnostics on the engine the coolant temp is running at 105 deg she goes up to 110 deg the fans kick in and drops to 98 deg. The car is not over heating however when I drive the car for thirty miles and stop lift the bonnet the bottom radiator hose is stone cold if I leave the engine running eventually the bottom pipe gets hot and the fans kick in and out as normal. I have Plenty of heat in the heater it is really doing my head in. Has anyone experienced this before thanks in advance.

Normal.
If it's keeping its coolant in the system, then don't worry.

My fans on my v6 wouldn't come on until 109 degrees and turned oft at 106 degrees.

The bottom radiator hose won't get hot when yer driving as there's enough cooling ability in the system to cool the coolant due to air flow at speed. This air flow isn't available when stationary. Only when the engine is hot after a drive, the bottom hose will get hot when the radiator on it's own can't cool the coolant by natural convection. The fans would then come on at 109 degrees on mine if this were to happen.

Get a feel for the coolant pipes being soft when the engine is cold. They will harden when it's hot when the coolant is pressurised and it's holding the pressure.

Hippo said:

My fans on my v6 wouldn't come on until 109 degrees and turned oft at 106 degrees.

The bottom radiator hose won't get hot when yer driving as there's enough cooling ability in the system to cool the coolant due to air flow at speed. This air flow isn't available when stationary. Only when the engine is hot after a drive, the bottom hose will get hot when the radiator on it's own can't cool the coolant by natural convection. The fans would then come on at 109 degrees on mine if this were to happen.

Get a feel for the coolant pipes being soft when the engine is cold. They will harden when it's hot when the coolant is pressurised and it's holding the pressure.

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Hi new problem I am losing minimal coolant and cannot find any leaks. Everything is new ie water pump thermostat inlet gaskets expansion tank and cap. She is not Bet heating at all however she speaks hot when the fans kick in coolant is max 110 deg however when hot this afternoon coolant
Pipes Weber soft while the thermostat was open. I realessed the cap and not much pressure however the expansion tank did fill up. If I squeeze the bottom hose tight and Rev the engine it will form a vacuum and hold the pipe together for a short period I can feel like bubbles in the hose but no vibrations. I will te bleed the system tomorrow morning this is driving me crazy done 2000 kilometre no overheating at all but had to top up coolant level weekly ????

How are you reading the temperatures ?

Darrenbunn6969 said:

Hi new problem I am losing minimal coolant and cannot find any leaks. Everything is new ie water pump thermostat inlet gaskets expansion tank and cap. She is not Bet heating at all however she speaks hot when the fans kick in coolant is max 110 deg however when hot this afternoon coolant
Pipes Weber soft while the thermostat was open. I realessed the cap and not much pressure however the expansion tank did fill up. If I squeeze the bottom hose tight and Rev the engine it will form a vacuum and hold the pipe together for a short period I can feel like bubbles in the hose but no vibrations. I will te bleed the system tomorrow morning this is driving me crazy done 2000 kilometre no overheating at all but had to top up coolant level weekly ????

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Oo déjà vu.

Here's a déjà vu answer for the déjà vu question.

It's normal for the bottom hose to be cool, even when the engine is hot. Coolant loss can be from thermostat O rings and or cracks around the expansion tank filler neck. Also was the cap a genuine cap? Cheap caps don't often hold the 18 Psi the cooling system can reach in normal running. The engine is designed to run up to 115°C and still show normal on the gauge. So imo you only need to find and fix the slight coolant leak.

Nodge68 said:

Oo déjà vu.

Here's a déjà vu answer for the déjà vu question.

It's normal for the bottom hose to be cool, even when the engine is hot. Coolant loss can be from thermostat O rings and or cracks around the expansion tank filler neck. Also was the cap a genuine cap? Cheap caps don't often hold the 18 Psi the cooling system can reach in normal running. The engine is designed to run up to 115°C and still show normal on the gauge. So imo you only need to find and fix the slight coolant leak.

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All parts are new the thermostat and expansion tank and cap are all genuine landrover genuine landrover

ianda12 said:

How are you reading the temperatures ?

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I’m using a WiFi obd2 d’ongle and torque and auto doctor software

Darrenbunn6969 said:

All parts are new the thermostat and expansion tank and cap are all genuine landrover genuine landrover

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If it's loosing coolant, then it's got a leak somewhere. Thermostat O rings are easily damaged when fitting, so check in the V for coolant steaming off.
The water pump seal can also leak and steam off unseen, so check there too.

My V6 runs at the same temperatures. I have been running a Wifi OBD reader for measurements.
I hardly ever notice my fans kicking in, and yes it does make m nervous but no overheating which is good.
There is a bleeder at the back of the rear head to help get any air out of the cooling system.

Ok update I have purchased a uv leak detector kit and added it to the cooling system ran the car for four days just been under the bonnet looking for any signs of leaks nothing external. However there is traces of the dye in the intake and the throttle housing ??!! No signs of the dye in the oil no oil in coolant no cream in the oil filler cap. So how is coolant getting into the intake ??????

I had an intake manifold to head gasket fail causing a coolant leak On mine it pi$$ed all over the engine compartment but it could have gone into the intake manifold. I don't see how
the coolant could make it to the throttle body from there but thought I would mention it FWIW.

Rich in Vancouver said:

I had an intake manifold to head gasket fail causing a coolant leak On mine it pi$$ed all over the engine compartment but it could have gone into the intake manifold. I don't see how
the coolant could make it to the throttle body from there but thought I would mention it FWIW.

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Coolant in the inlet can trickle past the rings into the sump after shutdown. This will then steam off into the throttle body via the large vent pipe. The UV dye is very easy transfered from one location to another in with any water vapour.

Did yer solve the coolant loss problem?

Hippo said:

Did yer solve the coolant loss problem?

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Hi lord hippo to a degree yes I had a leaking bgunlet manifld gasket. All seems well dropped be from spin to the south of france with no issues at all however I have lost coolant since wether that was air being purged from the system after the drain down to replace the gaskets. As I believe it can take a few hundred miles to purge the air left after bleeding. I’ll keep you all updated. However I have a new problem I get a clanging sound when pulling away or reversing I have got two new driveshafts to replace. No idea what the clanging is. Also had new tyres fitted and the front there are scrubbing the inner edges of had the tracking done at the time and just had it rechecked no problems found. Wheel bearings are good no play in the suspension. ???? So any advice would be great from anyone

Banging might be the front mount of the rear diff - they do perish. This often is made worse and is a sign the transmission is being damaged if the tyres are not all matching - all 4 road tyres need to be the same make & model. If you replace 2, they must be the same as the ones being retained and the ones with most tread (the new ones) must go on the back.

GrumpyGel said:

Banging might be the front mount of the rear diff - they do perish. This often is made worse and is a sign the transmission is being damaged if the tyres are not all matching - all 4 road tyres need to be the same make & model. If you replace 2, they must be the same as the ones being retained and the ones with most tread (the new ones) must go on the back.

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Ok I’ll get them swapped over straight away thanks for the heads up

Darrenbunn6969 said:

Hi lord hippo to a degree yes I had a leaking bgunlet manifld gasket. All seems well dropped be from spin to the south of france with no issues at all however I have lost coolant since wether that was air being purged from the system after the drain down to replace the gaskets. As I believe it can take a few hundred miles to purge the air left after bleeding. I’ll keep you all updated. However I have a new problem I get a clanging sound when pulling away or reversing I have got two new driveshafts to replace. No idea what the clanging is. Also had new tyres fitted and the front there are scrubbing the inner edges of had the tracking done at the time and just had it rechecked no problems found. Wheel bearings are good no play in the suspension. ???? So any advice would be great from anyone

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Some v6's seem to hide a bit of air which floats out to the coolant reservoir when yer driving normally. Others you can get it all out. Don't know why. I always reversed up a 45 degree grass slope (rear wheels only) to help it flush the air out. Also drove up/down a short 15 degree hill to help shift the air. I also gently tap all the coolant pipes when it's stationary ticking over and up to running temp (be careful where you put yer fingers/paws). The important thing to do is keep checking the coolant reservoir level and make sure it doesn't go too low. Also make sure when it's hot the coolant pipes become firmer which means it's air tight with no leaks. Also when it's been driving and warm, stop and make sure the radiator bottom hose starts to get warm when it starts using the radiator to help cool itself.

Hippo said:

Some v6's seem to hide a bit of air which floats out to the coolant reservoir when yer driving normally.

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It's quite normal for the V6 to continue to purge air out for some time after a coolant change.
It's the repeated heating, cooling cycles that clear it all out. This slow final purging is common on all KV6 engine installations, even when new.

Nodge68 said:

It's quite normal for the V6 to continue to purge air out for some time after a coolant change.
It's the repeated heating, cooling cycles that clear it all out. This slow final purging it common on all KV6 engine installations, even when new.

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Years ago when I used the main dealer for servicing it was interesting to see they set the coolant level quite high. Each time after a few drive cycles it would sit perfectly on the high mark on level ground. They must have been eggspecting it happen like we do, and knew eggsactly by how much it would fall.