Clutch Pipes

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DEFENDER 110 Just broken my clutch pipe that runs from master slave at pedal then runs along bulkhead then down to slave cylinder. Is this right part NRC8330 ?
 
If you cannot get one, but a reel of the correct pipe and get local garage to flare the ends for you?
Iirc the pipe is 3/16, same as your brake pipes?

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They can be a bit of an arse to fit, well , mine was, in hindsight I should have went the home brew approach and made one from copper.
 
nobber said:
They can be a bit of an arse to fit, well , mine was, in hindsight I should have went the home brew approach and made one from copper.
Click to expand...
Ordered the Bearmach one from Britcar for 3 quid, they say there waiting of that one coming back in stock but I can have a Britpart one for 25 quid. Think I will ask local Landy place to make me one up.
 
tWell found a bit of pipe with both ends on in my shed of parts, I find something new every time I go in there, Usually after Ive Just ordered them :rolleyes:
it was a different shape to mine, aint got a clue what it was for, but I was able bend it to near enough the right way, Had to put it over the top of filter housing as other was under, not sure if that's a bad thing or not but it fits and is plumbed in both ends, so if it works it will do for me, Think its ready for Clutch Fluid, never done that before so will be googling how to bleed clutch later.
 

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Same as brakes but don't do too many strokes of the clutch pedal as the reservoir is tiny in comparison to the brake one and empties double quick!
Then you get air in and have to start all over.
Pull the bonnet up to the windscreen to make master top up easier or, as I do, use a syringe to top up.
 
Make suren the pipe is nowhere near the exhaust, if the fluid gets hot the clutch will stop working.
 
Flossie said:
Same as brakes but don't do too many strokes of the clutch pedal as the reservoir is tiny in comparison to the brake one and empties double quick!
Then you get air in and have to start all over.
Pull the bonnet up to the windscreen to make master top up easier or, as I do, use a syringe to top up.
Click to expand...
No bonnet on yet :) waiting till everything in engine is finished. So do I fill the master first, then try and bleed it down ? as have read of pumping it up from the bottom slave.
nobber said:
Make suren the pipe is nowhere near the exhaust, if the fluid gets hot the clutch will stop working.
Click to expand...
Don't think it is It basically runs where the old one was but along top of fuel filter housing instead of along the bottom. Does the engine have to be running whilst bleeding the clutch ?
 
Gravity bleed it, fill master, crack bleed nipple on slave, a few pumps , not foot to floor to initiate syphon, wait until fluid runs out without letting master run dry, it doesnt hold much. Engine off.
If it wont gravity bleed, do all above but put clear pipe from bleed nipple into a half full jar or bottle of fluid, pump a few times until the level in the jar rises and no air bubbles are present, make sure the end of the pipe is submerged so it doesnt suck in air.

Be aware that air can get in through the threads of the bleed nipple.
 
border said:
No bonnet on yet :) waiting till everything in engine is finished. So do I fill the master first, then try and bleed it down ? as have read of pumping it up from the bottom slave.

Don't think it is It basically runs where the old one was but along top of fuel filter housing instead of along the bottom. Does the engine have to be running whilst bleeding the clutch ?
Click to expand...
No, engine doesn't.
Fill master then open the slave nipple.
Get someone to push the clutch pedal down and shout "down" and hold it down whilst you nip the nipple up. Then you shout "up" and your helper let's the pedal back up and shouts "up" then you shout "down" again whilst slackening the nipple and he shouts "down" again, then you nip it back up and shout "up" and so on until fluid comes out free of bubbles. A bit of clear tube and a jar for the fluid to squirt into saves making a mess. You will probably only get 3 or 4 pedal strokes before the fluid needs topping up. Get your helper to see how the pedal resistance "feels" when the nipple is closed, around 3 master refills should get it done or close to.
 
I have always found reverse bleeding the clutch, to be the easiest way. I have an old Wesco oiler that I have some clear fluid forced over. The wesco is filled with brake fluid, and pumped in from the bleed nipple until the fluid is in the reservoir. Once it’s full, give it a few pumps of the clutch pedal as per normal bleeding.
 
mick 1986 said:
I have always found reverse bleeding the clutch, to be the easiest way. I have an old Wesco oiler that I have some clear fluid forced over. The wesco is filled with brake fluid, and pumped in from the bleed nipple until the fluid is in the reservoir. Once it’s full, give it a few pumps of the clutch pedal as per normal bleeding.
Click to expand...
Been reading about that too, probably be on my own so not sure which way to do it. unless I wait till someone comes.
 
border said:
Been reading about that too, probably be on my own so not sure which way to do it. unless I wait till someone comes.
Click to expand...

You can’t bleed the conventional way by yourself, not effectively anyway. Reverse bleed it by yourself and wait until you have a helper to finish it off.
 
Well things did not go to plan. I remember fitting Slave a few months ago and it just say nipped the pipe up and never thought about it till we tried to bleed clutch today, The pipe came out and would not screw back in, thought the slave was knackered so took it off but looks ok. After reading up on it I think that they have different threads , please correct me if Im wrong about this. Have not got a clue how to tell which thread is which, here is pic of thread on my pipe, I tried it on the top Master just to see if it was this that was the problem but it went in fine. Tried another one in slave with same thread and it would not go.
Question is which slave do I need to get ?​
 

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