Series 3 Clutch pedal at top of travel

As part of a rebuild I fitted a new clutch. After reassembly things seem to be going ok except:

- The bite point for the clutch is quite near the top of the pedal travel - I would have expected it to be lower down on a new clutch. The release bearing is a HD (Britpart I think) part and has the staple fitted. That all went back together properly
- It makes an odd low pitched squeal when stationary with the clutch depressed in 1st / Reverse

I expect the first is due to either my mistake bleeding the system or assembly of the fork to slave pin though I checked it all against the book and made sure it was all seated properly - what to check? I bled the system with a pressure bleeder.

The second I'm not sure, is that likely to be a misalignment of the gearbox to engine, or a dodgy release bearing? I would have thought the bearing would be stationary when the vehicle is still all I can think is the flywheel to input shaft bush spinning?

It drives fine and the clutch doesn't slip but it doesn't feel right...

D

Well things are not right! If it were mine ID be inclined to split the Engine and Gearbox again and look at the release bearing checking also that everything is as it should be, bite on a new clutch is a little above half way good luck

Sounds like a lack of play at the master cylinder push rod.

Try the push rod first before full dismantle?

That makes sense thinking about it. I'll check whether the master pushrod has some play...I really don't want to have to rip the floor up again, lots of sealer to keep me feet dry would be wasted!

Did you disturb the clutch slave cylinder? I had exactly the same issue on mine when I replaced everything, Clutch, thrust bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder, pipework. It turned out that there is a steel spacer that sits between the slave cylinder and the gearbox, with this missing the clutch is never fully engaged and the pedal is right at the top of it's travel.

You could try adding more of these spacers to change the clutch pedal position, as it sounds like yours is also not fully releasing.

Parts you need are:


So it then looks like this:


Each spacer gives you about 2mm.

Other things to check, are clutch fitment, the clutch long centre must face towards the gearbox, it should also me marked as such.

Where does your clutch pedal sit with regard to the floor, it should be 140mm:


Plus some slack at the master cylinder push rod

Thanks Murtle, all good pointers - I can't be 100% certain but I'm fairly sure I left the slave cylinder fitted the whole time. I'll check for the spacer and measure the pedal height at the weekend. I'm sure I put the clutch plate in the right way round it was clearly marked - I remember being careful when doing that part as I'd not done a clutch before.

Peddle height easy to adjust. 140mm (5 1/2") is for a series three. I can't remember the series two setting been a long time since I ran one.

My clutch is fairly new and the bite is at the end of travel. However it doesn't slip. Interestingly my slave doesn't have that spacer / washer and the old one didn't either. I had fun and games adjusting originally as it would slip when hot but I eventually got it sorted through adjustment at the pedal

With a hydraulic clutch, should it not be self-adjusting? Same as how disc brakes self-adjust as the pads wear by drawing more fluid from the master cylinder. Which means the bite point shouldn't move significantly.

Self adjusting? Land Rover had only just moved on from square wheels and ropes for steering with the Series 3.

My manual tells me to drive it round in circles for 10 minutes if only used for short runs so it eats and sleeps well in the stable overnight.

Land Raver said:

My clutch is fairly new and the bite is at the end of travel. However it doesn't slip. Interestingly my slave doesn't have that spacer / washer and the old one didn't either. I had fun and games adjusting originally as it would slip when hot but I eventually got it sorted through adjustment at the pedal

Click to expand...

Mine also didn't have that spacer/steel gasket but it's shown in the parts catalogue. My clutch would slip and the bite point was right at the top of travel. Adding the shim made a huge difference. I would recommend getting a couple and trying your clutch again.

Thanks - will try that