Freelander 1 Clutch/gearbox probs.

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Nandad

Nandad

Active Member
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Location
Rame Peninsula
Hi guys just got a 04 freelander sport. Is the gearbox supposed to be very stiff and the clutch pedal supposed to be pushed through the floor? New clutch fitted 25k miles ago.
 
Hello Nandad, welcome to Landyzone. I don't know of the gearbox is supposed to be stiff but mine is too. Also, I have to push my clutch right to the floor before changing gears even though the bite point is about midway of travel. Someone on here suggested replacing the plastic bracket with a metal one. I think he was referring to the bracket holding the slave cylinder.

Col
 
The TD4 uses a completely different hydraulic setup to the 1.8. IIRC the slave on the TD4 is inside the bell housing as opposed to outside on the 1.8 plus it uses a more convention hydraulic feed rather than the sealed unit for the Rover lumps. I don't know much else other than presumably its a bugger to bleed if its inside the bell housing!
 
It's a common problem but in answer to the OP's question. No the clutch shouldn't be on the floor and no the gearbox shouldn't be stiff. The hydraulics are likely responsible for both problems.
When the clutch was changed, were the master and slave also changed? If not, then the master (hopefully the slave was changed) could well be past its operational life. Generally the master is totally worn out by the time the clutch is worn. So it's a sensible precaution to replace the entire assembly at the same time. However the master is seldom changed. The gearbox is baulking out because the clutch isn't fully disengaged, which is why it's stiff. If left in this condition, the synchro rings will get worn and the box will need a rebuild. So it's best to deal with the problem now.
 
Last edited:
for what its worth the clutch pedal on my sons 1.8 is the same you have to push it right down but it dose go in to gear ok
 
Nodge68 said:
It's a common problem but in answer to the OP's question. No the clutch shouldn't be on the floor and no the gearbox shouldn't be stiff. The hydraulics are likely responsible for both problems.
When the clutch was changed, were the master and slave also changed? If not, then the master (hopefully the slave was changed) could well be past its operational life. Generally the master is totally worn out by the time the clutch is worn. So it's a sensible precaution to replace the entire assembly at the same time. However the master is seldom changed. The gearbox is baulking out because the clutch isn't fully disengaged, whichis why it's stiff. If left in this condition, the synchro rings will get worn and the box will need a rebuild. So it's best to deal with the problem now.
Click to expand...
Don't buy a cheapo ebay master cylinder. If you do you will regret it.
Don't ask how I know. :oops:
 
Nodge68 said:
It's a common problem but in answer to the OP's question. No the clutch shouldn't be on the floor and no the gearbox shouldn't be stiff. The hydraulics are likely responsible for both problems.
When the clutch was changed, were the master and slave also changed? If not, then the master (hopefully the slave was changed) could well be past its operational life. Generally the master is totally worn out by the time the clutch is worn. So it's a sensible precaution to replace the entire assembly at the same time. However the master is seldom changed. The gearbox is baulking out because the clutch isn't fully disengaged, which is why it's stiff. If left in this condition, the synchro rings will get worn and the box will need a rebuild. So it's best to deal with the problem now.
Click to expand...
Hi. No master cylinder changed when clutch was replaced. it is an avenue that many have suggested so I am getting it done. Thanks
 
Nandad said:
Hi. No master cylinder changed when clutch was replaced. it is an avenue that many have suggested so I am getting it done. Thanks
Click to expand...
The master cylinder failed completely on mine when I replaced the clutch. I replaced it with a cheap one and now have the clutch on the floor. It might be badly bled but I spent hours trying to bleed it and now blame the new MC.
Too miserable to replace it again and SWMBO doesn't know any better so it's staying. :rolleyes:
 
New clutch master cylinder fitted. No bloody difference. System bled. Still no bloody difference!! My right leg is
getting tired and I am getting seriously ticked off. All help rewarded with a pasty, my maid makes them (that's the wife for the emmitts) and a pint if we ever meet
 
Alibro said:
Can you pressure bleed a TD4 Freelander clutch by pushing the fluid into the slave the same way One Auto does it in this video?
Approx 13 minutes in.
Click to expand...

As long as the pedal is fully up, then yes, reverse pressure bleeding will do the trick. The small reservoir is the only problem, as it'll fill very quickly.
 
Thanks Nodge, I have a gunson pressure bleeder that was great when bleeding the brakes on daughters A3 after replacing the ABS module. If I can figure out a way to connect it to the bleed nipple I'll give it a go and report back. ;)
 
Nandad said:
I used a pressure kit running 2.5psi and about 500ml of fluid over 3 attempts.
Click to expand...
I bled mine by opening the bleed valve, pushing the pedal in and holding it with a plank then running round and tightening the valve. I had four or five goes at it trying different methods but it is still low. I still blame the cheapo ebay MC but will have a go at pressure bleeding.
BTW my gearbox is a great. Nice and smooth and snicks into gear no problem, it's just the clutch catches lower than it should.
If your gearbox is hard to shift only while trying to get 1st or reverse it might be the clutch, if it is still tight once your moving then you have a second issue. :(
 
Haven't watched that vid, but lst month I was helping my brother bleed the clutch on his Stag and it was being a right PITA. Tried a couple of times and it just wouldn't operate correctly.

In the end we used a cheap pressure bleeding system that used the compressed air in the spare tyre and it worked a treat :)
 
GrumpyGel said:
Haven't watched that vid, but lst month I was helping my brother bleed the clutch on his Stag and it was being a right PITA. Tried a couple of times and it just wouldn't operate correctly.

In the end we used a cheap pressure bleeding system that used the compressed air in the spare tyre and it worked a treat :)
Click to expand...
Hi Grumpy, that's the type I have. Did you blow from the top or bottom? :rolleyes:
 
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