Clutch adjustment?

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omlaysause

New Member
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41
Hi,
Can I ask if there is any clutch adjustment on an 1989 90?
Over the past month or so I've lost at least 50% on the pedal, so it's now only biting right at the bottom.
So if there's no adjustment it looks like I may be need a clutch pretty soon! :eek:

Thanks in advance.
 
undo 6x bolt on pedal box top rod is adjustable old 13mm ring spanner with slot cut to go over rod helps,check pedal and slave for leaks
 
I always thought a worn clutch saw the bite point be with more pedal travel (pedal higher) rather than nearer the floor

Am I mistaken James?

Would be suspecting Master cylinder or slave if progressively getting nearer the floor?
 
Last edited:
no as friction material gets thinner diaphragm fingers move out towards gearbox,not usualy that noticeable on lrs as slave pushes release brg against diaphragm from the start giving longer travel needed to clear, over adjusting can lead to fluid not been able to return properly giving slipping of clutch especially in situation were clutch used alot in short space of time
 
Following on from this, have noticed my clutch bite point is almost at the top, the clutch has not done enough miles for it to be worn out, ( i hope) so can i adjust it so the bite point is lower as occasionally it slips if i rest my foot to hard on the pedal. how much should i turn the nut and what direction.
thanks
 
If its at the top its probably shagged or somethings about to fail.
Mileage doesnt really mean anything.


Lynall
 
wickford90 said:
Following on from this, have noticed my clutch bite point is almost at the top, the clutch has not done enough miles for it to be worn out, ( i hope) so can i adjust it so the bite point is lower as occasionally it slips if i rest my foot to hard on the pedal. how much should i turn the nut and what direction.
thanks
Click to expand...
ride the clutch with your foot and you get pre mature clutch failure..........:doh::doh::rolleyes: The clutch pedal is not a foot rest:doh::doh: sounds something like jamie 1210 would do and he is retarded:eek::eek::eek:
 
Fur Trapper said:
ride the clutch with your foot and you get pre mature clutch failure..........:doh::doh::rolleyes: The clutch pedal is not a foot rest:doh::doh: sounds something like jamie 1210 would do and he is retarded:eek::eek::eek:
Click to expand...

Not even gonna dignify your answer with a reply, use the pedal as a foot rest, as if.
 
Station House said:
I always thought a worn clutch saw the bite point be with more pedal travel (pedal higher) rather than nearer the floor

Am I mistaken James?

Would be suspecting Master cylinder or slave if progressively getting nearer the floor?
Click to expand...
yes you are right never read it properly before
 
lynall said:
If its at the top its probably shagged or somethings about to fail.
Mileage doesnt really mean anything.


Lynall
Click to expand...

fitted a brand new borg&beck last year with reinforced fork that has bitten from the top since fitted. master and slave cylinders replaced at a later date.

lasted over a year and still going strong, think some clutches are just adjusted that way.




Bobbler :rolleyes:
 
some slaves have shims in that can be removed (sandwiched between slave and bellhousing)when youve removed top plate off pedal box you need to wind nuts toward end of rod so pedal has greater stroke ,but be careful fluid returns completely as sometimes it dosent and clutch can get ratchetted on ,not likely but i have seen it a good few times
 
jamesmartin said:
no as friction material gets thinner diaphragm fingers move out towards gearbox,not usualy that noticeable on lrs as slave pushes release brg against diaphragm from the start giving longer travel needed to clear, over adjusting can lead to fluid not been able to return properly giving slipping of clutch especially in situation were clutch used alot in short space of time
Click to expand...

according to the manual td5 clutchs are not adjustable. so guess i bleed system first and if no better can i expect to put in a new clutch soon. or is there another reason?
 
I would try to bleed the clutch as it could be that the hydraulic fluid has never been changed and over time it will deteriorate and start to compress or may have become contaminated. Pump it all through and replace it first. Its an easy job and only takes 10mins
 
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