Classic door seal

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norseman

norseman

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,153
Location
Essex - UK
I'm going to replace the driver's door seal soon & wondered if anyone can tell me how the rubber attaches to the body shell. I assume any competent body-shop will know how to do the job but it would be nice if I had the knowledge too.
Thanks in advance guys.
 
Thank you for that info. which now raises another query:
Is it preferable to purchase 'Classic RR door seal' from one of the many LR parts outlets or go for the Woolies generic product ie which is likely to be the best quality?
 
Having posted I'm now not convinced that the rubber seal is at fault. I've just trapped a single sheet of paper towel between the window frame & rubber, in various positions & can't pull the paper out without tearing which is giving me the impression that the door is making contact with the seal. It's definitely water & not coolant that's making the insulation materials UNDER the carpet wet so when the weather improves it's time to remove floor covering & being in the car while someone uses a spray hose outside.
nb: the water ingress is occurring whilst the car is parked, so it's not spray from the wheels & the 'screen seal seems in good condition.
 
Take the door card off. There should be a plastic sheet stuck to the metal of the door covering all the apertures in the metal.
If this weather sheet is missing then water running down the outside of the door glass will drip onto the back of the door card & then into the car. The waist seals don't stop a lot of it. Very common headscratcher not just on LR & frequently missing or damaged.
Plastic sheet is usually fixed with this stuff which is excellent although any adhesive sealant will work: https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/de/butyl-sealer-strip-7-metre

Also look on the engine bay side of the bulkhead at the pedal mounting plate No23 in this diagram, there's one each side. The seal No24 can fail & allow rainwater in. Either dismantle & replace seal or thoroughly degrease around the plate & apply a bead of silicone or other sealant: http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?SPRACHE=EN&PAGE=779709
 
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norseman said:
Thank you for that info. which now raises another query:
Is it preferable to purchase 'Classic RR door seal' from one of the many LR parts outlets or go for the Woolies generic product ie which is likely to be the best quality?
Click to expand...

OOPs. Apologies. Missed that one. Although your later post about the paper does suggest yours is OK.
When I replaced the drivers one on mine - lots of old damage - I used one from one that was being broken for parts.
A new one advertised for use with RRC should fit without problems. The woolies link was to show how they fit, I don't know whether theirs is the right size so you would need to ask.

The main issues on mine were the weathersheets - lack of - and the bulkhead panel seal I've linked to. The latter done with a bead of sealant.
 
Ratae said:
OOPs. Apologies. Missed that one. Although your later post about the paper does suggest yours is OK.
The main issues on mine were the weathersheets - lack of - and the bulkhead panel seal I've linked to. The latter done with a bead of sealant.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, come the better weather ...
 
After so much faffing (you tend to do a lot of that at my age) I'm going to replace the aperture seal on the drivers door at least & maybe all four.
My question is regarding fitment: Browsing their web-site illustrations Rimmers do individual seals in a strip whereas the famous Four product, at over twice the price, appears to have squared off top corners so I'm wondering which design is the best bet. Also is an adhesive used, or the seal simply pressed over a lip ?
Thanks in advance for any help/opinions.
 
Pressed over a lip.
On reflection lip's perhaps a bit of a misnomer it's just a straight metal edge that the seal pushes onto
 
Last edited:
norseman said:
Rimmers do individual seals in a strip whereas the famous Four product, at over twice the price, appears to have squared off top corners so I'm wondering which design is the best bet.

Sorry to start off the year with a return to an old post :(
I purchased the Rimmer variety & my local garage is happy to do the job but point out that it will be necessary to cut the 'grip' side of the trim at the top corners in order to bend the seal into an angle. Will doing this be detrimental to the sealing effect, ie induce wind noise. My own thoughts are, can this be prevented by smearing something like black adhesive/silicone onto that part of the frame prior to fitting in order to fill the gap where the seal has been cut?
Thanks in advance for any help/opinions
Click to expand...
 
I would have thought that cutting - perhaps as a mitred joint? - and using sealant might be OK.
 
i'd try a hot air gun to warm the rubber a lot and form it into the turn and let it cool

also you can take an offcut and form a v cut and use black rubber glue to glue the v into place
 
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