Chassis removed what to do? Video
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Scooby22
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Although I have seen worse, having gone so far as removing the chassis I would buy a new galvanised chassis for the rebuild.
Colthebrummie
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I would too. The one in the video could be cleaned. Patched, painted and sold on to someone who needs a decent budget chassis. It's a lot of work getting as far as this.
Col
TorsionBhudda
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If money is really tight I would repair it and then start saving for new chassis it won't just be £2000 for the chassis because once you get into it the costs will go up and up on things like all new bolts, new suspension, brake lines etc etc. When i did my chassis it probably cost me double what the chassis cost by time I bought everything else.
As for building a new chassis yourself I wouldn't recommend that as the chassis has to be perfectly aligned and straight companies like Richards Chassis have all the parts cut by CNC machines and welded together in jigs.
As for building a new chassis yourself I wouldn't recommend that as the chassis has to be perfectly aligned and straight companies like Richards Chassis have all the parts cut by CNC machines and welded together in jigs.
BuzzLand
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Och aye the noo Jimmie!
Cool 80s music, goes well with the video. Well done on getting the chassis removed too.
Looks like a bit of work but it doesn't seem awful from my amateur eye. Definitely needs some TLC and restoration. I reckon that chassis is not beyond repair.
Take still pictures of all the problem areas if you can, post em up, the video is hard to make out. I'd use a grinder like you just used, but with a thick grinder disc (looks like a cutting disc you were using?) or equivalent to get busy on the problem areas.
Timestamp 2:53 chassis area looks nasty, but repairable if you can magic up some steel plate to wield on (after cutting out the rust etc).
Galvanizing the chassis? It would work but the job entails a molten zinc dip plus caustic preparations, acid baths etc. Would need a dedicated workshop for that I think. Not sure on cost for that.
Given it looks like that on the outside, and it will be worse on the inside ( 
), then I'd be replacing with a new galv one.
Sorry.
On the upside, you have got that far, so it'd almost be daft not too ...abd you'll end up with a vehicle which should last a lifetime, (with decent maintenance).
ALSO - Make damn sure it goes on agreed value insurance in case the worst happens - and if money is tight right now, then only do the stuff you have to do now, like brake pipes - re-use as many bushes and bolts as possible, and replace them later as time and funds allow ...
Great vid by the way
), then I'd be replacing with a new galv one.Sorry.
On the upside, you have got that far, so it'd almost be daft not too ...abd you'll end up with a vehicle which should last a lifetime, (with decent maintenance).
ALSO - Make damn sure it goes on agreed value insurance in case the worst happens - and if money is tight right now, then only do the stuff you have to do now, like brake pipes - re-use as many bushes and bolts as possible, and replace them later as time and funds allow ...
Great vid by the way
^^ this. You have done most of the hard work already I would not even consider refitting the old chassis given the stage you have already got to.
Well ok I think your right. New chassis it is [GALLERY=][/GALLERY]then . My plasma torch just went timing eh. I am going to build a chassis as I dont have a spare 2 grand after building this house extension. I recon it will cost about £90 for the sheet steel £160 for the dipping and about £300 for all the brackets ie spring holders oh I was a plater many years ago 1988 to be exact. So any ideas on how to get a template of the chassis legs cardboard template or what. I've got a good 330 amp oxford waiting to go so here goes.
Discodevon
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Hello there how long did it take to get it to that stage???
Gmacz
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Never understood a word
You were grinding and hitting the wrong bit.
Get the hammer on the underside and the outer side rails and then see what comes up. Top of the chassis is the best bit, all the rest is exposed or where the moisture sits.
Got the money - new chassis.
Nae money - get the welder out.
You were grinding and hitting the wrong bit.
Get the hammer on the underside and the outer side rails and then see what comes up. Top of the chassis is the best bit, all the rest is exposed or where the moisture sits.
Got the money - new chassis.
Nae money - get the welder out.
flat
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How does that work vehicle identity wise? The vehicles identity is associated with the chassis not the body panels etc.
I'd well I can tell you stories about that not just landrovers. To prove a stolen car or a ringer they need 10 points like say someones car has a scratch on the glove box and a hole in the side of a back seat ect. For keeping the reg what they do is they look at the date stamp on thing like the seat belts and the wiring loom they all have manufacturer date stamps in plastic. If I am displaying a g reg but all the plastic date to say 2003 they will q plate it so really there is no problem. Years ago we were welding a jag cant mind what model but it was still worth something. It needed welding where the chassis number was ie doing away with the number. We phoned the stolen car squad in glasgow. The car was about 7 year old they were not interested because of the cars age. So they only time you would get problems is like I said above they think it's a ringer ie 2013 or something like that and all the plastic date to that year but is showing a 1989 plate. I could put a number on it but what's the point
LolNever understood a word
You were grinding and hitting the wrong bit.
Get the hammer on the underside and the outer side rails and then see what comes up. Top of the chassis is the best bit, all the rest is exposed or where the moisture sits.
Got the money - new chassis.
Nae money - get the welder out.
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Well, I understood every word.
Loved the novelty of the video, great idea.
It gets the scrap it vote from me too. It's had new front out riggers, a new rear cross member, the inner chassis rails where the gear box cross member bolts to is shot (very common place which is hidden from sight behind the gearbox cross member flange) the front end, near the dumb irons, is shot. And as Disco1BFG says, it'll be worse on the inside. Mine was similar to yours and when I cut it up it was pretty deep in rust scale inside some parts of the chassis rails.
The best advice is to go galvanised if you can. TorsionBhudda is spot on though! Once you invest in a new chassis you feel compelled not to waste it by bolting crap stuff to it and so cost creep up - a lot I think the same phenomenon will happen if you build your own from scratch, though creating the chassis yourself should give you a cheaper start.
I've no idea how insurance companies react to home made chassis? There's a member on here called owl who built his own chassis for a competition Landy. His build thread is HERE However, I think he just uses it as a comp vehicle and he transports it on a trailer. ie not road legal. I could be wrong though, because it's a while since I've looked at that thread. It's defo worth a read through though because he does an amazing job. Finished vehicle looks mint
Whatever you decide to do, keep posting pictures of it on here, I reckon you've got quite a few of us interested already. Good luck.
Loved the novelty of the video, great idea.
It gets the scrap it vote from me too. It's had new front out riggers, a new rear cross member, the inner chassis rails where the gear box cross member bolts to is shot (very common place which is hidden from sight behind the gearbox cross member flange) the front end, near the dumb irons, is shot. And as Disco1BFG says, it'll be worse on the inside. Mine was similar to yours and when I cut it up it was pretty deep in rust scale inside some parts of the chassis rails.
The best advice is to go galvanised if you can. TorsionBhudda is spot on though! Once you invest in a new chassis you feel compelled not to waste it by bolting crap stuff to it and so cost creep up - a lot
I think the same phenomenon will happen if you build your own from scratch, though creating the chassis yourself should give you a cheaper start. I've no idea how insurance companies react to home made chassis? There's a member on here called owl who built his own chassis for a competition Landy. His build thread is HERE However, I think he just uses it as a comp vehicle and he transports it on a trailer. ie not road legal. I could be wrong though, because it's a while since I've looked at that thread. It's defo worth a read through though because he does an amazing job. Finished vehicle looks mint
Whatever you decide to do, keep posting pictures of it on here, I reckon you've got quite a few of us interested already. Good luck.
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Are you going ahead with the make it yourself plan?
Why not I will only need 2 sheets of 2mm steel and a couple of days. It will take longer to cut out the shape as my plasma cutter has went . I'll just cut the shape with 1mm cutting discs 4 off and once that's done 4 strips of 75mm and that's the legs done
Scooby22
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Unless you get it spot on you will have a hell of a job lining up the bulkhead, doors, windscreen and rear body tub, people usually struggle with a correctly jigged chassis.
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