Charge light on series 3

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

series 3

New Member
Posts
3
Hi, my diesel series 3 swb charge light is turning on I'm not sure if it's supposed to as I've read its not supposed to but very few say it's supposed to be. The pictures are before the soil wire was added video is no working

I've put a new wire in with no joins and cleaned the alternator terminals. The previous owner did replace the crossmember and bulkhead outrigger but light didn't come on until I wired in a the correct horn and is earthed to the battery
(used to be an air horn from the battery)
 

Attachments

  • 20241013_112334.jpg
    20241013_112334.jpg
    266.3 KB · Views: 56
  • 20241013_112325.jpg
    20241013_112325.jpg
    194.6 KB · Views: 56
Last edited:
Check for voltage down the charging light wire with ign on but engine not running, then check for volts at the battery with the engine running.

I take it none of your horn wires go anywhere near the alternator?
 
Charge Light should only come on when ignition turned on, then go off as soon as you start engine.
Check battery leads are tight and no more than 1" movement on longest stretch of fan belt. You should have about 14.5 volts across battery with engine running if you can check that the battery is charging.
After that confirm alternator cables are on correctly. If you put a spanner on the terminals to tighten disconnect battery negative first.
 
Check for voltage down the charging light wire with ign on but engine not running, then check for volts at the battery with the engine running.

I take it none of your horn wires go anywhere near the alternator?
I've only got a chance to check the landy and I'm getting 12.6volts at the battery not running and I'm getting 14.18 when running.
I'm also getting 16.42 volt at the alternator light body
inbound473085000966717342.jpg

I've also had to replace this and there was no problem as it was replaced 2 months agoinbound5277405381019729839.jpginbound1803311363369905063.jpg
 

Attachments

  • inbound2634929539475265352.jpg
    inbound2634929539475265352.jpg
    328.7 KB · Views: 41
  • inbound2746840375109803522.jpg
    inbound2746840375109803522.jpg
    328.7 KB · Views: 29
Not sure about about voltage at bulb I have never tried. However if comes on with ignition and goes out with engine running other voltage readings are good.
 
I have just had an issue with mine, I installed a new loom with bulb housinh attached. Alternator wasn't charging the battery. Figured out it was the charge light body grounding to the gauge cluster. Which caused the light not to go out. I am unsure if you are having a similar issue but try taking it out of the gauge cluster and see if it works?
 
I have just had an issue with mine, I installed a new loom with bulb housinh attached. Alternator wasn't charging the battery. Figured out it was the charge light body grounding to the gauge cluster. Which caused the light not to go out. I am unsure if you are having a similar issue but try taking it out of the gauge cluster and see if it works?
I'm not having that issue as the alternator is charging as I'm getting 14.18 volts when running and I've checked the charge light body by taking it away from the gauge cluster and the light is still on. I've earthed the charge light body and it's brighter. Oil pressure light is off aswell as low fuel light when engine is running but oil pressure light is on for a few seconds when starting the engine and then it's off.
 
This thread has just reminded me that I don't have a replacement alternator ready to drop into my daily driver when the inevitable occurs (usually in the worst bit of winter).
Present Lucas ACR unit is genuine British made item, but is stuffed full of Chinese made parts - rectifier, regulator, brushes.
Been totally reliable for about five years now.
From the description so far, I'm pretty well stumped.
When you're satisfied that it's not a vehicle wiring issue, start substituting parts in the alternator
 
Back
Top