Disco 1 Causes of rust in the rear end

Afternoon, I'm in the process of buying a very tidy disco 1 that hasn't got any rust... yet.. are there any key drain holes to clear and areas that I can treat for help prevent water sitting and the rear end rotting out?
Cheers

When u get your disco u will see lots of drain holes in the chassis, if you find any blocked then the vehicle has been in mud at some time, all the holes are accessible and easy to poke clear, then flush out the chassis.
All the drain holes are key to help in keeping the chassis rust fee, it's handy if the chassis had been rust proofed inside and out from the start but u can help by doing it again.

Are all disco chassis the same for drainage holes if they are is there a diagram somewhere that tells you were they all are

The c pillar is my main area for concern, trying to work out where the water is meant to drain rather than sit in the pillar

ideal what you guys recommended flushing out with

water - and lots of it.... through every orifice yu can find

hell that sounds moist

Jake ingleby said:

Are all disco chassis the same for drainage holes if they are is there a diagram somewhere that tells you were they all are

Click to expand...

No not all, D1 are the same as the early RRs and were rustproof from the factory, but some disco's don't have a chassis as such.
As for the D2s... one has to wonder what they have any when the way their chassis are now reported to be rusting. Perhaps the new owners didn't think rust proofing.

well when I brought mine 6 months ago first thing I thought I should do was wax oil it, don't think its ever been done but better late than never

I'll be definitely putting wax oil on it but I wanna sort the water issues out first and sealing up the back windows properly too

Also check out the boot floor. Liable to rust badly. I believe that a lot of the problem with boot floor is condensation from the inspection plate over the tank. On my Disco 1 after painting the boot floor I covered the plate with a full newspaper to absorb any condensation and changed it every couple of months. Boot floor was perfectly dry and rust free when I sold cat at 17 years old.

Jim A
2002 Disco2 Td5 auto
1996 Disco 1300Tdi auto(gone)

This may help.



Sent from my iPad Air on a train.

Pick up the carpet on the boot floor and get rid of the old insulating foam, mine had a sheet of rust attached so needed a new boot floor. You can get new insulation padding on ebay.

Dinitrol is very good, but go better and use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 in the chassis and any cavities and Dynax UB on any exposed areas.
Or if you really want it to rot away then squirt waxoyl in!

Hi all, I would swerve Waxoyling over Corosion like the plague as it will eventually trap moisture behind the wax and first stage corrosion will quickly turn to rot, this is especially true for the internal chassis surfaces. My Disco 2 chassis is like new ..both inside and out, simply by regularly coating with Duck oil (marketed by Swarfega) using a pump sprayer over the entire under side of the vehicle (protect discs from contamination with clean cloths). Spraying Duck oil onto the internal surfaces within the entire chassis (and cills) is crucial (Chassis Wand on eBay) will guarentee complete coverage. Duck oil is incredibly penetrating and will neutralise Corosion under wax and lifting painted/under-sealed surfaces, its passivating and moisture displacing properties will be active for 12 months on a corroded surface (although I repeat every six months and you can see that it stays permanently oil wetted)...simple, cost effective and very very effective.
Hope you find this helpful..