Bummer MOT Failed

Well Folks.
Just put the Freelander TD4 2002 in for a MOT and failed miserably
001 Anti-Lock braking system warning lamp does not illuminate [3.4.1b]
002 Brake pipe excessively corroded nearside front [3.6.B.2c]
003 " " " " offside rear "
004 " " " " nearside rear "
005 " " " " nearside rear (main) "
006 " " " " offside rear (main) "
Advisory
007 Brake pipe slightly corroded offside front [3.6.B.2c]
008 Brake pipe " " (offside and nearside front section mains) "
009 Front suspension ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt nearside [2.4.G.2]
Are we talking vice grippers and selling my body on the streets again don't go there?
Be gentle

it will not cost that much freelanders along with many other cars have problems with their brake pipes you can but the rubber to go on the ball joint but I would not I would just renew the ball joint

How long have you had the car?

Do the ABS/TC/HDCx2 lights not come on when you turn on the ignition? You should get all 4, then 3 go off after a couple of seconds leaving just the ABS and that goes once you get up to about 5MPH.

I believe the 4 lights are each controlled on separate wires from the ABS ECU to the dash. Its possible there may be a break there - but more likely the LED as been pulled by a previous owner to hide an ABS problem from MOT inspectors - this inspector didn't fall for it!

I believe what I've said it true - at least that's the case with early Freelander.

You'll probably need to get prices for all those pipes - but before doing anything it may be worth getting any codes read from the ABS system to know what you are up against there.

You'll obviously have a full bleed to do on the brakes after replacing those pipes - the only tip I'd give is that the ABS modulator may drain - I had problems clearing air blocks from it (mine's the early Wabco unit) and in the end I undid the outlet pipes and filled it with a syringe through those holes. I had subsequently heard a tip that you can hold the brake peddle down (with a piece of timber) and that stops fluid draining through the system (presumably by 'closing' the master inlet).

That's 10 quids worth of copper pipe and a dozen 15 pence fittings. Even if you were to buy a flaring tool to make the pipes yourself, your still under £60 for the repair. The ABS light could be more complex however.

For what its worth I had all my brake lines renewed on a Defender for £140 ... you need them all doing really and they are just a pain in the rear to do yourself IMHO... I was surprised it was that cheap.

HDC works okay and I tested by the gearbox flashed and stayed on when moving. TC no light. If that related to the Props and VCU which I have none only FWD. ABS no light unless blown or could this be related to having replaced the battery and having a computer hooked to give me a remote control. They must have been working since the last MOT last Feb as this would have been a fail according to the regs and a few searches on this site mentioned new MOT rules. I rebooked back into my Garage for repairs so a rough guess as to the prices will ease the blow.

I wonder what it would cost to have all brake pipes renewed on a TD4 in a garage?
I don't fancy working on a cold road to replace mine. Mine always get an advisory, so it's only a matter of time before they are a fail.

dog-man said:

I wonder what it would cost to have all brake pipes renewed on a TD4 in a garage?
I don't fancy working on a cold road to replace mine. Mine always get an advisory, so it's only a matter of time before they are a fail.

Click to expand...

They should be fine, not as if they control anything major, like a safety feature or such like!

I agree that brakes need to be correct, regardless of cost. However the brake pipes are quite fiddly to do properly on the Freelander. This means the labour will be much more than the pipe itself.
All the dash warning lights are LEDs which are generally very long lived. It's worth checking the connection at the back of the dash and the ABS ECU.

Eeeerrrr, am I not right in thinking the ABS circuit has its own fuse and relay?? Think I'd start there. Also get it up to 30mph on a quiet road and slam on the brakes, if you feel the brakes pulsing your ABS is working and it's just a duff led, if it skids down the road like a dog with an itchy arse and leaves constant skid marks, your ABS system ain't working. Mike

There are 2 HDC lights - I think they should both come on when ignition turned on then both go out unless you have HDC engaged.(switched on).

Have you noticed a change in the dash lights?

I think reading the codes might leave a few less skid marks (in your pants) than flying off down the road and slamming the anchors on. Rave will tell you which wires and pin from the ABS ECU/dash control the lights - they can be tested to see if they are 'high' or off.

If you've never made off brake pipes before and are not confident I'd take it to a garage. As someone else said probably a hundred and fifty or two hundred quid. I guess that is the cost of keeping an older car.

Fair enough Alibro I would rather my garage do the work than me barry cackhand. I checked on the ABS fuse on F7 5AMP and this was okay I even replaced with a new one to confirm. So really either bulb blown or something else. My ABS works fine as recently I had to use this once or twice driving on Manchester roads.

http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk Services like these guys will check your instrument cluster, repair it and post it back. Those led lights are fiddly to repair. Mike