Broken Bolt using normal pressure

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illiadie

New Member
Posts
21
Hi All

My Range rover 2.5dse has been slow to start and was needing a lot of cranking lately, so I took the inlet Manifold off yesterday and replaced the Glow plugs and the off leak pipes, while putting the manifold back I cracked off one of the bolts, strangely using I think normal pressure of 22nm according to the Manual.
My question is can this be repaired or replaced,The bolt looks like it's part of the block?
Coincidently The Glow plugs solved my slow starting.

Any help appreciated.

regard illiadie
 
illiadie said:
Hi All

My Range rover 2.5dse has been slow to start and was needing a lot of cranking lately, so I took the inlet Manifold off yesterday and replaced the Glow plugs and the off leak pipes, while putting the manifold back I cracked off one of the bolts, strangely using I think normal pressure of 22nm according to the Manual.
My question is can this be repaired or replaced,The bolt looks like it's part of the block?
Coincidently The Glow plugs solved my slow starting.

Any help appreciated.

regard illiadie
Click to expand...

Yes it can be replaced the problem being removing the old broken stud. If it has parted with any shank showing and you can get a good pair of mole grips on a stud extractor on it well and good. If it has parted flush you will need a set of easy outs. These are used by drilling down the centre of the stud in this case possibly 5.5 mm and inserting a suitable sized easy out. Be aware to use the largest one you can on the stud, slightly heat the area before applying a spanner to the easy out may help, make sure you are square on, breaking one of these off inside the stud will lead to great problems. Some come out without problems some are right bastards. If you do have to drill the stud out completely and damage the head you can always fix the thread with a helicoil so all is not lost.

PS Don't try drilling down the stud with a 5.5 drill. Centre pop stud then do a 4 mm pilot hole first. Make sure drill is straight and true. Then carefully drill straight and true down stud with larger drill.
 
Last edited:
Hi Wammers

Many thanks for the reply, Glad to hear it can be removed,

Yes some of the shank is visible,

So with a mole grips or a stud extractor these can be taken out ? Anti clockwise? ( haven done this before)
 
You only get one or two chances with a mole grip before it slips and polishes or chews up the stub so make sure there is enough sticking out and the grips are good quality and tight. To be 100% sure about the thread, buy the replacement first and check it but more than likely to be anti-clockwise to come out. Once you've got a good grip ease it back and forth a few times rather than just leaning on it hoping it'll give. Good advice to heat it first with a small blow torch but watch where the flame licks to and don't overdo it otherwise you could cook and distort or crack the head.

Be aware that if one has gone, another could be ready to depart so try to examine the others for cracks, which is difficult I know, and don't be complacent when tightening them up because you could just have to do it over again.
 
illiadie said:
Hi Wammers

Many thanks for the reply, Glad to hear it can be removed,

Yes some of the shank is visible,

So with a mole grips or a stud extractor these can be taken out ? Anti clockwise? ( haven done this before)
Click to expand...

Yes anticlockwise. Make sure you have a good hold and are as square on as you can get.
 
Personally I don't like mole grips, once they slip it's likely you will not be able to get a grip again. My method is slower but I think better. I file flats on opposite sides of the stud to be a tight fit in an open ended spanner and do it that way.
 
Datatek said:
Personally I don't like mole grips, once they slip it's likely you will not be able to get a grip again. My method is slower but I think better. I file flats on opposite sides of the stud to be a tight fit in an open ended spanner and do it that way.
Click to expand...

A good set of Moles does the job most times IF you get a good square grip AND you have something to get hold of. The trick is to grip a couple of times tightening grips between applications to dig in and get a proper hold. Of course a proper stud extractor is always best IF you can get a hold of stud. Mole grips will remove a stud you cannot get on with a stud extractor. When i talk of Mole grips i mean real Mole grips not the crappy excuse for grips you can buy cheap, were the bolt is often harder than the serrated jaws.
 
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