Brake problems - RRC

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Khryztal

Khryztal

New Member
Posts
725
Location
Felcourt. Surrey
Hi guys and girls,

Just getting my classic ready for the MOT. Had a problem with the brakes for a few months now. ABS light stays on. I know that it means there is a fault.
No idea what it is though. Sometimes the lights goes out but the brakes are then very bad. Almost solid pedal, and the vehicle jumps, judders etc.
But then the ABS lamp will come back on adn the brakes work well.

Wondered if it was air in the system, so bleed the pump. Small amount of bubbles. Ramped up the Pump took about 57 seconds and did the acculator. Milky coloured fluid coming out. ABS pump kicks in and re pressurizes. Again about a minute.

There are no leaks that I can find in the entire system. All brakes were done last year for MOT. Worked fine for about 8 months.

Pump was replaced this year with a second hand one. Runs well. No funny noises.

Could the problem be with acculator or my bleeding???

I am using a pressure bleed kit btw.
 
Don't think so. I think it is just air mixed with the fluid. When it goes into the jar I'm using it returns to just liquid.

Gonna try and bleed the entire system today. See if that does anything.

Hows the gearbox?
 
Wheel bearings is all fine.
Had a look at the maynes book earlier about the blink code. it says something about a female plug needed. Bled the abs pump, accumulator and the two nipples on the side of the brake mastercylinder.resovoir area. pump now cuts off after about 40 seconds. But cuts in again after 2 pumps of the pedal. Air in system still. So going to bled entire system out.
 
Get the blink code! Make sure you are chasing the right gremlin.

It could be nothing more than a bit of air in the system, it is a real test of patience to bleed, I think I once used something like 10 litres of brake fluid to bleed it, but I dont recall having air in the system triggering the ABS warning light.

You don't need a female plug to get the blink code, you just need to remove the warning light relay and use a paper clip or solid core wire to make a jumper between ground and pin 14. Haynes tells you how to do this, take the diagnostic plug and put the jumper between the black wire and the black/pink wire.

Then follow the procedure in Haynes to read the blink codes and clear the ABS memory. Then you can properly start to diagnose the problem.
 
Last edited:
Khryztal said:
Don't think so. I think it is just air mixed with the fluid. When it goes into the jar I'm using it returns to just liquid.

Gonna try and bleed the entire system today. See if that does anything.

Hows the gearbox?
Click to expand...

The spare box is in for a rebuild (glad I spent the £30 on that as I can still drive it for the week or so t takes them to do the rebuild) then it goes in for two days fitting and I get relieved of £800:(

That is more or less half price and I have full come back if anything is wrong so I cant grumble it that respect. I just wish I had never had the oil changes in the first place!:doh:
 
Khryztal, You absolutly sure them rear bearings are tight, the rear sensors are fussy buggers and if there is even a minute amount of play the wont register, the juddering is more than likely to be from when they do get excited and send message to ecu to operate the abs unit that has not been operating for a while and internal pressures are all out of wack.
Front bearings are not as sensitave but all is critical to be no side movement at all.

Oh, forgot to mention, and softly tap sensors down till its seated.
 
Last edited:
classic kev said:
Get the blink code! Make sure you are chasing the right gremlin.

It could be nothing more than a bit of air in the system, it is a real test of patience to bleed, I think I once used something like 10 litres of brake fluid to bleed it, but I dont recall having air in the system triggering the ABS warning light.

You don't need a female plug to get the blink code, you just need to remove the warning light relay and use a paper clip or solid core wire to make a jumper between ground and pin 14. Haynes tells you how to do this, take the diagnostic plug and put the jumper between the black wire and the black/pink wire.

Then follow the procedure in Haynes to read the blink codes and clear the ABS memory. Then you can properly start to diagnose the problem.
Click to expand...


I'll try to get the blink code at the weekend. Can't get to the passenger side atm as it's parked right up against the side of the car port, while we do a load of work on the drive way.
 
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