Best DIY book for Defenders?

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Tumbleweed

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Hi, Im new here. Ive had 2 defenders over the last 8 years, and am about to buy a 3rd. Faced with the ever increasing prices, im looking to build my knowledge of these machines and try to do more work myself to keep my investment running smoothly for both family and work.

Can you recommend the best book(s) for general maintenance for Defenders?

Many Thanks
 
Tumbleweed said:
Hi, Im new here. Ive had 2 defenders over the last 8 years, and am about to buy a 3rd. Faced with the ever increasing prices, im looking to build my knowledge of these machines and try to do more work myself to keep my investment running smoothly for both family and work.

Can you recommend the best book(s) for general maintenance for Defenders?

Many Thanks
Click to expand...

The Brooklands Books reprint of the genuine Land Rover manual is very good. Or you can download RAVE for free off the internet.
Personally I prefer a hard copy book.
 
This might help.
Volume6.jpg
 
Watch the landcover toolbox videos page on youtube, that and busters guide on hear will keep you busy for a while. Get a workshop manual for detail and torque settings and a parts manual for...well... parts
 
The most useful thing I have is the parts manual, which itself has a part number, STC9021CC. The exploded diagrams are a bit small, but very detailed so it's ideal when you want to see what order items go - washers, seals, spacers and the like. Plus you know what all the parts are called, so you can order them reasonably accurately.
 
Ive bought a Haines manual for almost every car I have ever owned but they are not as good as they used to be and in some cases, not accurate. Therefore, don't bother with them except as a last resort.

Col
 
Personally, I don't mind Haynes manuals. They're OK as a procedural guide and if you don't mind improvising when your car doesn't quite look like the pictures in the manual, they're quite serviceable.
 
Brown said:
The most useful thing I have is the parts manual, which itself has a part number, STC9021CC. The exploded diagrams are a bit small, but very detailed so it's ideal when you want to see what order items go - washers, seals, spacers and the like. Plus you know what all the parts are called, so you can order them reasonably accurately.
Click to expand...

+1 - and download RAVE. :)

My opinion of Haynes is pretty low, and I'd suggest there's good reason they are often termed the "book of lies" on the interweb. Historically, they were better ... :rolleyes: - which is, apparently, called progress o_O ...... :D
 
Disco1BFG said:
+1 - and download RAVE. :)

My opinion of Haynes is pretty low, and I'd suggest there's good reason they are often termed the "book of lies" on the interweb. Historically, they were better ... :rolleyes: - which is, apparently, called progress o_O ...... :D
Click to expand...

Haynes were quite good for simple little 70s cars, like Escorts and Vivas. When it comes to more complex vehicles, like modern cars and Landrovers, there simply isn't enough space in the Haynes format to explain everything in terms that an amateur mechanic can understand.
 
I've done everything with a Haines manual. They are inexpensive and, personally, I find the very good! Not much on a defender is complicated really, just take lots of time, keep your cool and you'll save a bundle of cash!

I also don't trust garages to do a perfect job, how id do it myself, and, most importantly, I'm a tight fisted git! :)
 
Gottschalk said:
I've done everything with a Haines manual. They are inexpensive and, personally, I find the very good! Not much on a defender is complicated really, just take lots of time, keep your cool and you'll save a bundle of cash!

I also don't trust garages to do a perfect job, how id do it myself, and, most importantly, I'm a tight fisted git! :)
Click to expand...

They are simple, but there are quite lot of simple things, due to the 4wd, and other features.
You should try the reprint genuine manuals, I doubt if you will go back to Haynes.
 
Turboman said:
They are simple, but there are quite lot of simple things, due to the 4wd, and other features.
You should try the reprint genuine manuals, I doubt if you will go back to Haynes.
Click to expand...

You might be right, but tbh I don't really feel the need to buy anything else at the moment. I've always used Haynes manuals for every vehicle I've had.

I know they're not perfect, for example when replacing the water pump on a td5 it said to remove the turbo...which I didn't do and saved me a shed load of time, I guess I've been around landys my entire life so I can figure most things...if I ever do get stuck ill take your advice though and get a reprint! ;)
 
Gottschalk said:
You might be right, but tbh I don't really feel the need to buy anything else at the moment. I've always used Haynes manuals for every vehicle I've had.

I know they're not perfect, for example when replacing the water pump on a td5 it said to remove the turbo...which I didn't do and saved me a shed load of time, I guess I've been around landys my entire life so I can figure most things...if I ever do get stuck ill take your advice though and get a reprint! ;)
Click to expand...

The reprint manuals are better for the experienced mechanic. They contain very little about procedures, as they assume the reader will be a qualified LR mechanic working in a dealers.

What you say is exactly what irritates me about Haynes, they contain lots of stuff about how to do things for the amateur. I have been working on machinery for 40 years, I know exactly what to do, but I want measurements, specs, and any special technical info relating to the vehicle in question.
 
Turboman said:
The reprint manuals are better for the experienced mechanic. They contain very little about procedures, as they assume the reader will be a qualified LR mechanic working in a dealers.

What you say is exactly what irritates me about Haynes, they contain lots of stuff about how to do things for the amateur. I have been working on machinery for 40 years, I know exactly what to do, but I want measurements, specs, and any special technical info relating to the vehicle in question.
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Yeah sometimes those little mistakes irritate me, but, i am an amateur. I don't have any qualification in engineering or mechanics, and they do have plenty of technical info, especially the older ones for the rrc and series 3. You can strip a gearbox and rebuild going by the Haynes. Admittedly the later ones are less technical. Each to their own, im happy with it!
 
Gottschalk said:
Yeah sometimes those little mistakes irritate me, but, i am an amateur. I don't have any qualification in engineering or mechanics, and they do have plenty of technical info, especially the older ones for the rrc and series 3. You can strip a gearbox and rebuild going by the Haynes. Admittedly the later ones are less technical. Each to their own, im happy with it!
Click to expand...

The series Haynes were better, although I had genuine manuals for my series as well. The Haynes for Ninety, One Ten and Defender I couldn't get on with.
 
Yes, but part of the fun of working with the Haynes manual is spotting the mistakes. Many years ago when we were doing something with the steering on our old Series 2 Forward Control we noticed it said something about setting the tracking accurately - 'do not use planks of wood or other such makeshift devices'. It also gave the exact centre to centre distance for the track rod ball joints in inches and metric. If you converted one to the other they were clearly both different. Not only that but they were different from what was actually needed. So we used planks of wood and makeshift devices and it was much better and didn't scrub the tread off the tyres. Moreover, with the bonnet out of the way, the Haynes manual is just the right size to put on the windscreen with the wipers holding the pages down. Generally a genuine factory workshop manual is too thick.
 
Brown said:
The most useful thing I have is the parts manual, which itself has a part number, STC9021CC. The exploded diagrams are a bit small, but very detailed so it's ideal when you want to see what order items go - washers, seals, spacers and the like. Plus you know what all the parts are called, so you can order them reasonably accurately.
Click to expand...

+1, having both the manual and part diagram sitting next to you whilst working is invaluable
 
Brown said:
Yes, but part of the fun of working with the Haynes manual is spotting the mistakes. Many years ago when we were doing something with the steering on our old Series 2 Forward Control we noticed it said something about setting the tracking accurately - 'do not use planks of wood or other such makeshift devices'. It also gave the exact centre to centre distance for the track rod ball joints in inches and metric. If you converted one to the other they were clearly both different. Not only that but they were different from what was actually needed. So we used planks of wood and makeshift devices and it was much better and didn't scrub the tread off the tyres. Moreover, with the bonnet out of the way, the Haynes manual is just the right size to put on the windscreen with the wipers holding the pages down. Generally a genuine factory workshop manual is too thick.
Click to expand...

I never have the manual with me when I am working. I have a quick read of what I am going to do, if it is something I haven't done dozens of times before. Then I go out and do the job. None of my manuals have ever left the house, which is why they are in perfect condition with no greasy fingerprints on them. :)

The way I do steering bars is to remove the bar, and put it upside down on the bench, and draw round the ends. When I have put the new track rod ends in, I adjust them until they fit exactly in the drawing. No measuring required.
 
I like a manual with lots of dirty fingerprints. In fact, on our old Morris's, Vauxhalls and Triumphs back in the 1980s you could look at the book from the side and see which aspects of the car had been dealt with by how dirty the pages were. Engine and transmission chapters were generally pretty black, and the upholstery and trim chapters stayed clean, because we weren't so bothered about them.
 
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