Bang goes another prop

Has anybody got a clue as to why I've now snapped 2 front props on my td5 90? First one I was kinda asking for, loads of articulation and gunning it. Today my 2 day old double carden one decided to snap on the flat with barely any drive, I was just pulling away in reverse no big revs and bang! Front yolk snapped yet again. Can't think why this would happen, surely any major miss allingment would show other symptoms first?

Was it a brand name , or a cheapie?

Cheers

First one was the original I believe. Second double carden was from JGS, a disco 2 front one. "Extreme use prop" so it said on the site. suppose you get what you pay for, just didn't expect it to snap on the flat under no load.

I only see the two on their website, one is the HD version that was for the Auto the other is the manual one as they describe it.

I would be calling them ASAP if the Yoke has snapped. But then you say the first one snapped at the front yoke as well, very strange. Got any piccies?

Cheers

Closed until Tuesday, bloody bank holidays!

That's gone well..... I think they will probably replace it incase it was faulty but I'm guessing you've got an issue with your front drive train. Personally I dunno where to start.

Willbof said:

Has anybody got a clue as to why I've now snapped 2 front props on my td5 90? First one I was kinda asking for, loads of articulation and gunning it. Today my 2 day old double carden one decided to snap on the flat with barely any drive, I was just pulling away in reverse no big revs and bang! Front yolk snapped yet again. Can't think why this would happen, surely any major miss allingment would show other symptoms first?

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The second prop may have snapped under mild conditions, but the damage may have been done sometime before. The failure suggests the articulation angle has been exceeded. How much of a crazy, long travel suspension set-up have you got? Are your various bushes and mounts in good nick? What about a wide-angle prop?

+2" springs, +2" shocks, extended bumps, castor correction that's about all.
Not sure if you can see it in the image but looking closely at the break one side is clean and the other appears to have paint on the face of the break! Possibly a crack before hand assuming this prop is reconditioned?

And you wonder why props are failing. Although looking at the granulation on the broken bits, the yolk looks more like a case iron break rather than cast steel which it should be.

Time to contact the supplier, although they may argue you should have bought a wide-angle prop. I can't see the paint too clearly in the pic, so get another decent pic and go from there.

Heading back to manufacturer for inspection. See what happens I suppose.

Sweet, I take it you spoke to JGS,

Who is the manufacturer?

Cheers

Willbof said:

Has anybody got a clue as to why I've now snapped 2 front props on my td5 90? First one I was kinda asking for, loads of articulation and gunning it. Today my 2 day old double carden one decided to snap on the flat with barely any drive, I was just pulling away in reverse no big revs and bang! Front yolk snapped yet again. Can't think why this would happen, surely any major miss allingment would show other symptoms first?

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DA code is a Britpart - send it back and get your money back. Total tripe.

You said it broke in reverse with little drive - my guess is it fractured on one side of the yoke during your "gunning" at some time earlier, going into reverse may have then applied the drive against the fracture - opened it up and bang. You never really know when damage has been done to things like this - the point the item yields is just that, yield point not the initial cause.

discomania said:

DA code is a Britpart - send it back and get your money back. Total tripe.

You said it broke in reverse with little drive - my guess is it fractured on one side of the yoke during your "gunning" at some time earlier, going into reverse may have then applied the drive against the fracture - opened it up and bang. You never really know when damage has been done to things like this - the point the item yields is just that, yield point not the initial cause.

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It's in the post, hopefully I'll get my money back. Thing had only done 100 miles and was yet to be put under any real strain.

Willbof said:

It's in the post, hopefully I'll get my money back. Thing had only done 100 miles and was yet to be put under any real strain.

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So after a 100 miles you are left propless??

Cheers

neilly said:

So after a 100 miles you are left propless??

Cheers

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Yup, had a spare standard one at home so that's on there for now until I get a resolution.

Willbof said:

Yup, had a spare standard one at home so that's on there for now until I get a resolution.

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I would try a plant/agri engineers, we used to get props made up all the time for special purposes on projects, they were not that expensive either. Props are actually quite easy to make, you have the joint assemblies, and then the shaft which comes in lengths, they cut it to length, the inner yoke has a small spigot on it that slides down inside the shaft, they weld it up. It should then be balanced but it depends how neat and careful you are with your welds and things. I have seen good props that were not balanced work well with no vibration or visible run-out.

Willbof said:

It's in the post, hopefully I'll get my money back. Thing had only done 100 miles and was yet to be put under any real strain.

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If you have a lift kit and castor correction and the angle from transfer box to prop and prop to axle are different and it is not phased correctly it has been under strain. Did you not take notice of the demo i posted? But to be fair the material the yolk is made from does look crap.

wammers said:

And you wonder why props are failing. Although looking at the granulation on the broken bits, the yolk looks more like a case iron break rather than cast steel which it should be.

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Very good demonstration in that video Warmmers.

wammers said:

And you wonder why props are failing. Although looking at the granulation on the broken bits, the yolk looks more like a case iron break rather than cast steel which it should be.

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One of the best explained videos I have seen in a long time