Trying to diagnose compressor surge from my Freelander 2... Not 100% sure if its connected but I have just had to replace my engine (seized). Had the turbo flutter before new engine and its still there now! Turbo looks and feels very healthy, no play ect... I have checked every inch of hose, no splits or holes... she was throwing a code that the actuator was ****ed, changed that and stopped the engine man light and limp mode but at this rate I'm close to giving up her guys... one last plea see if someone has any ideas?
Freelander 2 (LR2) Any turbo nerds out there?
- Thread starter Benson93
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Thanks for getting back to me mate!!
Mechanic recons it dropped a valve?! Didn't bother doing full diagnostics as it wasn't turning and he was very confident it was a goner. ( I was in a fortunate position that it was just as cost efficient to replace the block than to go down the diagnostic route) as a very good friend of mine did all the work. Of course my main worry now is, am I going to bugger this engine up if I leave this turbo flutter!!! Its been a real head scratcher for about 6 months now!
Sticking wastegate? Is the FL2 all motorized in that department? Its had a new electronic actuator... ( I know your not supposed to change em, but it was exactly like for like )
Mechanic recons it dropped a valve?! Didn't bother doing full diagnostics as it wasn't turning and he was very confident it was a goner. ( I was in a fortunate position that it was just as cost efficient to replace the block than to go down the diagnostic route) as a very good friend of mine did all the work. Of course my main worry now is, am I going to bugger this engine up if I leave this turbo flutter!!! Its been a real head scratcher for about 6 months now!
Sticking wastegate? Is the FL2 all motorized in that department? Its had a new electronic actuator... ( I know your not supposed to change em, but it was exactly like for like )
It may well be electronically controlled but should still have a waist gate to stop over boosting
Put a gauge on her and watch what pressure you are getting, if you are not dumping excess
Pressure it’s a sure fire method of blowing the engine,
The gauges are pretty cheap and simple to fit and at the very least it will eliminate that side of the induction as being
The problem,
Put a gauge on her and watch what pressure you are getting, if you are not dumping excess
Pressure it’s a sure fire method of blowing the engine,
The gauges are pretty cheap and simple to fit and at the very least it will eliminate that side of the induction as being
The problem,
Okay mate brilliant, I will get on ebay now! Could she be over boosting then? sending more air than the engine needs or can burn? ... I wonder if its worth while trying to find out if the last owner has tried to re map it, and done it wrong? Would that cause this?!
I may be leading you up the garden path, but on your exhaust manifold or down pipe you should
Have a pressure sensor, this will control the maximum pressure your turbo puts out,
So worth checking it’s output, but the straight mechanical gauge will show your absolute pressures
Cutting out all the electronic crap,
Have a pressure sensor, this will control the maximum pressure your turbo puts out,
So worth checking it’s output, but the straight mechanical gauge will show your absolute pressures
Cutting out all the electronic crap,
Arctic2
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take a read of this below and do search also
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic23546.html?highlight=turbo+flutter
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic23546.html?highlight=turbo+flutter
That’s interesting but I also own a motor home that has a VVT turbo and the turbo blades would stick creating
A overboost that put the vehicle into limp home mode,
Had the turbo off a few times to free off the vanes but eventually replaced the turbo completely as any overboost isn’t good for the engine,
That brings me back to fitting a turbo gauge, cheap to buy and you can see exactly what boost you are getting, to my mind it’s a no brainier,
A overboost that put the vehicle into limp home mode,
Had the turbo off a few times to free off the vanes but eventually replaced the turbo completely as any overboost isn’t good for the engine,
That brings me back to fitting a turbo gauge, cheap to buy and you can see exactly what boost you are getting, to my mind it’s a no brainier,
Rank Amatuer
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So that's turbo flutter. I though it was the swirl flaps bouncing around.
It could be, although under full boost the swirl flaps should be fully open.
The flutter could be the turbo actuator shifting the vanes about to maintain the maximum boost, without exceeding it. I don't believe the FL2 has over-boost like a lot of more modern engines, so presumably the vanes back off slightly to avoid an over-boost situation.
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