Any tips/pointers on changing brake pads on my l322?

Evening all, never needed to change the pads on a car so far. But the RR has flashed up check brake pads last week, so planning to change them tomorrow. Couldn't seem to find a how to, but could be wrong/not looking in the right place?!
Any pointers or is it an easy job? I am presuming the re is no need to bleed the system?
Also wondering if I need new wear sensors or if these can be reused?

KernowSam said:

Evening all, never needed to change the pads on a car so far. But the RR has flashed up check brake pads last week, so planning to change them tomorrow. Couldn't seem to find a how to, but could be wrong/not looking in the right place?!
Any pointers or is it an easy job? I am presuming the re is no need to bleed the system?
Also wondering if I need new wear sensors or if these can be reused?

Click to expand...

With all due respect, you're going to mess with the most important part of your vehicle and you've not got a clue how to. :doh::doh::doh:

Point taken. But if I never try, I will never learn.

Same as any other brake pads. Pop off the wheel, split the calliper (one or two bolts usually) so you can pop out the old pads. You'll need to push back the pistons. There are correct tools to do this, or you can do it with a large set of sliding pliers*. Clean up the area where the pads will be seated (wire brush), add a dash of copper slip, place new pads**, reassemble callipers. Press the brake peddal a few times so the pistons are just touching the new pads in place, refit road wheel and take it for a test drive.

* You will want to remove the brake fluid reservoir lid and place a cloth around it to catch any brake fluid that is forced out. Top up as needed after you're done.

** Some times you get little metal shims on the old pads that aren't there on the new ones. These are there to stop squealing. Transfer them over.

The wear sensor is a inbuilt tool. The most common way I've seen it done is you have a wire going through the pad, as you wear the pads you'll eventually expose the wire which breaks the circuit and flags up a warning on your dash.

It might also be worth checking the condition of the discs before you order anything, if they are looking a bit tired, get a discs and pads set.

Take the old ones out, put the new ones in ...

Thanks for that Bix, was thinking of using a g clamp to push the piston back. My mate had a quick at the discs, which are fine at the moment. I've for a full set of delphi pads and plenty of copper grease so good to go.

Front or rear brake pads?

Do you have the brembo calipers on the front?

You will need to replace the wear sensors.
You will also need to check the slider pins to see if they are seized also the calipers!!!!

If the rear discs need changing then you will need to put the handbrake into service mode to stop it applying the handbrake if it is an electric one. Also you will need to de-adjust the shoes and re-adjust once new disc is fitted then you will need to bed the handbrake In and also make sure it doesnt bind and heats the disc up.

If you dont know how to do it get a mate to lend you a hand if they know how to that is.

You will want to place a bit of wood between the piston and the clamp. Just protect it from getting damaged.

Not too much copper slip either, just a touch to give them something to slide around in. Ideally you want to make sure none gets on the discs.

the wear sensor is a seperate item there are 2 one front one back cant remember which sides they go on think its front passenger and rear driver ,but it is opposite corners the wear sensors are a around a fiver off ebay or 3 times that from the stealers (different ones for front and back) and plug into the same little box that the plug for the abs sensor is in under the arch liner,and the sensor end plugs into a little notch in the brake pad backing , while the pads are out put a block of wood in the caliper and press your pedal then push the piston back a few times to get the piston moving as they can bind a bit , changing pads is an easy job,as described by bix, its worth giving the caliper bolts a good clean and spot of grease aswell.

Caliper bolts should be changed as there are lock tight on them its always good practice to change them.

Caliper slide bolts are fecking tight....can be reused aslong as there is no pitting or corrosion, replace with loctite if you have some.

You will have to replace the wear sensor too...

You can push the piston back with the bleed screw closed, but I usually open the bleed screwpush the piston back and then close the bleed screw again....top up the fluid resevoir afterwards.....as Bix suggests use a small block of wood and a G Clamp.

Getting the clamp/rattle springs back can be fiddly but nothing a bit of patience wouldn't handle at times.

Real simple, was the first job I did on mine.....didn't so a How To as I forgot!

Lever off retaining Spring
2 Caliper Slide Bolts (7mm Allen Key IIRC)
Withdraw
Lever pads off disc to make removing carrier easier
Slide carrier off disc, remove pads
Remove Wear sensor with long nose pliers
Push Piston back
Fit new wear sensor to pad
Fit new pads using anti squeal paste/Copper Grease
Put Carrier back onto disc
Fit Slide Bolts
Fit Retaining Springs

Saint.V8 said:

Caliper slide bolts are fecking tight....can be reused aslong as there is no pitting or corrosion, replace with loctite if you have some.

You will have to replace the wear sensor too...

You can push the piston back with the bleed screw closed, but I usually open the bleed screwpush the piston back and then close the bleed screw again....top up the fluid resevoir afterwards.....as Bix suggests use a small block of wood and a G Clamp.

Getting the clamp/rattle springs back can be fiddly but nothing a bit of patience wouldn't handle at times.

Real simple, was the first job I did on mine.....didn't so a How To as I forgot!

Lever off retaining Spring
2 Caliper Slide Bolts (7mm Allen Key IIRC)
Withdraw
Lever pads off disc to make removing carrier easier
Slide carrier off disc, remove pads
Remove Wear sensor with long nose pliers
Push Piston back
Fit new wear sensor to pad
Fit new pads using anti squeal paste/Copper Grease
Put Carrier back onto disc
Fit Slide Bolts
Fit Retaining Springs

Click to expand...

Or an old pad.

wammers said:

Or an old pad.

Click to expand...

That too.....whats it like outside the box Tony?

Cheers guys!
Guess I won't be doing it today then, as I was under the impression that the wear sensors could be reused. As mine is an 02, I don't think there is the complication of electronic handbrake.

Nope no EPB on yours...

The wear sensors are a small black plastic thing that contains a wire loop that sits in the friction surface of the pad, as the friction material wears away the plastic casing on the wear sensor wears similarly....as the wear gets more, the wire loop inside gets exposed and then the wire wears away too cutting the wire breaking the circuit and issuing the warning....

Or it could be the plastic wears exposing two contacts which when the pad is pushed against the disc, a circuit is made issuing the warning....
Either way, the wear sensors need replacing....

Can't remember if mine came with the pads or if I purchased seperatly.....I am sure they came with the pads....but not 100% positive!

hmmm... just opened up the box with the Delphi pads in, they don't seem to have the wear sensors in. Will have a look on the net. Also what is the consensus on the caliper bolts, shall I get some of these when ordering the sensors?

KernowSam said:

hmmm... just opened up the box with the Delphi pads in, they don't seem to have the wear sensors in. Will have a look on the net. Also what is the consensus on the caliper bolts, shall I get some of these when ordering the sensors?

Click to expand...

I reused mine....no problems....RAVE doesn't indicate replacement so never did...

The only time I replaced caliper bolts were if they were actual bolts...these are just slide bolts that allow the pad/piston block to move in order to clamp the pads to the disc under breaking...they don't actually bolt anything to anything....aslong as the rubber grommets are in place to protect the slide bolts, they shouldn't be corroded or pitted to point of replacement...