Anderson connectors

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Mr S1

Mr S1

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,364
Location
Surrey / Sussex borders
Looking to fit an Anderson connector into the Defender, as looking to change the seats to the fixed in variety. Running a 680 cranking amp battery, so what capacity connector do i need ? Easy to connect up ? Where would it feed through to so I can connect up to it ? All advice (and pictures !) most welcome !

Fankoo :cool: :D
 
Go for the 175Amp ones, not too hard to fit, I just drilled two holes in the front of the seat box and used two 20mm flange seals.
 
Snap! 175amp black Anderson connector, drilled two holes in the seatbox for the battery cable, then two holes for the connector.

I did have to space the connector away from the seatbox so I could actually connect another anderson to it! Best way is connect two together and see how much to need to space it off.

I covered the battery cable in black heat shrink as well to hide the colours, make it blend in a bit more. Finished off with a solid plastic cap.

Bit of advice either use rivnuts to hold it in or if you do nut and bolt it use some nice wide nuts as trying to bend your arm inside that box trying to fix some tiny nuts to some bolts is a pita to say the least!
 
@Kwakerman @bankz5152 Can you put up a pic of yours fitted? I've been needing to do this for a while since changing seats but not savy on electrickery at all. If I fit an Anderson plug for jumpstarting, I would assume I need a set of leads adapted to fit the socket ??
 
I cant post up pics from home as ive not got a compooter! Just me phone but i can post em up tomorrow!

Its really simple to do though. Buy a set of 175amp andersons in red, then buy one in black as well as a set of jump leads.

Cut the jump leads close to one end and fit the red andersons, means you can connect your truck and use jump leads as normal if needed. Good tip, fill the metal anderson connector bit with solder and heat with a blow torch until molten then jam your cable in! Makes for a pretty solid connection.

The black anderson is for the seat box. All you need is about 1ft (or more if you wanna fit the anderson elsewhere) and some ring terminals that will fit your battery connection.

Drill a few holes to mount it (rivnuts make for easy installation) and away you go! Best to buy a cover for the seatbox anderson, keep the connector protected.

lol didnt realise ive already posted here haha
 
just found this on u tube @Mr S1

pretty sure i've got some spare new battery cable in the shed that u can have , around a foot long each , in black and red

 
Last edited:
gstuart said:
is this kit ok ,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANDERSON-...TARTER-KIT-BATTERY-SLAVE-ASSIST-/351938505099
Click to expand...
That kit is exactly the same as the one in the video. Obviously crimping the plugs to the ends of the cable would be superior, but they're 50 square mil cable sockets so I doubt if you'd have a crimping tool to do that, the one I have will only do 35 sq.mil. so it looks like you're into the solder method.
One point to note, you're not plumbing water pipework, so you'd be better using proper electrical solder, 60/40 lead tin with a resin based flux. "Multicore" solder about 2.5 mm diameter. Safety first, always wash your hands well after using lead based solder.
 
brian47 said:
That kit is exactly the same as the one in the video. Obviously crimping the plugs to the ends of the cable would be superior, but they're 50 square mil cable sockets so I doubt if you'd have a crimping tool to do that, the one I have will only do 35 sq.mil. so it looks like you're into the solder method.
One point to note, you're not plumbing water pipework, so you'd be better using proper electrical solder, 60/40 lead tin with a resin based flux. "Multicore" solder about 2.5 mm diameter. Safety first, always wash your hands well after using lead based solder.
Click to expand...

funny enough i've never done that regarding plumbers solder, always used the correct electrical solder , haven't seen a lead based electrical solder for a while , always have the flux solder :D
 
brian47 said:
It is quite freely available:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.X60/40.TRS0&_nkw=60+40+solder&_sacat=0
Lead free plumbing solder will glue the metal bits together, but using the proper materials makes for a proper job!
Click to expand...


thks , just had another look, blimey i need new contacts , this is the one i've got

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20G-TUBE-...304553&hash=item2a3f6bce28:g:w-4AAMXQL99Sbs3f

am a stickler when soldering joints, same when i had to do soldering on pcbs on boilers etc, doing the job once and right

ref plumbing did u find it a lot harder soldering pipes with lead free , doesn't run as well as the older leaded solder
 
gstuart said:
ref plumbing did u find it a lot harder soldering pipes with lead free , doesn't run as well as the older leaded solder
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have found that it doesn't flow like 60/40 stuff. The secret I've found is absolute cleanliness, wire wool to shine up every part then a good coat of a paste flux on all the surfaces. Heat with a lamp until the flame goes green then apply the solder. If necessary push the molten solder around the joint with a moleskin.
If all else fails try using tallow as a flux, stinks to high heaven but does the job. That's the stuff I learned to do plumbing type wiped joints on lead sheathed cables with would you believe dry paper insulation on each wire. Not easy.
 
brian47 said:
Yeah, I have found that it doesn't flow like 60/40 stuff. The secret I've found is absolute cleanliness, wire wool to shine up every part then a good coat of a paste flux on all the surfaces. Heat with a lamp until the flame goes green then apply the solder. If necessary push the molten solder around the joint with a moleskin.
If all else fails try using tallow as a flux, stinks to high heaven but does the job. That's the stuff I learned to do plumbing type wiped joints on lead sheathed cables with would you believe dry paper insulation on each wire. Not easy.
Click to expand...

they were indeed hard in getting the lead joint water tight , as an apprentice i tinned the brass insert but the lad would go cold to quick, took a few years to get it right , then leadlocs came along , made me laugh as on the packet it said not to be buried , water mains was around 7/8 i lbs if the memory works, lol

agree the fitting has to be clean along with having enough heat in the fitting, but not cremating it

useto drive me nuts when a fitting was vertical and saw solder running down the pipe , is so easy to avoid that happening

u also mentioning about lead joints, do u remember the old way mains electrical joints were done in the road with lead, defiantly an art form way some the sparks useto do that , two helpers with giant burners either side , tallow smell was nice, lol

alas though it seems to be going towards pushfit now , seen so many diy installation where they thought it was ok to pipe the boiler up with pushfit and plastic pipe
 
Kit came.....without handle and fixings. I checked the site and I definitely ordered the correct one. No worries as I can wait for it.
 
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