And again!!

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flossdog

flossdog

New Member
Posts
93
Location
Bulgaria
Battery died a few days ago....charging at 14.5+ . New battery fitted and all seemed well until last night on a Spanish motorway when it died again. towed to Land Rover (well there was a sticker on the wall saying that) Battery again.!!
No choice but to buy another new one at 130E plus 50E to fit....**** take..
Anyway 150klms last night no probs with lights on and another 200 today BUt it seems to be playing up again..Battery showing 12.8 and 14.5 on start up.
I just cant trust this car and it has to go but would like to put it right first. Any ideas guys...
Looking at a 2001 this afternon and just hope its more reliable than this one....
 
flossdog said:
Battery died a few days ago....charging at 14.5+ . New battery fitted and all seemed well until last night on a Spanish motorway when it died again. towed to Land Rover (well there was a sticker on the wall saying that) Battery again.!!
No choice but to buy another new one at 130E plus 50E to fit....**** take..
Anyway 150klms last night no probs with lights on and another 200 today BUt it seems to be playing up again..Battery showing 12.8 and 14.5 on start up.
I just cant trust this car and it has to go but would like to put it right first. Any ideas guys...
Looking at a 2001 this afternon and just hope its more reliable than this one....
Click to expand...
Alternator by the sounds of it or bad connections.
 
hi , alternator ?
alternator loose ?
fan belt loose ?
tensioner ?
r.f. receiver ?
fuse box ?
terminal connectors loose check both ends ???

are you in aa or rac etc etc ???
 
did you not check it all out before going on a long trip ?????????? what p38 is it ???? year engine etc etc whearabouts are you now possible contacts over there could put it on diagnostics for you ??????????? cheers mozz
 
Datatek said:
Alternator by the sounds of it or bad connections.
Click to expand...

It seems that way but everything checks out.....showing 14.5+ but when the car dies the battery reads just over 11.
When started and running with the neg lead off its runs fine but when its put back on it seems to put a massive demand on the alternator. Of course, its trying to charge the battery hence the load but it does seem excessive.
Cant be unlucky enough to have bought 2 bad batteries!! Then again......
 
mozz smith said:
did you not check it all out before going on a long trip ?????????? what p38 is it ???? year engine etc etc whearabouts are you now possible contacts over there could put it on diagnostics for you ??????????? cheers mozz
Click to expand...

Hi Mozz. It was all fine before I set off and ran fine with the new battery for a couple of days. 1997 4.6Hse.
Nothing seems to be wrong...nothing on diagnostics...runs fine then suddenly kills the battery.
Got it recovered from the motorway but ,of course ,they wouldnt accept my breakdown cover...wrong telephone number...not. It was only 60E though.
Im now back south of Valencia as Ive all but given up on this car. No worries if on my own but with my Mrs and 3 dogs its just too iffy..The dogs were less than happy in the car on the back of the truck:)
 
flossdog said:
It seems that way but everything checks out.....showing 14.5+ but when the car dies the battery reads just over 11.
When started and running with the neg lead off its runs fine but when its put back on it seems to put a massive demand on the alternator. Of course, its trying to charge the battery hence the load but it does seem excessive.
Cant be unlucky enough to have bought 2 bad batteries!! Then again......
Click to expand...

Correct me if I'm wrong but I was always told NOT to disconnect the battery when the engine is running, it will feck your alternator. There may lie a clue to your problem:)
 
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Dont know if it matters but after speedo and rev counter stopped working and TC ABS lights came on the car still ran for a few mins then temp needle went through the roof.
The engine wasnt at all hot though??
 
tomcat59alan said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but I was always told NOT to disconnect the battery when the engine is running, it will feck your alternator. There may lie a clue to your problem:)
Click to expand...

Land rover did it yesterday...problem was already there. dont know about RRs but I have disconnected dozens as a quick check if charging and not one had a problem..
 
flossdog said:
It seems that way but everything checks out.....showing 14.5+ but when the car dies the battery reads just over 11.
When started and running with the neg lead off its runs fine but when its put back on it seems to put a massive demand on the alternator. Of course, its trying to charge the battery hence the load but it does seem excessive.
Cant be unlucky enough to have bought 2 bad batteries!! Then again......
Click to expand...

tomcat59alan said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but I was always told NOT to disconnect the battery when the engine is running, it will feck your alternator. There may lie a clue to your problem:)
Click to expand...
Disconnecting the battery with the engine running can not only damage the alternator regulator but feck the car's ECU's as well. Been to many boats where the main isolator was turned off with the engine running causing alternator failure.

A large load would be normal into a flat or defective battery, up to 150 amps for a short time until battery voltage recovers.
If you only had 11 volts on the battery, either the battery is fecked, or more likely the alternator. It's possible for a defective alternator to cook a battery.
 
Bit like that stupid idea of connecting your battery with the ignition key in possition 2.

Whenever you read a post you will see that your location is not shown (as last thread blower motors) why not put it in (top right of each post) so we don't have to keep asking you!
 
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stopover said:
Bit like that stupid idea of connecting your battery with the ignition key in possition 2.

Whenever you read a post you will see that your location is not shown (as last thread blower motors) why not put it in (top right of each post) so we don't have to keep asking you!
Click to expand...

He is in Spain, think he wants to keep it a secret:)
 
stopover said:
Bit like that stupid idea of connecting your battery with the ignition key in possition 2.

Whenever you read a post you will see that your location is not shown (as last thread blower motors) why not put it in (top right of each post) so we don't have to keep asking you!
Click to expand...

Yeah ....that stupid idea I got from somebody who said it would resynch the ecu and BeCM !! Now I dont know the rights and wrongs if this bit I DO know the car started afterwards so maybe not such a stupid idea:cool:
 
Datatek said:
Disconnecting the battery with the engine running can not only damage the alternator regulator but feck the car's ECU's as well. Been to many boats where the main isolator was turned off with the engine running causing alternator failure.

A large load would be normal into a flat or defective battery, up to 150 amps for a short time until battery voltage recovers.
If you only had 11 volts on the battery, either the battery is fecked, or more likely the alternator. It's possible for a defective alternator to cook a battery.
Click to expand...

The battery reads 11v when the car conks out and engine is stopped, Alternator is putting out 14.5V so not likely to cook the battery but Im wondering if it suddenly starts to overcharge while running..
Im going to rig up a digital voltmeter so I can keep an eye on it while driving.
Been driving it regularly and it seems fine:)

I went to see 2001 HSE for sale here at 2K. A dog with bad tyres, early back lights , AC not working, shot front wheel bearing and a "loose" sounding engine. It was much quicker than mine though.......down to the later engine maybe? Didnt buy it.
 
flossdog said:
The battery reads 11v when the car conks out and engine is stopped, Alternator is putting out 14.5V so not likely to cook the battery but Im wondering if it suddenly starts to overcharge while running..
Im going to rig up a digital voltmeter so I can keep an eye on it while driving.
Been driving it regularly and it seems fine:)

I went to see 2001 HSE for sale here at 2K. A dog with bad tyres, early back lights , AC not working, shot front wheel bearing and a "loose" sounding engine. It was much quicker than mine though.......down to the later engine maybe? Didnt buy it.
Click to expand...
If the battery reads 11 volts when it stops, either the alternator is not charging or the battery is fecked.
First off, if the alternator is standard, ir should read 14.2 volts not 14.5, it's possible there is a diode or regulator failing with temperature, a shorted diode will rapidly drain the battery and may stop the car.
The Higher than normal voltage may also be an indication of problems, for example there may be an AC component to the alternator output that you cannot see with a DVM.
If the regulator has failed in a mode where the output is uncontrolled, the battery can overheat and the plates buckle knackering the battery.
Sticking new batteries on it without a full check of the alternator with a scope is just chucking money away, no good blaming the car.
 
Datatek said:
If the battery reads 11 volts when it stops, either the alternator is not charging or the battery is fecked.
First off, if the alternator is standard, ir should read 14.2 volts not 14.5, it's possible there is a diode or regulator failing with temperature, a shorted diode will rapidly drain the battery and may stop the car.
The Higher than normal voltage may also be an indication of problems, for example there may be an AC component to the alternator output that you cannot see with a DVM.
If the regulator has failed in a mode where the output is uncontrolled, the battery can overheat and the plates buckle knackering the battery.
Sticking new batteries on it without a full check of the alternator with a scope is just chucking money away, no good blaming the car.
Click to expand...

It does seem like it must be something along those lines but I thought 14.5 was ok? I based this on another post by yourself quote "Sorry Wammers, the output voltage of an alternator is fixed by the regulator at around 14.2 to 14.8 volts"
Like I say Im rigging up a voltmeter so I can see whats going on. I have 3 batteries now which ALL take a charge. Also got a small genny onboard so Im going to keep driving and swap batteries if I have to hope I get to my destination. Costing me 150E a day to stay here!!
 
flossdog said:
It does seem like it must be something along those lines but I thought 14.5 was ok? I based this on another post by yourself quote "Sorry Wammers, the output voltage of an alternator is fixed by the regulator at around 14.2 to 14.8 volts"
Like I say Im rigging up a voltmeter so I can see whats going on. I have 3 batteries now which ALL take a charge. Also got a small genny onboard so Im going to keep driving and swap batteries if I have to hope I get to my destination. Costing me 150E a day to stay here!!
Click to expand...
Wammers did indeed say that and 14.2 to 14.8 volts is OK assuming the alternator is OK, that doesn't alter the fact that the standard voltage for the P38 alternator is 14.2 volts as far as I'm aware. Of course it could have had a new regulator with a higher voltage.
 
Datatek said:
Wammers did indeed say that and 14.2 to 14.8 volts is OK assuming the alternator is OK, that doesn't alter the fact that the standard voltage for the P38 alternator is 14.2 volts as far as I'm aware. Of course it could have had a new regulator with a higher voltage.
Click to expand...

Alternator voltage for P38 is regulated to 14.2 volts other than the 4.6 fitted with the 150 AMP unit which is regulated to 14.5 volts. I don't think i have ever said 14.8 volts was correct for the P38. You said that not me. Maximum regulated voltage for any P38 is 14.5 but only if fitted with the 150 AMP alternator..
 
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wammers said:
Alternator voltage for P38 is regulated to 14.2 volts other than the 4.6 fitted with the 150 AMP unit which is regulated to 14.5 volts. I don't think i have ever said 14.8 volts was correct for the P38. You said that not me. Maximum regulated voltage for any P38 is 14.5 but only if fitted with the 150 AMP alternator..
Click to expand...
I have never said 14.8 is correct for a P38, I have said that up to 14.8 is OK with lead calcium batteries. I've never seen even 14.5 on a P38 but it wouldn't worry me if the alternator is OK.
 
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