Disco 2 Alarm/C Locking help needed!

Hi all, need any advice or help from more knowledgeable disco owners than meself. Ive bought me an 02 TD5 yesterday, love it but it has its few niggly electronics issues need sorting. The 1st and most important being with the alarm. The guy I bought it off let me know it had always kept blowing fuses, so he kept replacing them, the 25a ones. When ive replaced that it can lock and unlock... Brilliant! But, each and everytime I open a door or sit on the seat the alarm goes off until I turn on the ignition or press the lock button on a key. If ive turned on the ignition and turned it off i can open close doors as i please. Alarm wont go off at all until i lock it again. Im not too worried about having to change the fuse on C locking theyre breeding in the dash board. But the alarm going off every time i go to get in the truck int great. Any information ideas or advice would be fantastic, knowing electrical problems are just finding them! Thanks for reading!
Ryan

I think a bit more information is needed here.
When you say it locks and unlocks, what are you using to unlock the vehicle, the button on the keyfob or the key in the door? Have you tried using the other keyfob?
Have you tried using the EKA code? Oh, you don't have the EKA code. You can get the original EKA from any Land Rover main stealer on production of proof of ownership.
When you say the 25 Amp fuse, it's helpful if we know which 25 A fuse, there are two fuse boards on the Disco 2.

Hi Ryan,

First thing, do you have the EKA code?
Before you end up with a serious problem it would be worth your while making sure it is correct and it works.
Other than that , it may be worth looking at what the alarm settings are on nanocom, But I suspect you have a rogue short somewhere causing the fuse to blow.

Cheers

Also do you have the owners manual / workshop manual?

If not then you can download it here :

rave01.iso is the file you need to download.

http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/

Cheers

Hi guys thanks for the quick replies, all alarm stuff is new to me so i will get back to you asap with all of those things. I use the key to unlock it and can use either the key or fob on the key to lock it and/or silence the alarm, then if im sitting in it and havent turned on the ignition yet it will go off every 15 or so seconds. The key only has a lock button and a land rover button with no use, at least no unlock symbol. The other key is snapped but is the same. Pics to follow. The fuse is F1 25a under the steering wheel. When opening truck i turn the key once for driver, twice for passengers and a third for boot. My limits are not habing anything to compare to so dont know what else/should shouldnt work yet, only have a series 3..

OK Ryan,

normally the D2 is set to NOT stop the alarm using the key in the door lock. Fob should in normal settings switch alarm off.

However this can be changed , at least with a nanocom , so that the key can turn the alarm off as well as the Fob.

The Landrover symbol is the unlock button, does the redlight on the fob show up if either are pressed?

Download the rave file it has the owners manual.

cheers

If using the fob to unlock , press "LR" button ( little red light on key fob will light) normally the indicators flash once , drivers door will unlock and you can get in to start the car.

Does this happen?

Cheers

Right. The alarm seems to be doing what it's supposed to do. You're not allowed to just unlock the vehicle with the key and just jump in, that's why you need the Emergency Key Access (EKA) code.
There are two buttons on the fob; the little round one which locks the vehicle and the oval Land Rover button which is used to unlock the vehicle and turn off the alarm. In its default set up, you press it once to unlock the driver's door and a second time to unlock the other doors. Since it appears that you can lock the vehicle from the fob, the radio side of things seem to be working, but the actual unlock button in the fob might be faulty.
You say that both fobs are the same which suggests that it might be a problem with the vehicle rather than with the fobs so at this point it's important that we know what happens if you press the unlock (Land Rover) button twice.
Meanwhile I'll dig into the cct diags to see what I can figure out about your fuse blowing.

brian47 said:

Right. The alarm seems to be doing what it's supposed to do. You're not allowed to just unlock the vehicle with the key and just jump in, that's why you need the Emergency Key Access (EKA) code.
There are two buttons on the fob; the little round one which locks the vehicle and the oval Land Rover button which is used to unlock the vehicle and turn off the alarm. In its default set up, you press it once to unlock the driver's door and a second time to unlock the other doors. Since it appears that you can lock the vehicle from the fob, the radio side of things seem to be working, but the actual unlock button in the fob might be faulty.
You say that both fobs are the same which suggests that it might be a problem with the vehicle rather than with the fobs so at this point it's important that we know what happens if you press the unlock (Land Rover) button twice.
Meanwhile I'll dig into the cct diags to see what I can figure out about your fuse blowing.

Click to expand...

neilly said:

If using the fob to unlock , press "LR" button ( little red light on key fob will light) normally the indicators flash once , drivers door will unlock and you can get in to start the car.

Does this happen?

Cheers

Click to expand...

Right on both fobs the unlock button is not working, and no red light when pressing the LR, but the button doesnt feel very existent, especially in the good one. Making me reckon that just the buttons are buggered. This would be the easy solution its starting to make more sense now. But if it means getting new keys/fobs isnt that a bit of a task/cost? May have to suck it up but if it kills the idea that there is actually a fault present in the truck. Excuse my getting to grips with the truck and the EKA business
Will grab that manual too now

Hi Ryan,

You can get a new key from these guys http://www.remotekey.co.uk/land-rover/land-rover-discovery-ii-discovery-series-2-year-1999-to-2006/

Or get your key refurbished from these guys. http://keys2u.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=91

Other people are available , I have not used either , so cannot vouch for them. I got 2nd hand keys from bay of e and reprogrammed them using the nanocom.

Try popping the fobs open and seeing if the switches are fubarred.

Hopefully @brian47 will be along shortly to let you knwo more about the circuit diagram.

Cheers

You can get repair kits for the fobs which include a replacement shell and a pair of tiny switches, but you're going to have to be pretty good with a soldering iron to change them.
There are also places where you can send your fobs to get them repaired, but then you'll have to do that one at a time.
Replacement key blades are a different kettle of fish. I've tried a few local locksmiths and none of them managed to copy a key successfully. There is a bloke on the bay who reckons he can do it from a photograph.
You local Land Rover main stealer will be able to give you the actual number for a replacement key but a LR replacement key is going to be big bucks.
Until we get the fobs working as they should, we're not going to be able to proceed properly with the fuse since that's only feeding the door lock motors.

I have had keyblades done at an independent shoesmith, keyblades was purchased from the bay of e. But they did stipulate they did not guarantee the work as they did not supply the blade. The way I got around this was to have them supply a normal blank key and cut it, attach the key to the fob on a key ring. If it does not work then take it back and get them to recut another.

If you know someone local to you with a nanocom , then they can program a spare fob, if you can get a cheap 2nd hand one. If you are going to be over Banbury way in the near future then I could do it FOC.

Cheers

brian47 said:

You can get repair kits for the fobs which include a replacement shell and a pair of tiny switches, but you're going to have to be pretty good with a soldering iron to change them.
There are also places where you can send your fobs to get them repaired, but then you'll have to do that one at a time.
Replacement key blades are a different kettle of fish. I've tried a few local locksmiths and none of them managed to copy a key successfully. There is a bloke on the bay who reckons he can do it from a photograph.
You local Land Rover main stealer will be able to give you the actual number for a replacement key but a LR replacement key is going to be big bucks.
Until we get the fobs working as they should, we're not going to be able to proceed properly with the fuse since that's only feeding the door lock motors.

Click to expand...

neilly said:

I have had keyblades done at an independent shoesmith, keyblades was purchased from the bay of e. But they did stipulate they did not guarantee the work as they did not supply the blade. The way I got around this was to have them supply a normal blank key and cut it, attach the key to the fob on a key ring. If it does not work then take it back and get them to recut another.

If you know someone local to you with a nanocom , then they can program a spare fob, if you can get a cheap 2nd hand one. If you are going to be over Banbury way in the near future then I could do it FOC.

Cheers

Click to expand...

Thanks again fellas really appreciated, i will plan today and work out best and cheapest way for me to get around it and sort my keys out, if the 2nd wasnt snapped thered be no problem. Once thats sorted i will look at the fuse for c lockin. Will keep posted.
Thanks,
Ryan

I had mine refurbed recently £14 2 day turnaround, replaced the switches and battery.
The key blade is easy enough removed from the remote, if you just send the remote and fit the blade to your other one

Who did yours @biggeeeee ?

Cheers

neilly said:

Who did yours @biggeeeee ?

Cheers

Click to expand...

Remote Specialist Ltd
Unit 6
Kirby Estate
Trout Road West Drayton Middlesex UB7 7RU
01895 440 320

I got them off Ebay
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/carspares24?_rdc=1

Just nipped out in it and was sat at the side of the road for a while as it had totally immobilised. Think its still a key issue. It happened yesterday once too, ignition would light up then no crank at all then everything would go dead, even the hazards wouldnt light up. Finally dis and reconnected battery and it went. Kind of conveniently happened right outside my local garage as took GF to see a car haha! not that they could do nout

Just to check ,

Open your keyfob and see if it has the immobiliser chip on the PCB.

see photo, number one has the chip, number does not. Although it does sound like you have more serious issues with something communicating / shorting.

biggeeeee said:

I had mine refurbed recently £14 2 day turnaround, replaced the switches and battery.
The key blade is easy enough removed from the remote, if you just send the remote and fit the blade to your other one

Click to expand...

I will look at that but was wondering if anyone knew of a proximity issue with the fob, as twice now its totally immobilised possibly because of not opening it by switch and/or a faulty fob. I think i will order a new one as one has snapped, then get my current one re done, to make certain i have a fully functioning one