Air leak

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Hmmm.... mixed success this weekend. Firstly, I replaced the compressor seals. Wow, what a difference. Compressor comes on then stays off for ages. Only coming on again after playing with the height settings.

Today I did the valve block seals and diaphram - I thought, why not, lets do the lot.

However, now the compressor is staying on. How long does it take to fill after depressurising? I thought 10 mins, but its felt like longer so far. I've given up a couple of times and turned the engine off and shut the tail gate. It's not sinking on any corner. Of course I've not left it over night yet, but I figure if I had a bad leak, it'd sink quickly.

What could I have missed/done that would cause the compressor to run all the time without any corners sinking? Or can it take a lot longer than 10 mins to fill?

Nik
 
So have you checked the pipe to air tank for leaks from valve block to air tank check when running that no air is comming out of exhust filter on valve block if so diaphragm leak remember it only goes in one way .
 
Oh, pipes 3 and 4 were reversed in the block by the way. I've put them back the right way. But would it matter? Should I put them back the way they were ie 3 in to 4 and vice versa?

tnx
 
defender300td1 said:
So have you checked the pipe to air tank for leaks from valve block to air tank check when running that no air is comming out of exhust filter on valve block if so diaphragm leak remember it only goes in one way .
Click to expand...

Doing that now with soapy water. I can get it to normal height either at the moment. Its sat there flashing away....
 
NikTheGeek said:
Oh, pipes 3 and 4 were reversed in the block by the way. I've put them back the right way. But would it matter? Should I put them back the way they were ie 3 in to 4 and vice versa?

tnx
Click to expand...

Well if say 3/4 were rears then yes as the sensor would say pump rear left and rear right would increase .
 
If you check this photo you can ensure all pipes are in the correct order:)

CB1E84CA-3335-447C-8030-9D47DA94AD1D-4200-00000463D9310D42.jpg
 
No leaks at the air pipes. All in the correct order. The are labelled on the plastic casing anyway. If its not dropping on a particular corner, I guess it must be the inlet?? I'll take it off to make sure the o rings are trapped...
 
NikTheGeek said:
Hmmm.... mixed success this weekend. Firstly, I replaced the compressor seals. Wow, what a difference. Compressor comes on then stays off for ages. Only coming on again after playing with the height settings.

Today I did the valve block seals and diaphram - I thought, why not, lets do the lot.

However, now the compressor is staying on. How long does it take to fill after depressurising? I thought 10 mins, but its felt like longer so far. I've given up a couple of times and turned the engine off and shut the tail gate. It's not sinking on any corner. Of course I've not left it over night yet, but I figure if I had a bad leak, it'd sink quickly.

What could I have missed/done that would cause the compressor to run all the time without any corners sinking? Or can it take a lot longer than 10 mins to fill?

Nik
Click to expand...

So you got the compressor to produce 'good' air and the system worked. Then you re-furbished the valve block and now the compressor, that we now know is working well, is running for too long. Is that correct?

If so then you have a leak on the supply side. Start by checking the exhaust valve. This should only be open when the compressor is not running. Any leakage from there will give your symptoms. If you can't find anything with soapy water try smoke.
 
To fill tank inlet valve should be open diagram open when tanks full should stop via pressure switch ,then diagpham valve opens with whatever bag valves are being inflated.when the need to lower exhust valve opens plus what ever bag vales that need to lower if you go on live diagnotics you can make sure the correct valves are opening closing ect to see what's going on
 
I was wondering: if pipes 3 and 4 were reversed on the block, are the solenoids reversed. ie was someone trying to fix a bodged repair. They've refurbished the block, realised the solenoids were on wrong and rather than take it all apart, just swapped the pipes. Its what I'd do :)

I might try swapping them back around to see what happens. Or look for the solenoid wiring diagram to see which one is which on the multiplug
 
No need with your namcom you can open any valve and check to see if the correct one is incorect on block.
For instance open exhust rear right ect that will go down or front right bag valve and diagpham valve should inflate on command and so on
 
Last edited:
defender300td1 said:
To fill tank inlet valve should be open diagram open when tanks full should stop via pressure switch ,then diagpham valve opens with whatever bag valves are being inflated.when the need to lower exhust valve opens plus what ever bag vales that need to lower if you go on live diagnotics you can make sure the correct valves are opening closing ect to see what's going on
Click to expand...

Nope. Inlet valve not involved at all when tank is being filled. Diaphragm valve must be closed to fill tank. Diaphragm valve has nothing to do with filling bags.
 
[MAP][/MAP]
wammers said:
Nope. Inlet valve not involved at all when tank is being filled. Diaphragm valve must be closed to fill tank. Diaphragm valve has nothing to do with filling bags.
Click to expand...
Ok sorry strait to tank inlet for bags ect combined with whatever bag valve.
 
wammers said:
Nope. Inlet valve not involved at all when tank is being filled. Diaphragm valve must be closed to fill tank. Diaphragm valve has nothing to do with filling bags.
Click to expand...

Bugger, I changed the diaphragm. I bet I've not done that one right. Although it only seemed to go one way round to make sense. Rubber side up in to the block, aluminium face against the spring? Thats the way I did it anyway. I've kept the old one. I could swap back I suppose...

Nik
 
NikTheGeek said:
Bugger, I changed the diaphragm. I bet I've not done that one right. Although it only seemed to go one way round to make sense. Rubber side up in to the block, aluminium face against the spring? Thats the way I did it anyway. I've kept the old one. I could swap back I suppose...

Nik
Click to expand...

Diaphragm is correct way round. Diaphragm CANNOT cause suspension to drop. When compressor starts diaphragm solenoid valve is activated supplying air pressure to under side of diaphragm sealing exhaust port. Air then travels trough drier and past NRV1 then to tank via Violet coded pipe in block. When pressure is reached, compressor switches off and solenoid valve closes exhausting the air holding the diaphragm shut through the 4mm pipe into the harness. HP air is then exhausted past diaphragm valve out of exhaust port. Leaving galley free for it's exhaust function. Air CANNOT be exhausted from bags if compressor is running. Filling and exhaust use the same gallery. If you follow the instructions in my "How To" you should be able to determine if you have a corner solenoid leaking.
 
It was the diaphragm. I removed it and put the old one back and the suspension tank filled and after 10 mins or so, the compressor cut out and it would then lift ok. So I guess I got a dodgy diaphragm!!

Thanks all

Nik

P.S. Just to clarify to anyone reading, the suspension wasn't dropping after the valve block refurb, it was stuck on the bump stops and not raising at all no matter how long I waited.
 
Glad you got it sorted what do you think is wrong with the diaphragm you sure you put in the right way :) thought that from my first post after your weekend of fiddling :eek:
 
NikTheGeek said:
It was the diaphragm. I removed it and put the old one back and the suspension tank filled and after 10 mins or so, the compressor cut out and it would then lift ok. So I guess I got a dodgy diaphragm!!

Thanks all

Nik

P.S. Just to clarify to anyone reading, the suspension wasn't dropping after the valve block refurb, it was stuck on the bump stops and not raising at all no matter how long I waited.
Click to expand...

Or fitted it the wrong way up. :D:D:D
 
defender300td1 said:
Glad you got it sorted what do you think is wrong with the diaphragm you sure you put in the right way :) thought that from my first post after your weekend of fiddling :eek:
Click to expand...

I did have it the right way around but the new one was much harder. No give in it when you pressed it. So I guess it was knackered from new or made wrong or something. Which is a shame as every other seal and o-ring is now brand new!!

Nik
 
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