P38A Aaaarrrggghh!

Jon Dor · Nov 20, 2019

Hi guys.
Stupidly flattened battery yesterday and, battery recharged, P38 Thor refuses to start.
Can open doors using remote, but AMBER ENGINE LIGHT illuminated and refuses to start.
I'm due to have Pre-op appointment this afternoon before December spinal surgery.
Kindly advise...sat in car now in a car park hoping to hear from you knowledgeable P38 gurus!
Many thanks.

Kev12 · Nov 20, 2019

I cant help much, but a bit more info may help those that can. I will guess at it being a sync issue
Does the engine crank?
Did you remove battery to charge it or was it charged while still connected?

Jon Dor · Nov 20, 2019

Kev12 said:
I cant help much, but a bit more info may help those that can. I will guess at it being a sync issue
Does the engine crank?
Did you remove battery to charge it or was it charged while still connected?

Car is in a car park so I wasn't allowed to use an extension lead from nearby building, so charged off-car.
Relay clicks, but no cranking. Not getting KEYCODE LOCKOUT message or anything similar.
Highly frustraticated!
Thanks for the response.

Kev12 · Nov 20, 2019

Hopefully someone who knows these well will be along soon. Have you tried in neutral?

Jon Dor · Nov 20, 2019

Hi Kev. Yes tried in neutral as well as park. I can't get under, but a guy with very long arms checked the wire that goes to starter and said not loose. Couple of years ago, that connection was loose giving very similar symptoms to now.
Thanks again.

Dorset_dumpling · Nov 20, 2019

Try with a new battery. Sometimes when an older battery goes completely flat it becomes useless. Have you checked what voltage you are getting off the battery? The other problem is that if one of the plates in the battery has become oxidised or damaged, you can see a healthy voltage but not enough amps to start the engine.

Henry_b · Nov 20, 2019

As said above if the battery was completely drained it is possible it is ****ered.

Jon Dor · Nov 20, 2019

Henry_b said:
As said above if the battery was completely drained it is possible it is ****ered.

Battery wasn't COMPLETELY drained, but well below required capacity.
Mozz (a fellow Manc) has been extremely helpful and battery is now on an overnight trickle charge. Will try the protocols he has given me when battery FULLY charged tomorrow. THANKS, MOZZ!

Datatek · Nov 20, 2019

You need to see a minimum of 12.6 volts from the battery.
12 hours on trickle charge will not fully charge a P38 battery.

tomcat59alan · Nov 20, 2019

Jon Dor said:
Battery wasn't COMPLETELY drained, but we'll below required capacity.
Mozz (a fellow Manc) has been extremely helpful and battery is now on an overnight trickle charge. Will try the protocols he has given me when battery FULLY charged tomorrow. THANKS, MOZZ!

Well done Mozz, cake run from Beverly I'm guessing.

Good luck with the opp,Jon.

Jon Dor · Nov 20, 2019

Dorset_dumpling said:
Try with a new battery. Sometimes when an older battery goes completely flat it becomes useless. Have you checked what voltage you are getting off the battery? The other problem is that if one of the plates in the battery has become oxidised or damaged, you can see a healthy voltage but not enough amps to start the engine.

Thanks for the response and advice. Battery is AOK, but I was Stupidly using a 12v compressor for ages without engine running. Its a 1000CCA one and now on trickle charge overnight.

Jon Dor · Nov 20, 2019

Datatek said:
You need to see a minimum of 12.6 volts from the battery.
12 hours on trickle charge will not fully charge a P38 battery.

Cheers, Datatec.
I had it charging at over 12amps for a couple of hours and, after speaking with Mozz, took it home to trickle charge until it hits at least 14.2v
On a separate note, Kurt said to check his integrity out with you ref his New EAS compressors and blocks.
He said you are totally shady....haha!

Jon Dor · Nov 20, 2019

tomcat59alan said:
Well done Mozz, cake run from Beverly I'm guessing. Good luck with the opp,Jon.

I've suggested a pint or three when I'm next over that way...if his health/meds allow that.
Great to hear his sweet, dulcit tones...I'm a Manc too

Grrrrrr · Nov 20, 2019

Jon Dor said:
I've suggested a pint or three when I'm next over that way...if his health/meds allow that.
Great to hear his sweet, dulcit tones...I'm a Manc too

He's a legend at getting these started.

I think the Thor still cranks with loss of sync but not certain. The fuse that does the EAS compressor also does starter so check the big fat maxi fuse in the engine fusebox is all good. If blown disconnect the EAS compressor, replace fuse then try again.

Henry_b · Nov 20, 2019

Grrrrrr said:
He's a legend at getting these started.

I think the Thor still cranks with loss of sync but not certain. The fuse that does the EAS compressor also does starter so check the big fat maxi fuse in the engine fusebox is all good. If blown disconnect the EAS compressor, replace fuse then try again.

No it goes full 'tard like the Gems when it unsyncs

Grrrrrr · Nov 20, 2019

Henry_b said:
No it goes full 'tard like the Gems when it unsyncs

Oh well. Best hope it is fuse then. Or flat battery.

Henry_b · Nov 20, 2019

Grrrrrr said:
Oh well. Best hope it is fuse then. Or flat battery.

Seldom that simple

oakey · Nov 20, 2019

I vouch for Kurt's EAS stuff is the bees knees. Got a block and pump from him, worked a treat and VERY reasonable price. Fast delivery too

RangeRoller dt · Nov 21, 2019

Kurt is our guy for pumps and dirty jokes. Luckily I don’t need one, but if I did ; him I’d go to as a member.

Jon Dor · Nov 21, 2019

Grrrrrr said:
He's a legend at getting these started.

I think the Thor still cranks with loss of sync but not certain. The fuse that does the EAS compressor also does starter so check the big fat maxi fuse in the engine fusebox is all good. If blown disconnect the EAS compressor, replace fuse then try again.

I disconnected the EAS compressor AND checked-out the fuses including the 50-amp rascal. Swapped over relays too...all before Mozz weighed in with his advice.

P38A Aaaarrrggghh!

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